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Old 04-26-2009, 03:09 PM
 
274 posts, read 558,945 times
Reputation: 305
Quote:
Originally Posted by texdav View Post
I'd put some chevron techron in the fuel and run it on the highway because your bound to have some carbon on the valve seat areas because with the regular acting like even lower octane with the EGR system problems.
Running a 20 oz. bottle of CT in it now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by M3 Mitch View Post
Another DIY success story. Putting the lie to that crap "oh, ya can't work on them new computer-controlled carz, yup, yup, gotta take 'er to the deeler" BS, I say.

Wondering if I should go ahead and replace the EGR itself. It's ~ $50. And the uninstall/install looks easy enough. Maybe that will correct the remaining, although slight, hesitation and stuttering when I put my foot in it.
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Old 04-27-2009, 12:51 PM
 
Location: Eastern Washington
8,785 posts, read 22,159,751 times
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Don't "Easter Egg". Figure out what's causing the stumble, then make the repair/adjustment. Don't replace parts hoping to hit the jackpot (what I'm calling Easter Egging)

See if you still have any codes. That costs nothing.

BTW Techron etc. actually work better if you do some short trips, this will allow the intake valves to stay wet with the stuff, where it can do it's thing. You also want to not add any more fuel to the tank till you get down to about 1/4 tank, to avoid diluting the Techron.

The instructions on the Techron bottle do suggest changing oil after a "cleanup dose", you might want to think about doing that.

On most EGR systems, the EGR closes at full throttle, maybe it's sticking partially open, hard to say.
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Old 05-02-2009, 12:31 AM
 
Location: H-town, TX.
1,984 posts, read 2,336,950 times
Reputation: 998
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoot Owl View Post
Running a 20 oz. bottle of CT in it now.




Wondering if I should go ahead and replace the EGR itself. It's ~ $50. And the uninstall/install looks easy enough. Maybe that will correct the remaining, although slight, hesitation and stuttering when I put my foot in it.
No.
Ford EGR valves are quite bulletproof.

If you do get an EGR system code, the DPFE sensor is a bigger culprit. But, don't take that as condoning random part swapping drills. But, it is your money to toss around as you wish...
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Old 05-02-2009, 05:10 AM
 
6,345 posts, read 7,004,621 times
Reputation: 5523
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoot Owl View Post
You were this/close, Mitch. AutoZone ran the codes. P0401. Replaced the DPFE sensor ($51.99) which is part of the EGR system. About a 10 minute job for my inexperienced hands. I would say it fixed 95% of the symptoms. It still hesitates ever so slightly under full load (my foot all the way in the pedal getting on the highway). Good enough for now.

Thanks for the feedback, folks!
DPFE sensor is a very common problem for Ford. Don't forget to check the hoses too. Going back and reading your original post, could it be that you had a tank of bad gas that was cleared up when you filled up with 93 octane?
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Old 05-10-2009, 02:23 PM
 
274 posts, read 558,945 times
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UPDATE: Original problem is back. Got a CEL yesterday. Same code. Hesitating, sluggish. Running 89 octane fuel.

I dunno...
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Old 05-11-2009, 02:14 PM
 
Location: Eastern Washington
8,785 posts, read 22,159,751 times
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It's possible, not likely but possible, that the new part went bad already. No one's QC is 100%.

Can you see the EGR valve, can you tell if it moves as you rev the engine?

All the vacuum hoses good? Particularly the one that hooks up to the EGR actuator?
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Old 05-11-2009, 06:15 PM
 
274 posts, read 558,945 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3 Mitch View Post

All the vacuum hoses good? Particularly the one that hooks up to the EGR actuator?
Excuse my noobness. I know what the EGR is.



Clueless on the actuator.
Thanks.
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Old 05-11-2009, 06:28 PM
 
Location: Eastern Washington
8,785 posts, read 22,159,751 times
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What I'm calling the actuator is the vacuum diaphragm gizmo on the top. The EGR is pretty simple, it's just a valve, a vacuum diaphragm, and a shaft connecting them.

On some EGRs, you can see the shaft move. This one it looks like you will need a small inspection mirror at least, to see the shaft, if it can be seen from outside the valve at all.

What little I can see of the vacuum hoses, they look OK in the picture.
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Old 05-19-2009, 01:09 PM
 
274 posts, read 558,945 times
Reputation: 305
Quote:
Originally Posted by M3 Mitch View Post
What I'm calling the actuator is the vacuum diaphragm gizmo on the top. The EGR is pretty simple, it's just a valve, a vacuum diaphragm, and a shaft connecting them.

On some EGRs, you can see the shaft move. This one it looks like you will need a small inspection mirror at least, to see the shaft, if it can be seen from outside the valve at all.

What little I can see of the vacuum hoses, they look OK in the picture.
I've replaced the EGR valve. Nominal improvement. There was quite a bit of carbon buildup. I think my next move is to do a thorough cleaning of the throttle body.
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Old 05-19-2009, 01:12 PM
 
Location: Eastern Washington
8,785 posts, read 22,159,751 times
Reputation: 4734
Took a good look at the 4.6 in a buddy's Cougar - (which he bought for $400!) and I can say when one of these is "right", it's a very smooth engine.

Cleaning the throttle body won't hurt anything (provided you use the right stuff and do it right)

Wikipedia has a decent article on these engines: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Modular_engine

Last edited by M3 Mitch; 05-19-2009 at 01:26 PM.. Reason: Add Wikipedia link
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