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Old 05-19-2010, 07:41 PM
 
6,349 posts, read 7,424,726 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Merc63 View Post
I'll agree with a lot of your comments, but, it's easy to tell worn struts when putting the car on the lift or having it sit there in the shop. You're not going to notice "warped" brakes from the parking lot into the service bay OR by looking at them.

BTW, the "warped" brake rotor is a myth. It's actually uneven pad material deposits from holding the brakes down on hot rotors.

StopTech : Balanced Brake Upgrades
You're talking about two entirely different things.

True, pad material buildup causes most brake shake, vibration, judder or whatever you want to call it. But you can't say there's no such thing as a warped rotor. Rotors can be warped brand new right out of the box having never been installed and will cause the same symptoms as pad material buildup.
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Old 05-19-2010, 10:36 PM
 
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Also can't you warp a rotor by improperly torquing lug nuts? According to a volvo tech that is the #1 cause of warped rotors on Volvos he works on.
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Old 05-20-2010, 09:32 AM
 
Location: Pikesville, MD
4,920 posts, read 5,553,966 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gimme3steps View Post
You're talking about two entirely different things.

True, pad material buildup causes most brake shake, vibration, judder or whatever you want to call it. But you can't say there's no such thing as a warped rotor. Rotors can be warped brand new right out of the box having never been installed and will cause the same symptoms as pad material buildup.

Apparently braking experts disagree. Carrol Smith, the author of that article, knows more about brakes and suspension than all of us on this forum combined, and probably more than most humans alive. He doesn't work in the world of the theoretical, but in fact, so I tend to listen to what he has to say.
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Old 05-20-2010, 10:07 AM
 
Location: Central Texas
12,968 posts, read 13,395,008 times
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I wouldn't trust Meinecke for anything.

But it is also very possible the "struts" on a car with 100K miles are near the end of their life.

I think the fender bounce test is not very reliable. Depending on your strength, weight, and the inherent friction in the suspension the rebound from the bounce could still seem normal when the shocks are in fact shot.

I think driving on a road with some bounces/bumps is a better test. If the car feels as if it doesn't settle down quickly after going over a series of bounces in the road the shocks may be worn.
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Old 05-20-2010, 01:43 PM
 
6,349 posts, read 7,424,726 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Merc63 View Post
Apparently braking experts disagree. Carrol Smith, the author of that article, knows more about brakes and suspension than all of us on this forum combined, and probably more than most humans alive. He doesn't work in the world of the theoretical, but in fact, so I tend to listen to what he has to say.
I'm not saying this guy doesn't know what he's talking about. And I sure ain't claiming to be an expert. All I know is after doing brake work for the last 30+ years and machining thousands of rotors I can safely say I've seen plenty of "warped" rotors, warped meaning having excessive runout of .004" or more.
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Old 05-20-2010, 01:59 PM
 
Location: The cupboard under the sink
3,574 posts, read 4,141,756 times
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Of course brake rotors warp !
It's a result of the constant cycle of heating and cooling.

Pretty much any metal distorts when going through this cycle. apply a blowtorch to a sheet of metal, and watch how it distorts. Then cool it rapidly, and watch it distort more.

I'm afraid either you've misunderstood the article you mention, or your source is wrong.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Merc63 View Post
Apparently braking experts disagree. Carrol Smith, the author of that article, knows more about brakes and suspension than all of us on this forum combined, and probably more than most humans alive. He doesn't work in the world of the theoretical, but in fact, so I tend to listen to what he has to say.

Last edited by bobman; 05-20-2010 at 02:54 PM..
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Old 05-21-2010, 07:32 AM
 
Location: 77059
7,750 posts, read 18,508,201 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarolinaOnMyMind View Post
Hi everyone,

The wife brought the car in for an oil change at Meineke the other day and was informed that the struts need to be replaced. The car is a 04 Corolla with 100,000 miles on it and the struts have never been replaced/repaired before. I assume the mechanic is honest and that struts would normally have to be replaced with this much mileage.

Unless she's been off-roading I don't believe you need to replace them. I have an '05 Vibe, which is essentially the same car as yours. It has 120k and the struts are fine. I expect them to last the lifetime of the vehicle.
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Old 05-21-2010, 10:30 AM
 
Location: Dallas, TX
4,465 posts, read 5,318,529 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Omaha Rocks View Post
While it's a good idea to replace them, not replacing them is not going to cause you to get into a serious accident.
I agree with most of what's been said already, and what I've quoted is true as well, to a point.

With shot shock absorbers you won't have the same level of grip and control in a situation where you need it. Brake distances get longer (by several meters) and any evasive maneuver could fail, because the shocks aren't doing their job.

So while it might not cause an accident, in a situation where one is very likely, it might make it happen instead of not or it might make it more severe than it needed to be.
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Old 05-21-2010, 03:41 PM
 
19,127 posts, read 11,683,468 times
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Well I sure have machined warped rotors back to true, and some warp again fairly quickly while others do not. This is setting the first depth of cut, when i do it, i spin the rotor to find the highest possible places so i don't cut too deep starting in a low spot.

As the rotor turns being cut, it will miss low spots totally.
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Old 05-23-2010, 12:06 PM
 
Location: Pikesville, MD
4,920 posts, read 5,553,966 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobman View Post
Of course brake rotors warp !
It's a result of the constant cycle of heating and cooling.

Pretty much any metal distorts when going through this cycle. apply a blowtorch to a sheet of metal, and watch how it distorts. Then cool it rapidly, and watch it distort more.

I'm afraid either you've misunderstood the article you mention, or your source is wrong.

Did you read the article? You might want to. I'm not the only one to understand it...

http://www.examiner.com/x-1060-Orlan...d-brake-rotors

http://www.titantalk.com/forums/tita...tors-myth.html

Last edited by Merc63; 05-23-2010 at 01:03 PM..
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