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I am in the process of comparing prices for Crown Molding Installation. I had a guy quote me $3/ foot. That is for labor only. Is that a good price? Also, how much do Granite Countertops typically go for? Price range?? Any places you can refer would be great. Also, any referralls for crown molding / painting would be good too. Thanks in advance for all of your help!
Install it yourself!!! If you are doing much moulding . . . buy a mitre saw. Go to Lowes or Home Depot, buy your moulding, paint it . . . cut and install. This is one of the easiest DIY projects ever and very inexpensive to do yourself.
Install it yourself!!! If you are doing much moulding . . . buy a mitre saw. Go to Lowes or Home Depot, buy your moulding, paint it . . . cut and install. This is one of the easiest DIY projects ever and very inexpensive to do yourself.
Yep, it just takes some patience. You can use a miter saw or coping saw, I think the miter would be easier but with a coping saw you may get better results. Other than getting the corners right, most of the work is in the finishing. Patching nail holes, sanding, painting, and in our case (since the walls/ceiling are not quite flat) caulking above and below to fill in the gap.
If you decide to give it a go, let me know if you have questions!
I'll give a shout out to The Building Center in Pineville, it's close to Carolina place. They have a wonderful supply of mouldings and had the exact match of our chair rail that the builders had used. I have been up their 3 times and they have been very nice and helpful.
How do you install the molding without a pnuematic nail gun? Or do you all have pnuematic nailers. I'm going to be getting a big compressor (garage vertical 60 gallon) at some point and would get the nail guns afterwards but I was thinking about putting some molding up now.
How do you install the molding without a pnuematic nail gun? Or do you all have pnuematic nailers. I'm going to be getting a big compressor (garage vertical 60 gallon) at some point and would get the nail guns afterwards but I was thinking about putting some molding up now.
We have done it w/o pneumatic gun, but then for the last round of installation, bought a small portable one. It was not expensive.
How do you install the molding without a pnuematic nail gun? Or do you all have pnuematic nailers. I'm going to be getting a big compressor (garage vertical 60 gallon) at some point and would get the nail guns afterwards but I was thinking about putting some molding up now.
You just use the finishing nails (not sure if there's a technical name... they're the skinny ones with no heads). Hammer them in with a small hammer and then you get a little hand-held punch that will cost $5 (again, not sure the technical name). It has a pointy part that you hold against each nail while hammering the end. This sinks the nails in enough so that you can patch the holes. Will be MUCH easier with a nail gun though.
How do you install the molding without a pnuematic nail gun? Or do you all have pnuematic nailers. I'm going to be getting a big compressor (garage vertical 60 gallon) at some point and would get the nail guns afterwards but I was thinking about putting some molding up now.
DH has an air compressor and nail gun. He also got a little portable compressor from my granddad, fills it up with the large one and away he goes.
Laser lever is also another great gadet to have. I think it would be easier to name what DH doesn't have.
If you are installing crown molding that extends 2-3" down the wall and extends 2-3" onto the ceiling (typical installation), I would not attempt it unless you are more than an occasional do it yourselfer. The corner cuts are not regular 45 degree miter cuts for inside and outside corners. It is also difficult for the average person to accurately measure the correct length. You can google "installing crown molding" and see the proper procedure.
Lowe's and others sell pre assembled inside and outside corners and you can then cut and fit a long piece of the crown molding between the corners. Unless each piece is mitered to where it connects with the adjoining piece, I can guarantee that you will have separation marks (cracks) developing very shortly. This occurs due to house settling and the shrinkage of the newly installed wood.
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