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Old 12-15-2016, 06:32 AM
 
Location: United States of America
203 posts, read 436,024 times
Reputation: 160

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Hi, hoping to get this done fast and cheap. Any recommendations appreciated. Thanks!
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Old 12-15-2016, 08:08 AM
 
2,144 posts, read 2,339,193 times
Reputation: 3080
Shut off the cutoff valve to the irrigation system, set the pressure to XX lbs., go to most distant sprinkler head and drain a bit. Set the timer control to off.

What am I overlooking???
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Old 12-15-2016, 09:02 AM
 
Location: West Rowan , NC
66 posts, read 53,195 times
Reputation: 132
DIY

Irrigation Winterization Instructions:

Close Valve on Irrigation Meter at the street
Open Cover at Backflow Preventer
With a screwdriver, turn the small screw on the 4 test ports, 90 degrees to the left (this will open the valves and water will come out; leave them open)
Turn the 2 Ball valves on each side of the backflow to the closed position, then to open and repeat several times, this allows the water to escape behind the ball valves
Turn the 2 ball valve to a 45 degree angle, in between open and closed
Go to the controller and open the lowest zone in your yard and let run for 2 hours (water may or may not weep out)
Finally, turn off the controller to the off position

Spring opening:
Turn back on:
With a screwdriver, turn the small screw on the 4 test ports, 90 degrees to the right (this will close the valves)
Turn the irrigation meter back on
Set controller to run as desired
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Old 12-16-2016, 11:27 AM
 
Location: United States of America
203 posts, read 436,024 times
Reputation: 160
Quote:
Originally Posted by getatag View Post
Shut off the cutoff valve to the irrigation system, set the pressure to XX lbs., go to most distant sprinkler head and drain a bit. Set the timer control to off.

What am I overlooking???
You're overlooking my question.
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Old 12-16-2016, 11:54 AM
 
2,144 posts, read 2,339,193 times
Reputation: 3080
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregory P View Post
You're overlooking my question.
Sorry! You asked for a company and I realized how easy it was to winterize. My intention was to save you money, either by doing it yourself or gaining some insight into the total amount of work and thereby not getting ripped off for the job.
Again, sorry, but sometimes the written word doesn't connote true intentions.

I wish you luck in finding a company to perform your requested task.

peace!
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Old 12-17-2016, 09:49 AM
 
520 posts, read 296,202 times
Reputation: 924
Only proper way to winterize is to properly drain the system after shutting off supply valve.

And this is done with pressurized air, opening the sprinkler control valves with no air pressure will not do it.
Reason is that lower level tube will still be filled with water and upon freezing it will split.
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Old 12-19-2016, 05:38 AM
 
376 posts, read 222,051 times
Reputation: 342
Quote:
Originally Posted by 28079 View Post
Only proper way to winterize is to properly drain the system after shutting off supply valve. And this is done with pressurized air, opening the sprinkler control valves with no air pressure will not do it. Reason is that lower level tube will still be filled with water and upon freezing it will split.
Correct, to properly winterize a compressor is required to blow out the water. @28079 When you mention a "lower level pipe", are you referring to copper pipes feeding in to the reverse water back-flow prevention valve, or to below ground plastic PVC pipes?

Here in NC, many, perhaps most, people may wing it with hopes of no elongated, Artic express, cold periods way below freezing. Most years, Grey_Mama's helpful input may be, and possibly, could be sufficient. On the other hand, I'm familiar with one home where freezing temps caused the reverse, water back-flow prevention valve to crack (replacement part alone about $175 HD + whatever a plumber or irrigation guru may charge, or try to gouge, you for repairs -- IF you can't install it yourself).

Last edited by Laowai; 12-19-2016 at 05:52 AM..
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Old 12-19-2016, 09:24 AM
 
520 posts, read 296,202 times
Reputation: 924
Quote:
Originally Posted by Laowai View Post
Correct, to properly winterize a compressor is required to blow out the water. @28079 When you mention a "lower level pipe", are you referring to copper pipes feeding in to the reverse water back-flow prevention valve, or to below ground plastic PVC pipes?

Here in NC, many, perhaps most, people may wing it with hopes of no elongated, Artic express, cold periods way below freezing. Most years, Grey_Mama's helpful input may be, and possibly, could be sufficient. On the other hand, I'm familiar with one home where freezing temps caused the reverse, water back-flow prevention valve to crack (replacement part alone about $175 HD + whatever a plumber or irrigation guru may charge, or try to gouge, you for repairs -- IF you can't install it yourself).
lower level piping - any part of the irrigation system which is located below the lowest drain level (hence will not drain unless forced air is pushed through the system)
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Old 12-20-2016, 02:34 PM
 
376 posts, read 222,051 times
Reputation: 342
Quote:
Originally Posted by 28079 View Post
lower level piping - any part of the irrigation system which is located below the lowest drain level (hence will not drain unless forced air is pushed through the system)
@28079 So, when you mention a "lower level pipe", it's now understood you referred to ANY pipes (including copper, plastic PVC, or any pipe of any other composition) be they feeding in to the reverse water back-flow prevention valve OR to any below ground plastic PVC pipes laying at a lower point than the lowest drain level. Whether people take zero proactive actions or not to winterize their irrigation systems or not, your helpful clarification is appreciated (at least by one person).

For at least one winter sometime in the past, prior owners of our house winged it (i.e., no winterization effort). Result: Above-ground, reverse back-flow valve burst.

While none of our below ground PVC pipes busted (lucky?), neither a pre-home purchase plumbing inspection nor structural inspection identified in retrospect an apparent reverse water back-flow crack. Then again, the home purchaser (me) naively missed it as well. Result: Opportunities for avoidable expense, and otherwise avoidable new homeowner labor to fix the valve missed.

Blowing out the pipes isn't too challenging with your own or a rented compressor, plenty of related videos exist online, yet watching a purported irrigation guru do it once may help. Just be sure to get their total fee in writing in advance, and tell 'em to pound sand if they think they're charging extra just for showing up (only the quick maintenance cost, no appearance fees). From prior research, some irrigation guys may try to charge whatever they can get away with from potentially gullible people. If you cannot do the work or down have the time or inclination, locking down fees in advance is the only common sense way.

Thanks for your help, and for alerting others to a possibility in unusually colder than typical NC winters.
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Old 12-29-2016, 02:17 PM
 
172 posts, read 240,700 times
Reputation: 64
If we pay someone to blow out the system how much can we expect to pay? Also do we have to pay again to startup the sprinkler or can we do it on our own?
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