Architect or Engineer Stamp on your own home design (2013, construction)

[yellowyak]

I would also love to get a list of architects

[yellowyak]

Please contact me I am in the same boat you are, but I assume you have completed your plans by now, and I would love to find an architect that will be able to assist us in stamping.

[leilaniguy]

Here's a couple in my town: Big Island Engineering 808 965 9978 and Sam Kistle 808 965 7124.

[tpirsig]

Robert Smelker is in Hilo once a week reviewing and stamping plans, his fees are reasonable. Our house started as a Honsador off-the-shelf plan originally drawn by him; when we made modifications he was easy to get a hold of and work with.

[Warmsoju]

I'm a former architect turned house flipper and I can tell you that as a owner-builder you do not need architect's stamp if you are building less then four unit dwelling. Only requirement is that you do not get to do your own work for electrical and plumbing by law. Otherwise your drawing however rudimentary is fine for permit by the building department as long as you follow the international building code 2006 (9th revision) while building. You only need detailed drawings if you were to hire a contractor to do your work for you but most of them won't really follow the exact spec of the design/drawing anyway and normally just apply what they know from previous experience. If you don't meet the code, the inspector will let you know and give you the opportunity to resolve the issue and re-inspect later.
If your design is very complex and uses a lot of engineered concrete you might need either structural engineers stamp or architectural engineers but I doubt you are building anything that complex when you are required to.

[Warmsoju]

Originally Posted by stevo6

The inspector is simply doing a check of the work that the architect did. It is not usually comprehensive.

Actually inspectors are checking the work of the builder/contractor to see if it meets the code. Nothing more.

[Warmsoju]

I should also mention that as a owner-builder you are only allowed to build one building every two years to circumvent around the exemption. If you are building again within that two year period you will need to hire a professional to build. Usually contractors will have or have access to pre-approved plans to meet your planning needs otherwise your only option will be to hire an architect/engineer to design your plan with all the contract documents necessary for you to obtain a permit.
Also, if you are owner-builder you can not sell or lease the property for 12 month period after completion of building.
I hope this helps.

FYI. The reason why getting an architect to stAmp the plan is so expensive is because of the insurance policy they must have to practice as an architect. They are liable and take full responsibility for that building and must provide warranty for the said building.

[hotzcatz]

Originally Posted by Warmsoju

I'm a former architect turned house flipper and I can tell you that as a owner-builder you do not need architect's stamp if you are building less then four unit dwelling. Only requirement is that you do not get to do your own work for electrical and plumbing by law. Otherwise your drawing however rudimentary is fine for permit by the building department as long as you follow the international building code 2006 (9th revision) while building. You only need detailed drawings if you were to hire a contractor to do your work for you but most of them won't really follow the exact spec of the design/drawing anyway and normally just apply what they know from previous experience. If you don't meet the code, the inspector will let you know and give you the opportunity to resolve the issue and re-inspect later.
If your design is very complex and uses a lot of engineered concrete you might need either structural engineers stamp or architectural engineers but I doubt you are building anything that complex when you are required to.

Ah, was this in Hawaii County? As usual, they've been making changes in the code and in how folks get building permits, but this seems new and very different if it's true.

[Warmsoju]

Originally Posted by hotzcatz

Ah, was this in Hawaii County? As usual, they've been making changes in the code and in how folks get building permits, but this seems new and very different if it's true.

My experiences are from Chicago, San Diego, Charleston, SC, and South Korea but generally codes and permit process doesn't vary much from my experience. Zoning classification will matter more when it comes to restrictions and regulations so depending on the zone you are building on will greatly influence what variance and exemption you can apply to your building. But at the same time, you can also change the zoning or at least try if it doesn't fit with your building plans.

I haven't built anything in Hawaii but I will be moving to BI next month to obtain my own experience regarding the BI permit process. I briefly read some of the county codes it states as follows regarding R3 and U classifications. Mind you, it will have different exemptions for other classifications.


The owner-builder permit application allows the owner to act as a general contractor without possessing the required license. The owner-builder supervises construction, and hires sub-contractors licensed by the State of Hawai‘i. The building is constructed for personal use and may not be sold or leased within one year after construction is completed. A brochure, Risks and responsibilities of being an owner-builder is available from the State of Hawai‘i Department of Commerce and Consumer Affairs.
2. Single-family and two-family detached residential dwelling (R-3 Occupancy) and accessory structures (U Occupancy) must comply with the 2006 International Residential Code as amended and 2006 International Energy Conservation Code.

3. Plans and specifications must be prepared and stamped by a State of Hawai‘i licensed professional architect or structural engineer when:

A single-story structure and more than 600 square feet of floor area for R-3 Occupancy;
A single or two-story structure of mixed occupancies of R-3 and U Occupancies with more than 1,200 square feet of total floor areas.
A structure of R-3 or U Occupancies that are three or more stories in height;
Structures located in a FEMA designated flood zone;
Structural members of concrete, masonry or steel;
Retaining walls over 4-feet in height;
All plans for post and pier type construction with/without perimeter foundation walls of R-3 Occupancies;
All U Occupancies greater than 600 square feet;
Wood trusses of more than 24’-0” length. Pre-engineered and metal trusses;
The building official may require plans, computations, and specifications prepared and stamped by a professional architect or structural engineer when prescriptive requirements of the building code are not applied (i.e., single wall construction);
4. Privately owned or privately controlled one-story dwelling or accessory structure of value not exceeding $40,000 and a two-story dwelling or accessory structure of value not exceeding $35,000 do not require plans prepared by a State of Hawai‘i licensed architect or engineer. However; this exception does not apply to a dwelling or accessory structure which the principal structural members consist of reinforced concrete or structural steel having riveted, bolted, or welded connections.

5. Submit two (2) complete sets of plans. One original, and a photocopy:

Drawn to scale in ink with dimensions on a 11” x 17” or larger paper;
Indicate the nature and extent of the proposed work clearly distinguished from existing work.
Plans can be a blueprint.
6. Plans must include:

Design Loads (floor live load, roof live load, basic wind speed, effective wind speed, wind exposure category, and seismic design category);
A plot plan of the property;
A foundation plan (layout and dimensions);
A roof plan;
Floor plans for each level;
A framing plan;
Building and wall sections;
Door & window schedules indicating size and type;
Exterior elevation plans and,
Interior elevation plans; not normally necessary.

[hotzcatz]

Good luck on changing the zoning.

They also require an engineer's or architect's stamp if your building eaves are wider than 24". Most folks prefer a 3' eave to keep the sun off the sides of the building to keep it cooler so that will frequently kick the plans into the 'get a stamp' zone. And a lot of folks want post and pier construction to keep air circulating under the house to keep it cool, which then kicks it into the 'get a stamp zone'. A stamp isn't that expensive that folks should alter what they want by very much to avoid it.

Compared to the overall price of construction as well as the length of time you'll be living in the structure afterwards, making any compromises just to avoid a stamp doesn't make much actual sense. Same with building design, folks will make all kinds of compromises to save $100 on construction and then they'll have to live with it for decades afterwards.

IMHO, costs need to be taken into consideration, but not too much if it affects the livability of the structure. I've known folks to put the bathroom in a place they really didn't want in order to save $20 worth of pipe. So forever after, the house isn't the way they want, just to save $20. What's the sense in that?