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Old 07-13-2013, 09:06 AM
 
2 posts, read 3,627 times
Reputation: 11

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Energy assessments are an excellent tool for saving on utility bills and they are "free" to many Massachusetts residents. As mentioned above everyone pays a fee on utility bills to fund the programs so you should take advantage of it!

I work at a company (Sagewell) that connects residents for free to energy efficiency resources including utility-sponsored/Mass Save assessments. Feel free to request your energy assessment at Home Energy Audit - Thermal images by Sagewell and no-cost in-home energy efficiency assessments from Mass Save - free or call us at 617-963-8141 for questions or more information on energy assessments and other energy efficiency options. We also offer free thermal image reports to supplement Mass Save home energy assessments.
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Old 07-24-2013, 10:20 AM
 
Location: Winchester
226 posts, read 287,517 times
Reputation: 194
Hi all,

I contacted MassSave directly and a representative performed an energy assessment at my house a few days ago. He gave me a sheet which shows the total estimated cost is $7000+, but I'll have to fork out $5000+ myself. The most expensive is attic insulation, which is around $3100, their incentive is $800+ and I'll have to shell out around $2300 myself.

Is this normal? Because I see that you guys are only shelling out 1/3 of the costs... whereas for me, it appears that MassSave is paying only 1/3, and I'll have to pay 2/3 of the costs..?
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Old 07-25-2013, 12:02 PM
 
Location: Needham, MA
6,324 posts, read 9,029,761 times
Reputation: 5324
Hmmm . . . that doesn't sound right.
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Old 07-26-2013, 02:34 PM
 
643 posts, read 831,700 times
Reputation: 463
Has anyone had a blower test done? I'm assuming that is not what MassSave is doing.
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Old 07-26-2013, 03:01 PM
 
28 posts, read 38,218 times
Reputation: 32
Working with them now and they've been great, although the poster whose expected contribution is 2/3rds may want to ask them to double check. In our case they showed up, installed $600+ worth of energy efficient bulbs and are proposing attic and garage insulation plus a few other things that would cost us $1900 toward a total cost of ~$5500. We were impressed by the offer of an interest free loan of up to $25k for 7 years that could be used for new windows or central air. Strikes us as a great program that not many folks take advantage of, all subsidized by our gas and electric bills.
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Old 07-26-2013, 10:25 PM
 
Location: Needham, MA
6,324 posts, read 9,029,761 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dravogadro View Post
Has anyone had a blower test done? I'm assuming that is not what MassSave is doing.
When they perform the "air sealing" service on your house they do a blower test. First you have to do the energy audit to qualify for air sealing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by audemars View Post
Working with them now and they've been great, although the poster whose expected contribution is 2/3rds may want to ask them to double check. In our case they showed up, installed $600+ worth of energy efficient bulbs and are proposing attic and garage insulation plus a few other things that would cost us $1900 toward a total cost of ~$5500. We were impressed by the offer of an interest free loan of up to $25k for 7 years that could be used for new windows or central air. Strikes us as a great program that not many folks take advantage of, all subsidized by our gas and electric bills.
Keep in mind the loan is not automatically for 7 years. The more you take out for a loan, the longer term they allow. Double check the Mass Save website but I believe the loan can only be used to replace single pane windows with modern windows. I'm not sure if there are qualifications for A/C replacement but I know to get the rebates you have to buy the highly efficient A/C systems which are more expensive.
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Old 07-27-2013, 10:17 AM
 
538 posts, read 1,042,545 times
Reputation: 452
Quote:
Originally Posted by DawnMTL View Post
They will be walking around looking for opportunities to feed you asparagus and then steal your urine.
Dawn, I LOVE IT lol.

I wish to add that totally sealing up a house may not be that healthy as we do need to have air exchange. Our atmosphere is aproximately 21 percent oxygen and once we breath out, it is then 16 percent oxygen. totally sealed up homes are more prone to carbon monoxide issues. Good insulation, double pane window, storm doors (no caulking by the way) even storm windows (no caulking). Major cracks and openings are good to seal up, but the air needs to get exchanged inside your home as well.Wanted to add this for safety reasons

I have all energy saving bulbs and it makes a big difference with my electric bill.

Dawn, I cook alot of asparagas on the grille WICKED GOOD
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Old 07-27-2013, 11:25 AM
 
Location: Needham, MA
6,324 posts, read 9,029,761 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Lanata View Post
I wish to add that totally sealing up a house may not be that healthy as we do need to have air exchange. Our atmosphere is aproximately 21 percent oxygen and once we breath out, it is then 16 percent oxygen. totally sealed up homes are more prone to carbon monoxide issues. Good insulation, double pane window, storm doors (no caulking by the way) even storm windows (no caulking). Major cracks and openings are good to seal up, but the air needs to get exchanged inside your home as well.Wanted to add this for safety reasons
As part of the energy audit they actually check the flow of your exhaust gases. They won't do any air sealing or insulation in my house yet because they said I have some "spillage" coming out of the exhaust of my hot water heater. I'm having a plumber come in to fix it so I can move forward with the sealing/insulation.
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Old 07-27-2013, 02:57 PM
 
538 posts, read 1,042,545 times
Reputation: 452
Thanks Mike, I respect your opinions and can tell you have been in your field for time. I really learn alot in this city data thing and have a few good laughs to boot.

On another note, I have eliminated several gas and oil fired hot water heaters and switched them to electric where there were flue issues. Mostly to avoid lining chimneys and or having to use direct venting for a hot water heater. Electric hot water is no longer the bear on the monthly bill where Oil has gotten really higher as well as Natural Gas (although still less expensive) I say this as a suggestion where sometimes flue issues arise where a furnace or boiler is sharing a chimney, it is less expensive to just remove the hot water heater that is oil or gas fired, installing an electric one and no flue is needed. It can also be placed anywhere in a house due to this. Sometimes resulting in faster hot water to a kitchen and or bathroom depending on the location. When a hot water tank (showing my age with that term) needs to be near a chimney, it is not often nearer to where the hot water is needed. This causes a time delay in waiting for the hot water. (whole other conversation lol). Re lining a chimney is not always the best long term solution. Specially where most of the newer heating units are using a direct vent. (takes deep breath) This whole rant of mine came from your comment on leakage from your hot water tank and my many recent dealings with simular issues. Hope this helps
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Old 07-27-2013, 07:31 PM
 
Location: Needham, MA
6,324 posts, read 9,029,761 times
Reputation: 5324
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Lanata View Post
Thanks Mike, I respect your opinions and can tell you have been in your field for time. I really learn alot in this city data thing and have a few good laughs to boot.

On another note, I have eliminated several gas and oil fired hot water heaters and switched them to electric where there were flue issues. Mostly to avoid lining chimneys and or having to use direct venting for a hot water heater. Electric hot water is no longer the bear on the monthly bill where Oil has gotten really higher as well as Natural Gas (although still less expensive) I say this as a suggestion where sometimes flue issues arise where a furnace or boiler is sharing a chimney, it is less expensive to just remove the hot water heater that is oil or gas fired, installing an electric one and no flue is needed. It can also be placed anywhere in a house due to this. Sometimes resulting in faster hot water to a kitchen and or bathroom depending on the location. When a hot water tank (showing my age with that term) needs to be near a chimney, it is not often nearer to where the hot water is needed. This causes a time delay in waiting for the hot water. (whole other conversation lol). Re lining a chimney is not always the best long term solution. Specially where most of the newer heating units are using a direct vent. (takes deep breath) This whole rant of mine came from your comment on leakage from your hot water tank and my many recent dealings with simular issues. Hope this helps
Thanks Bob.

I actually had a plumber in to give me an estimate on something else and he looked at my hot water heater. He said there's some piece that's like a column that goes down the middle of the heater and it was installed upside down. He's going to fix it for me when he comes to do the other work I had him in for.
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