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Old 03-01-2010, 03:14 AM
 
380 posts, read 1,047,749 times
Reputation: 203

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I have a 02 Ram and everytime I get down there I try to use a wrench and turn the bolt off but it never budges. I use to change my own oil on my car.

Wal Mart does it, but the $35 is getting expensive. I dont have an air gun and that plug is super tight on there.
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Old 03-01-2010, 03:17 AM
 
Location: southern california
55,237 posts, read 72,506,936 times
Reputation: 47458
cost me a good truck, didn t put on the filter tight nuf and was boxed in on the freeway, uninsured loss.
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Old 03-01-2010, 03:51 AM
 
380 posts, read 1,047,749 times
Reputation: 203
and thats why I want to be sure and do it myself, and save money.
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Old 03-01-2010, 03:59 AM
 
10,485 posts, read 22,582,871 times
Reputation: 6611
It all depends what kind of vehicle it is. My 1991 Escort is super easy. With the higher ground clearance your truck has it should be easy. Maybe the oil filter could be hard, but otherwise I would not see a problem.
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Old 03-01-2010, 04:12 AM
 
6,351 posts, read 18,906,272 times
Reputation: 9895
It's so easy, a caveman could do it...
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Old 03-01-2010, 04:50 AM
Status: "Hope is a walking dream." (set 21 days ago)
 
Location: Still in Portland, Oregon, for some reason
864 posts, read 2,986,693 times
Reputation: 691
I just changed the oil on my Santa Fe on Thursday. Technically I can get to the drain plug with the car on all fours but I usually jack it up just a little bit to get a bit of room. I know that it's a bad idea to get under a vehicle supported by a jack which is why I only put one arm under there. The wheels never leave the ground and I'm down there for a total of a minute. Also, I use a floor jack, not the dinky emergency kit jack.

If you find the drain plug hard to remove, use the closed end of a combination wrench and tap the opposite end with a rubber mallet. This should loosen it up. Also, make sure you're turning it the right way. I've been doing my own oil for years now and every time I stop and make sure I'm turning it the right way which is to the left.

One final word of advice; check your filler cap before you get started and make sure you don't need a funnel to pour the new oil in. My car has it in a very obscure place that requires a long-neck funnel. Thankfully I popped the hood before starting out the first time and picked up a funnel at the auto parts store.
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Old 03-01-2010, 05:27 AM
 
Location: Earth
4,227 posts, read 20,328,901 times
Reputation: 2210
On mine, the oil filter is under the hood, the drain plug is obviously on the bottom of the oil pan under the vehicle, but the truck sits high enough off the ground you could probably crawl underneath w/o having to jack up the truck.
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Old 03-01-2010, 05:45 AM
 
Location: Ohio
2,178 posts, read 7,812,088 times
Reputation: 3890
Don't ever use an "air gun" to remove an oil pan drain plug.
The plug should break loose with moderate physical force applied in a counter clockwise direction.
Once it breaks loose it will be easy to turn the rest of the way. It should only take about half a turn to free it. It's kind of an instant contact seal thing.
Once you get the drain plug out check to see if it has a copper or aluminum washer on it. Some do, some don't. Some plugs have a machined "washer face" that doesn't require a separate washer. I've made those types of plugs in the machine shop I used to work at. Most plugs that have a separate washer, the washer can be used over many times if not damaged.
Don't want to pull the filter and get oil all over everything? Poke a hole in the filter with a sharp object (a phillips screw driver or a nail will work, anything that is sharp and will penetrate the thin oil filter skin) and let it drain while you are doing other things.
And don't overtighten the drain plug when you install it. That might be why you are having trouble to get it broke loose. Some amatuer might have tightened it like they thought it was a head bolt or something. It just needs to be good and snugg. Or you can look up the specs and tighten it with a torgue wrench.
Check for leaks at the plug and the filter after you do the change with the engine running.
Coat the rubber gasket of the filter with oil before you install it. Once the filter makes firm contact with the base, it only needs about a half to 3/4's turn more.
You are not making two surfaces mate with force to stay together under stress like you would if you were tightening lugs nuts when you change a tire.
You are just making a seal. The plug and the filter just need to seal. There are no external bolt together forces involved. Too many national chain lubers don't understand that and think they have to tighten drains plugs and filters as tight as they are physically able.
Big mistake and not necessary.
No one boils an egg for hours to get it done. That would ruin it by over doing it.
You can ruin a drain plug or filter by over doing it also.
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Old 03-01-2010, 06:02 AM
 
Location: Under the SUNNY WARM SUN ....
14,939 posts, read 10,015,906 times
Reputation: 17529
How hard is it to change your own oil?


Very Hard!!

(I'm female)
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Old 03-01-2010, 12:12 PM
 
Location: U.S.A.
3,306 posts, read 9,035,476 times
Reputation: 2919
If you know how to make a pot of coffee you can change your oil.
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