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Old 03-18-2010, 08:37 PM
 
10,696 posts, read 20,114,276 times
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It had a bad engine. Taking the tranny off of it and putting it in my car, and parting out the rest. It was a decent car but I needed things off of it more. The sunroof is good, no rust, lots of electronics that will help me troubleshoot if my car won't start. New radiator on it, I needed another ($230+ for new), the list went on.

I'll post some more pics tomorrow you guys have been really helpful.
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Old 03-19-2010, 11:06 AM
 
10,696 posts, read 20,114,276 times
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OK more pics.

So I think the process goes like this.

  1. Fill up torque converter with some tranny fluid as a pre-charge. Front of torque converter:
  2. Lift transmission up horizontally and place the torque converter onto it, making sure it's seated all the way down.I'm going to do this by lashing the tranny with chains and lifting it with my engine hoist.
  3. Move transmission to engine.
  4. Bolt the transmission bell housing to the engine. As I do this I'll support the transmission underneath with my small floor jack. This will prevent the whole unit from falling over.
  5. Looking inside the bell housing, pull the torque converter to the flex plate and attach the small bolts holding it on.
Sound good?

I'm going to have to devise a way to lift the transmission, and then steady it after attaching using my small floor jack, but I am confident I can get that part done. It'll take some monkeying around but that's what makes it fun....

Does the red arrow point to the seal you guys are talking about? That must be what seals the transmission to the torque converter. Is it easy to replace?

Attached Thumbnails
Installing torque converter-seal.jpg   Installing torque converter-torq-bolts.jpg   Installing torque converter-front-torque.jpg   Installing torque converter-unstable.jpg  
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Old 03-19-2010, 11:50 AM
 
19,122 posts, read 21,362,274 times
Reputation: 7313
Yup that seal. About how heavy is that tranny? I would assume any one fit enough to do what you are doing can pick the thing up and just stuff it. If you have a crunchy back get a helper for the few minutes.

I have a crunchy, back but unless that tranny is made of gold I bet I can lift it.

The engine should be locked down hard. Only one part wants to wiggle.

The convert bolt access is thru the starter opening only? geeze these engineers are getting really bad. anything to save 1/2 cent. nothing but a bunch of bean counters.

I plan to keep my 85 turbo wagon for ever. Not even OBDI.. power windows, door locks and outside mirrors, leather seats, used to be heated but that went and I could care a less, 4 speed with over drive, and I just have no need of a so called modern car where little plastic things pop and cost 100 bucks each...

This BS is so bad I am thinking about building my own truck from the 50's or something. Maybe 4 fuses, a monster V 8, and a 3 or 4 speed stick, all based on KISS.

Uh yeah that seal, read the munbers call the parts jobber and get the seal cross referance.. to a seal the jobber has in stock. Don't frig with that seal till you are sure you can get one, and don't have to wait on some fool in Shanghi.

When you do get one with some care wedge the old one out with a stout screw driver or pry bar, with out scoring anything else.

Clean the seal housing well, add a thing film of ATF to the inside of the seal, aline it 'square' and with a 2x4 sanded up flat and clean drive it a bit to 'walk it in, inless you happen to have a nice steel pipe the same size. What ever you do work clean!

Look at the converter and clean where that seal sits and add another film very thin, so you don't later think it is a leak, and install it all.
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Old 03-19-2010, 12:37 PM
 
Location: Eastern Washington
13,388 posts, read 42,701,155 times
Reputation: 11465
Agree with Mac on the seal you indicate, you *may* want to do the output shaft seals too, so easy to do now. Maybe the shift shaft seal too. They are relatively cheap and very easy to change out now. Work carefully changing the seals, put some tape on the splined shaft if it's big enough to possibly damage the seal. You may want to spring for a seal driver, you really don't want that input shaft seal to leak when things are back together.

Knowing you, I suspect you will get that seal from the dealer, which is what I would do. I'm OK with paying more for the input shaft seal to know I am getting a good one.

You might think about putting in a couple of rebuilt half shafts as you put things back together as well.
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Old 03-19-2010, 01:55 PM
 
10,696 posts, read 20,114,276 times
Reputation: 9849
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mac_Muz View Post
Yup that seal. About how heavy is that tranny? I would assume any one fit enough to do what you are doing can pick the thing up and just stuff it. If you have a crunchy back get a helper for the few minutes.

I have a crunchy, back but unless that tranny is made of gold I bet I can lift it.
Heavy enough! I'm not very strong, but I think it weighs around 100-120#.


Quote:
The convert bolt access is thru the starter opening only? geeze these engineers are getting really bad. anything to save 1/2 cent. nothing but a bunch of bean counters.
There is a dedicated access port on the back of the engine, I just found it easier to view thru the starter hole.





Quote:
I plan to keep my 85 turbo wagon for ever. Not even OBDI.. power windows, door locks and outside mirrors, leather seats, used to be heated but that went and I could care a less, 4 speed with over drive, and I just have no need of a so called modern car where little plastic things pop and cost 100 bucks each...

This BS is so bad I am thinking about building my own truck from the 50's or something. Maybe 4 fuses, a monster V 8, and a 3 or 4 speed stick, all based on KISS.
I hear ya! It's too bad no TDI's were brought over to the states as I would have one in my driveway right now. A 240 TDI manual getting 40+ mpg running on veg oil...no fancy electronics, nothing expensive to break, those UK blokes are so lucky!

Quote:
Uh yeah that seal, read the munbers call the parts jobber and get the seal cross referance.. to a seal the jobber has in stock. Don't frig with that seal till you are sure you can get one, and don't have to wait on some fool in Shanghi.

When you do get one with some care wedge the old one out with a stout screw driver or pry bar, with out scoring anything else.

Clean the seal housing well, add a thing film of ATF to the inside of the seal, aline it 'square' and with a 2x4 sanded up flat and clean drive it a bit to 'walk it in, inless you happen to have a nice steel pipe the same size. What ever you do work clean!

Look at the converter and clean where that seal sits and add another film very thin, so you don't later think it is a leak, and install it all.
OK that makes sense. The dealer doesn't sell them (Volvo's recommended procedure with anything transmission related is to R&R with a freshly rebuilt unit) but I did find it on RockAuto.com, around $6 + shipping. I'll check Carquest and NAPA as well.

Seems like it's about the same as a cam seal, only bigger that should be doable.
Attached Thumbnails
Installing torque converter-rear-side.jpg  
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Old 03-19-2010, 01:59 PM
 
10,696 posts, read 20,114,276 times
Reputation: 9849
Quote:
Originally Posted by M3 Mitch View Post
Agree with Mac on the seal you indicate, you *may* want to do the output shaft seals too, so easy to do now. Maybe the shift shaft seal too. They are relatively cheap and very easy to change out now.
Output shaft, is that where the axles are fitted into? What is the shift shaft seal?


Quote:
Knowing you, I suspect you will get that seal from the dealer, which is what I would do. I'm OK with paying more for the input shaft seal to know I am getting a good one.

You might think about putting in a couple of rebuilt half shafts as you put things back together as well.
Unfortunately no go on the dealer, I'll buy the flywheel bolts and converter bolts from them but they don't offer anything transmission related besides the shift selector sensor. I probably won't do the axles as they are showing no signs of failure and when they do it seems like it's a simple procedure to just pop them out and put new ones in. I'd buy only from Raxles.com as pretty much all the other units are Chinese made, and I want to avoid anything Chinese on my Swedish car!!
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Old 03-19-2010, 02:03 PM
 
6,368 posts, read 13,342,993 times
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Hey Wheels, just a little bit of unsolicited advice.

Concrete blocks aren't meant to support weight the way you have it set in pic 2. All you have is 3 thin uprights holding the weight of the engine. Turn it a quarter turn (as it would be in a wall or a foundation) then you have the whole block taking the weight and it'll be a whole lot safer. Good luck
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Old 03-19-2010, 02:43 PM
 
Location: Eastern Washington
13,388 posts, read 42,701,155 times
Reputation: 11465
Quote:
Originally Posted by wheelsup View Post
Output shaft, is that where the axles are fitted into? What is the shift shaft seal?




Unfortunately no go on the dealer, I'll buy the flywheel bolts and converter bolts from them but they don't offer anything transmission related besides the shift selector sensor. I probably won't do the axles as they are showing no signs of failure and when they do it seems like it's a simple procedure to just pop them out and put new ones in. I'd buy only from Raxles.com as pretty much all the other units are Chinese made, and I want to avoid anything Chinese on my Swedish car!!
I agree on not wanting Chinese parts! In the picture where you are showing the dedicated hole for tightening the flex plate bolts, the seal that you have a rag stuffed into is the one (and the one on the other side of the trans) that I am talking about.

Any good Euro parts store should have what you need, IED in Oregon has catered to Volvo parts for a long time, but there is probably someone closer. Many Euro cars have transmissions built by Getrag, for example, so that particular transmission may be found in other cars besides Volvo 850s. A good bearing and seal supplier would probably have the seal, not specifically labeled as a Volvo transmission seal, just by outer and inner diameters and other specs.

You don't *have* to replace the input seal, but, it's right there for you to work on right now, it would suck if you install all this and it were to leak.
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Old 03-19-2010, 04:08 PM
 
10,696 posts, read 20,114,276 times
Reputation: 9849
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gimme3steps View Post
Hey Wheels, just a little bit of unsolicited advice.

Concrete blocks aren't meant to support weight the way you have it set in pic 2. All you have is 3 thin uprights holding the weight of the engine. Turn it a quarter turn (as it would be in a wall or a foundation) then you have the whole block taking the weight and it'll be a whole lot safer. Good luck
Ah ok cool thanks will do!
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Old 03-19-2010, 04:12 PM
 
10,696 posts, read 20,114,276 times
Reputation: 9849
Quote:
Originally Posted by M3 Mitch View Post
I agree on not wanting Chinese parts! In the picture where you are showing the dedicated hole for tightening the flex plate bolts, the seal that you have a rag stuffed into is the one (and the one on the other side of the trans) that I am talking about.

Any good Euro parts store should have what you need, IED in Oregon has catered to Volvo parts for a long time, but there is probably someone closer. Many Euro cars have transmissions built by Getrag, for example, so that particular transmission may be found in other cars besides Volvo 850s. A good bearing and seal supplier would probably have the seal, not specifically labeled as a Volvo transmission seal, just by outer and inner diameters and other specs.

IPD maybe? The tranny is an Aisin-Warner made in Japan. I'll look for an Aisin-Warner tranny source.

Quote:
You don't *have* to replace the input seal, but, it's right there for you to work on right now, it would suck if you install all this and it were to leak.
Before it was mentioned I had thought about replacing it (at least what I thought was a seal). So this is good info.
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