All About Montreal (sublet, apartment, rental)

[AsymptoticFaery]

Well I've looked through this forum and only see a few threads on Montreal but they are pretty much like ghost towns when it comes to the population of posts contained within.

So for those that have any info or familiarity with the city, I'd like to ask a few questions. I've looked around online for some extra info but I feel it might be best to read info about Montreal directly from individuals here.

What is the cost of living like in Montreal? Food, shelter and utilities?

It seems that the average rental price ranges between 700-900 for a decent apartment if I am not mistaken...and that is certainly cheap considering the average cost of rental here in Los Angeles county (1200-1500).

I guess I would describe "decent" or rather ideal as 1-2 bedrooms/1-2 baths, at least 1000 sq. ft., 2-story, pet allowance (small dog), washer/dryer unit within, clean space, reasonably sized kitchen area, etc. Additionally a flexible lease would be necessary (3-4 month rental time).

Which areas should be avoided for rental in terms of safety (crime level) and security?

How would you describe Montreal and the quality of living there overall?

What's your experience been like as a visitor or current and/or former native resident?

Does the city have lucrative industries for those in graphic design, art and publishing/editing professions? How well would or could those in these fields make a living?

[Kanopus]

Hello!!!

I am myself is an immigrant to Canada and have been living in Montreal nearly 7 months already. All written beneath is not a supreme truth and just my private opinion. I used to live in Germany during last 4 years and I have never visited US so I may only make any comparison with EU and not US.
1) You are quite right about renal price range – for 3.5 apartment you should expect something starting from 600 and up to 1500 – depends on what you want and where the apartment is situated. I may recommend moreMontreal.com, services and directory of Montreal web sites (I found my apartment there) for a reference – there you may look through rental ads.
2) There are few areas that I personally avoid if I would have looked for an apartment, though Montreal is pretty safe place and I have never seen any scenes of violence – Parc Extension/Villeray, Hochelaga-Maisonneuve and some northern Cote-de-Neiges (I live in southern Cote-de-Neiges). Probably the most “sweet” areas are Outremont, Mont-Royal and Westmont. If your primary language is English Westmont is the place for you – as long as this is an Anglophone neighbourhood (everyone in Montreal can speak English, even though it does not mean that they will be happy to communicate in English) and it has quite high quality of life there. Down-town is more like a long-term hotel with lots of concrete high-rise apartment buildings – it can be also a variant, though you should expect higher rent costs.
3) Some day-to-day expenses:
Electricity: 22-30 $/month
Telephone: 29-36$/month (more likely you will have some “nice” experience with Bell Canada)
Public transport: 66.75$/month (network is well developed and works pretty good)
Internet: 20-32$/month (Lower price for a year contract. Many high-rise apartment buildings have everything ready and you only need to ask management)
Restaurants: If you are not going for something special you should expect to pay 8-15 $. Comparing to Europe it is cheap. Though, there are more luxurious restaurants where prices range is 25-40+$.
Grocery: Canada is less effective is comparison to Europe and there are objective reasons – it is really big, it is in the north, and it is by far less populated. Thus, the prices are a bit more elevated, e.g. 2L milk is 3.12 $, vegetables and fruits are more expensive during winter, e.g. 1 cucumber is about 2.49 $, 1 kg tomatoes is about 8.8 $, juice 1.8 L starts from 3$, fish – 25-28$/kg
Gasoline: I do not have a car, though now price for a litre is about 1.1 $.
4) On the whole Montreal is pretty attractive and pleasant place, particularly during summer. During winter life seems to be more bounded by weather factors, though it also has some distinctive features. As I said earlier, Canada is not EU – it is less effective and slower. What I find really great that there is always something goes on and its atmosphere it is something special – I have been to Ottawa, Toronto, and Halifax and none of these cities has something comparable to Montreal.
5) Concerning employment I may say nothing. You may visit site Emploi Quebec for some statistics but it is just statistics.

Good luck!!!

[cazelais]

Cost of living isn't too bad. Grocery prices are decent if you shop at Maxie's and the odd little Asian market. I shopped at Von's in Calli and thought it was much higher priced. Shelter is a real bargain compared to L.A. Keep in mind though that apts. in Mtl. are pretty low standard. 2 story with decent kitchen? 1-2 bathrooms. Well, sounds pricey but surely you may find a house or better still a condo to rent. There are many condo's here. More likely 900-1,200. It would be modern, clean and nice. You can also rent a 3 1/2 for about 500.00 easily enough. You don't have to put down first and last month rent. It is illegal for landlords to try. Montreal apts. work on 12 month lease and you have to give a three month notice to get out of it and some landlords would want you to find a tenant. Meaning sublet and you will be held responsible still for the lease.

My electrical (Hydro) is 120.00 and up usually per month for a 3 1/2 apt. I do a lot of cooking and use air conditioning in the summertime. Our summers are very hot and humid. Our Winters are very cold and heating goes on from end of Oct.-early April.

A lot of nice rental places and some crappy ones will not accept dogs. In general it isn't that bad here. More places accept cats than dogs. It might be harder to find a furnished place.

This place is fine for safety. I wouldn't worry about any area. It is a matter of preference. A happening area, a quiet area, economical ect. I think Montreal has it's problems but overall it is a decent enough place. It's a different world from L.A. It is a trendy place with increasingly a melting pot atmosphere of immigrants from around the world. Multi-cultural. French it is though mostly. It has great old buildings, good looking people, a lot of students, a lot of musicians and artists too. A lot of parks and a big old mountain in the middle of the city that you can see from anywhere downtown.
It is a sweet place but at times it can feel shoddy too. Aging infrastructure though you can still drink the tap water. There are many potholes in the road. Everybody smokes on busy streets so it sort of stinks. It is getting increasing crowded but compared to L.A. it is a cake walk. Look around on Craigslist. If that doesn't get deleted. Hope that helps.

[nickjbor]

A warning about montreal, and sorry for being so blunt, but it's easier then giving an entire list* but if you do not speak french, do not go to Montreal.

*Example of said list:
If you do not speak french, you'll have to live in the east, but know that the east has the worst transit, worst rents, worst wages, etc etc etc

[Kanopus]

[SIZE=-1]St. Laurent is a street that divides Montreal on east and west. Historically, as well as practically west part of Montreal is supposed to be anglophone (down-town in particular). Though, it is right that east part is some kind more shadier.
[/SIZE]

[cazelais]

People live and work in English only as well. You should learn or speak French but I know of people who don't. Americans telecommuting. One young fellow works for a gaming company. The east end is fine. There are some problems along Ontario street with the odd hookers and drug dealers but that doesn't mean you are going to get automatically assaulted. Unless you hang around street corners at 2:00 in the morning. Right now with Winter it is too cold to be standing around anywhere. The Winter will get to you more than anything else unless you like the cold and/or are use to it.

[robertpolyglot]

I am a native Californian that has also lived in the Northwest (near Canada) and also in Atlanta.

My verdict: I love Montreal. I have been 7 times. It is a unique and stunning city.

The reality: I've always considered living there, with this waning within the last 5 years. One cannot escape the reality that it is very cold (BRRRR) there. The few times I've driven on snow or ice, I can tell you this would cause me to "write off" any place in which I would have to do that. I don't do well in cold weather and, in one's later years, that problem will escalate. The upside is that it is a beautiful and interesting setting with pluralism that works well, probably unlike many places. I speak Italian, Spanish, French and Portuguese (it's a weird hobby, I know) and it is probably the only place in the world I could use all of them on a fairly regular basis...and have the advantage of staying in North America.

[palermodude]

You are about right for the rental price for a decent apartment. It is definitely cheaper than LA, but then salaries are lower too, and income tax is higher. The city is mostly safe - almost like a European city. Everyone has their preferences, I prefer living in the Plateau, but I can dig many places on the East side as well - even Hochelaga-Maisonneuve as I have a friend who found a great deal on a loft there.

You will only be there for 3-4 months and have pet? Well, then find a short-term apartment, plenty on craigslist, reasonable prices.

Montréal always ranks fairly higher than most US cities in international quality of life surveys.

I used to live there, it was an extremely positive experience. Although it's a big city, it felt village-like to me in many instances, albeit a global village.

Concerning the question "Does the city have lucrative industries for those in graphic design, art and publishing/editing professions? How well would or could those in these fields make a living?", I don't understand it - since you said you would only be there 3-4 months. Generally speaking, graphic design is an international business there with people working in both English and French. The art/publishing/editing industries are dominated by the French language, workwise.

The only reason I would hesitate moving back there is due to the long, freezing winter and short summer.

You did not say anything about your language skills, so I assume you can speak French.

[nickjbor]

I got my easts and wests confused.

West Montreal is where the anglo's live. I know many english people who live here, and even one person who lived here and who does not speak french - he has a job and an apartment, but he tells me that his lack of french holds him back. It's possible to move to Montreal without knowing french, but I would not recommend it. The problem is that the areas of Montreal where english is prime were developed more then 50 years ago, when it was the french in Quebec that were not seen well. The english built big houses (EG Westmount) but that does not lend itself well to renting.

[AsymptoticFaery]

I'd like to thank everyone, who has replied so far, for the wealth of info to consider.

Actually my French skills are beginner-intermediate, so I am definitely not fluent. However, I learn fast and have always wanted to and would like to expand my language skills. I figure this would be a good chance to do just in an organic context if I ever decide to move and live there someday. It's a good possibility. I'll have to research on what the immigration process would entail if my decisions leans in this direction.

For now, my questions relate to the temporary career developments of my fiance who will most likely have an internship here starting in June and until September. Unlike me, he is Canadian and originally from the White Rock area in BC. I am interested in finding out as much as I can.

Rather than living with him for the duration of his internship as we thought would happen, I will instead be visiting him often on weekends (now that we've talked about it more) when secures shelter in Montreal for and during his internship. During visitation, if I like the area greatly, then I might consider making a move there in the near future with him. So it would be a new experience for the both of us. More so for me, since it will be a move out of the United States.

I am an artist/illustrator/graphic designer so if most of the design firms in Montreal conduct business in French, then this is definitely something to think about...as I'd have to be near fluent (at least) in order to get a job there given that I'd make a move in the future. My fiance will also need to be near fluent as well since he currently works and will be working further in publishing/editing.

As I mentioned earlier, I'd be bringing my dog along for visits and she'd come along with me if I ever moved permanently. She is small in size (20-22lbs). I don't know much about the city's general social climate to and for pets. Are dogs very popular overall? I know some locations aren't as pet friendly or rather I should say...pet-oriented as others, so this is why I ask.

I have to admit I am -very- spoiled by Southern California weather. Very much so. It's generally a nice mix of Mediterranean and moderate desert climate, leaning more towards the latter as Northern California is a bit more Mediterranean. The weather is very nice for most of the year annually, so that would be a terribly missed element and as a result, I wouldn't enjoy the extreme cold so much. That will certainly be a climate shock for me.