What is cheaper, pulling a camper, or driving one? (trailer, conversion, motorhome)

[dhanu86]

Strictly cost wise, is it more efficient to drive an RV as one unit, or have one that you pull and drive a truck to pull it?

[StealthRabbit]

(ps. If you are into the BIG rig RV's there will be a lot of discussion around this topic. Go to Escapees RV Club – the club for all RVers for good info. )

Originally Posted by dhanu86

Strictly cost wise, ....

That too can be subjective. Capital costs or operational costs? Is convenience or shared driving a desire? Is this a primary home replacement?
Will you be 'staying in one place and touring from a base, or mostly on the go. Is Boon-docking in your plan? (free BLM camping)
Off-road, or on-road? Personally I really dislike the large 5th wheels (I do smaller / remote campgrounds), BUT they are perfect for the many that live in them and / or volunteer at work / park projects in this 'rig' (their replacement home).

STRICTLY cost wise for a FSC, probably a used diesel pickup (3/4 - 1 ton) 2wd ($3500) and a used pickup mounted camper ($1200).

Benefits (cost wise):

Less rolling gear to maintain / license / insure.
Less to break.
Better fuel economy (~15 - 18 MPG)
Ability to 'stealth camp' FREE (hospital , church, funeral home, fair, race track, restaurants, parking lot, city park, residential street ...)


You can get a pretty low cost FSC bumper tow RV trailer too (~$3000)
Economy = ~ 12 mpg
More tires to buy
Brake controller
Hitch
tough to 'stealth-camp' Free Campgrounds for RVs
access difficult in many free forest camping areas.
have to pay for larger RV space

Benefit = MORE SPACE can 'drop' RV and run around lighter.

For CHEAP pickup / tow vehicle I tend to recommend a 1 Gen ('89-93) Dodge Cummins. These are TOUGH, CHEAP trucks that will go multi million miles and LOTS of free ways to upgrade power (very de-tuned as stock). These things do RIDE ROUGH compared to the newer trucks (which require $x,xxx suspension upgrades every 100,000 miles) AND they are NOISY (a 'prechamber' diesel engine rather than a 'direct-injection', can be mitigated with sound blankets). They need some mods ($100) to run on Bio-Diesel or free fryer grease, BUT Yellowstone Park has been running one on Bio-D for many years (~20) and probably a million miles by now. Many RV delivery transport companies have used these trucks well past 1,000,000 miles.
1st Gen. Ram - All Topics - Dodge Diesel - Diesel Truck Resource Forums

Other CHEAP options.
Used Class C (~$3000) very practical if you are gonna live in this thing AND 'go on the cheap'

Van conversion or VW Westy(one preference of mine) ~ $300 - $5000 ~ 20 mpg
Stealth camping is the NORM
WetWesties - A Pacific Northwest Camping Society Rialta Heaven - Welcome
Drawbacks: SPACE / repair costs
Benefit: Very well laid out for functionality. Getting up and grabbing a 'tall cool one' anytime, walking around while someone else drives; to go take a nap, read, stretch.

Not so cheap but economical option = Sprinter van conversion ~$60k used ~ 22 -24 MPG (diesel) vehicle good for ~ 500k + miles, but conversion stuff will all break BEFORE 200K.
The 2010 Sprinter Van. Built to Work Smarter.
Roadtrek Motorhome, RV Camper Van, Class B Motor Homes

My Econo RV.... 45 MPG (on free fryer grease and a 1250 mile range between fillups ) 96 VW Passat Diesel station wagon ($2000) + a used 'snowbear' utility trailer with canopy top ($300). cheap version of this >> Teardrops.Net: (530) 275-6728

Or my FIRST preference ...
Stealth Rabbit ($35 car that gets 50 mpg on free grease)
and using private Guest homes... $10 / night

Benefit = Warm bed, clean shower, warm bathroom, free food, and TERRIFIC conversation / trip guidance / learning and helping opportunities.

(Full Disclosure: While I have owned / and or operated and had all the above in the family (I borrowed a Sprinter, I'm too cheap to buy one)...I don't like to camp, UNLESS it is backpacking, or by motorcycle or Bicycle and just a sleeping bag. I'm not into the 'hassle' factor YMMV). That said.... I am designing a very nice compact 'camping / chuckwagon box' for the commercial market.

[zthatzmanz28]

Everything said above...but if you want to haul a trailer you can also consider a second generation cummins (1994-1998 12 valve).

[WyoNewk]

It depends a lot on how you're planning to use it. Provide details -- all you can -- and I'd be happy to add my opinions.

[rtandc]

Again a million different answers....Are you talking class A, B or C...Travel Trailer, 5th wheel, Truck camper etc.

Just as you can debate good and bad points about each type of RV you can also debate the cost factor about each......

Simple answer about RV'ing in general....If you have to ask how much it cost....dont even start in this hobby or lifestyle

[StealthRabbit]

I think the OP is a 20 something that is trying to determine a cheap way of living. (Has been considering enlisting... THAT is not a 'free -ride'. !! )

I forgot to mention the 'bus' idea, i.e. when we were age 20 - 30 (1960's and 70's). Gas was $.20 / gal so it was more sustainable. Now you can get diesel powered used buses for ~ $3000 and run them on used cooking grease. Outfitting a bus is lots more trouble than buying an old $3000 class c (But they burn gas ~ 8 - 12 mpg).

Doing a bus would be more 'original'.

[ESFP]

The main thing, I think, is with a travel camper (5th wheel or Tow Trailer) you can set up camp and still use your vehicle to drive to restaurants or sight-seeing, then come back with everything still hooked up (electric, plumbing, cable TV...). And, if your motor unit needs repaired you don't loose your camper in the meantime with a towable (tag-along or tag trailer). Either way, I've never heard of anyone bragging about fuel savings with any camper. They're all pretty bad, except if you get a newer one that specifies "Ultra Lite" and low profile. My suggestion: Rent one before you buy.