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Old 03-18-2010, 09:29 AM
 
6,300 posts, read 10,001,285 times
Reputation: 4024
Default Installing torque converter

OK got the engine out, the transmission off, and the torque converter off the tranny. Problem is how do I re-install it?

I've read that you should fill the torque converter with new tranny fluid then slip it on over the bevel gears of the tranny. However if I do that won't the fluid all spill out? What "seals" the fluid into the torque converter and prevents it from spinning out? Does the tranny pump new fluid into the torque converter?

Please help!
Attached Thumbnails
Installing torque converter-1.jpg   Installing torque converter-2.jpg  
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Old 03-18-2010, 10:13 AM
 
Location: Earth
4,214 posts, read 11,600,892 times
Reputation: 2017
I've only installed one torque converter, on an old school GM TH350 (they were used in many GM RWD cars and trucks during the 1970's) which doesn't look like what you have in the pic.

Anyways when you install the converter you slide it on over the shaft and then spin it until it locks on. At least for a TH350 you do.

I believe you can only fill the converter up until you can turn it sideways to install it. Some may spill out. At least some did when I did mine.

Not sure what seals it up - good question. For the longest time I thought the fluid in the converter stays there but I do believe it does circulate thru the trans. Perhaps a tranny guru will chime in and enlighten us.
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Old 03-18-2010, 02:35 PM
 
Location: U.S.A.
2,522 posts, read 3,669,946 times
Reputation: 1534
Yes, you have to install it vertically... at least that is the easiest way. Not sure what you mean by what "seals" the fluid. The fluid is constantly circulated when the TC is rotating.

The prefill is a prime.
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Old 03-18-2010, 02:52 PM
 
Location: Eastern Washington
8,785 posts, read 22,159,751 times
Reputation: 4733
If you don't have a good shop manual, probably now is the time to get one.

I *think* the point of draining and re-filling the T/C while it's out is just because this is a good opportunity to do that.

I have never been hands-on with a Volvo slushbox though! Sometimes they have their own way of doing things.

Some older GM T/C have a drain/fill plug on the outer part of the "donut" - I don't see one in your picture.

Considering the amount of work involved in getting back to the T/C vs finding out what really needs to be done, I would spring for a manual.
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Old 03-18-2010, 03:24 PM
 
6,300 posts, read 10,001,285 times
Reputation: 4024
I have the manual. This is what it says:

Quote:
Installation
1) Ensure torque converter is in transmission as far as
possible. Distance between cover and mounting lip should be about .50"
(13 mm). Install transmission to engine, adjusting height and angle
with transmission jack. Install and tighten crosswise 7 engine-totransmission
bolts. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS. Remove jack.
2) Fit torque converter to flexplate. Install new torque
converter bolts loosely. Tighten bolts so bolt heads are in contact
with flexplate. Final tighten bolts to specification. See
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS. To install remaining components, reverse
removal procedure.
That is the official Volvo manual. Haynes is pretty much the same.
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Old 03-18-2010, 04:48 PM
 
Location: Eastern Washington
8,785 posts, read 22,159,751 times
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I'm probably not helping much but probably the most important things are that it not be empty of fluid when you put it on, and that you make sure to get the T/C fully seated on the transmission, be certain you are not crushing it when you bolt engine and transola together.

Are you putting the engine and trans together before you put the combined unit back into the car? I think that's how most all imports are done.
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Old 03-18-2010, 06:12 PM
 
19,115 posts, read 10,974,172 times
Reputation: 7104
Good luck with that! That is BS in the highest form...

Tip the converter up and fill it to 1/2, just under really, then fit it to the tranny. Take care to not mash the ft tranny seal, rotate the converter so it drops into the tranny so far as it will go. You will feel it lunk in. Might lunk in twice take care it is in all the way!

Then just take care it doesn't come off the tranny, and install the tranny, leaving all the bolts to around finger tight. Once there get all the bell housing bolts evenly finger tight, then bolt up the converter going 3 times around, finger tight, 1/2 torque, and last full torque. Then torque the bell.

Install the rest. Counting pints as you go, add the rest to be 1 pint shy of full, then start the engine and read the stick for final fill, which should be warm in neutral.

If you do as the book says, I see no way you will ever aline the converter and for sure you will mash the front seal.
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Old 03-18-2010, 06:49 PM
 
Location: Eastern Washington
8,785 posts, read 22,159,751 times
Reputation: 4733
I think Mac, the manual, and I are trying to tell you the same thing - the main thing is to not "mash" the seal on the trans, I'm guessing the engine has some sort of access plate that will let you put the bolts into the flex plate?

The trick is to turn the T/C and make sure it goes fully "home" on the trans.

Mac makes a good point about intentionally under-filling the trans a bit on initial fill. For that matter there is no reason to obsess on getting the trans up to the full mark, anywhere over minimum and under maximum is OK.

You did put a new seal on the transmission input shaft, right?

Are you putting a junkyard trans or engine in your low-buck car that you bought recently?
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Old 03-18-2010, 07:42 PM
 
19,115 posts, read 10,974,172 times
Reputation: 7104
yeah so far as I know volvo uses an alloy section that bolts to both the bell and the engine. The teeth of the flex plate need to be turned in engine rotation, so the slack in the timing belt do jump out of time... This way you can do up all the bolts at the converter. I go around 3 times not skipping any bolts, making no patterns.

There could be a gap at the converter to flex plate at first and it(converter) may need a shove into the flex plate once to fit up snug. I can't see the hub on the converter, but I bet it has one, that will center it.

A new seal is nice, but if it wasn't leaking and isn't mashed you can reuse it, but new is best.

The only pump in the tranny used to be the front pump, will fill the converter when the engine runs.. Hold the brakes pretty hard and shift into each gear slowly several times as the engine warms. Don't drive at all, Just hit every selection and hang there for a second several times. That will allow the valve body to fill, and flex it's little wings..

Be in park or neutral parking brake on to check the stick with the engine running. Add more to between the marks, do not over fill, and be sure the engine is warmed well or you will over fill. Oils tend to expand a lot hot.

I too wonder why this is going on, I sure hope not to just change tranny oil out in the converter....
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Old 03-18-2010, 08:03 PM
 
Location: Eastern Washington
8,785 posts, read 22,159,751 times
Reputation: 4733
No wheelsup posted up awhile back about buying a fairly presentable Volvo 850 with a bad engine or maybe transmission. Bought it for chump change, now is getting it on the road, will have a good spare car to drive with very little $ in it, just a little sweat equity.
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