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I began getting the P1495 code weeks back, which is for a faulty leak detection pump. The part has been replaced, but the repair shop could not get the check engine light to turn off. They said it was a manufacturer code, and to try going to Chrysler. I don't have much money, and have seen stories of how people will pay 100 dollars to have the dealership tell them something insignificant. I have been trying to do the drive cycle to get the code to clear out of the system, yet its been a few days and I cannot get it to work. My inspection runs out tomorrow, and I do not know what to do.
A drive cycle is used to make sure that the light does not come back on, once the problem is fixed and the code has been cleared. Yes, some things will trigger the MIL and then reset itself when the problem is fixed, but some will not reset without the scan tool/programmer. I would try taking my receipt to the dealer and explain the situation. They probably will charge you one hour of labor, maybe a half if you're lucky. That will cover diagnostic/clearing the light if they find no other reason it is on. By law, they cannot clear the light if there is a problem still and no repairs have been performed. Hope this helps.
Clearing the code by whatever method does not mean the light will not come on again after the computer recycles. You cant have the car inspected while its in this mode..After driving the car and the light comes back on it means the problem or problems have not been fixed. Often the trouble code will just point to an area of the OBD11 system causing the problem. If it says "a sensor" it could mean its a bad wire OR a bad sensor. It takes a mechanic to determine just what needs to be replaced much of the time.
Clearing the code by whatever method does not mean the light will not come on again after the computer recycles. You cant have the car inspected while its in this mode..After driving the car and the light comes back on it means the problem or problems have not been fixed. Often the trouble code will just point to an area of the OBD11 system causing the problem. If it says "a sensor" it could mean its a bad wire OR a bad sensor. It takes a mechanic to determine just what needs to be replaced much of the time.
And sometimes a mechanic can't figure it out either. I have a 97 Mustang that I've had 3 different mechanics look at, but no one can figure what causes the check engine light to come on. The code is for "running rich, bank II". Several hundred dollars later in "repairs" and it still comes on. Every mechanic that has looked at the car just ends up saying "I give up, everything is testing fine, I don't know why it keeps coming on!" One even came to the conclusion that the computer was going bad because there was no other explanation. Sure, whatever.
It has been like this for YEARS, but the car still runs strong whether the light is on or off. I gave up too and just don't care anymore, but it's a pain when it's time for inspection. I do have to disconnect the battery to reset the light, and fortunately I can usually drive it several miles before the light comes back, which is enough to get it to pass the inspection.
And sometimes a mechanic can't figure it out either. I have a 97 Mustang that I've had 3 different mechanics look at, but no one can figure what causes the check engine light to come on. The code is for "running rich, bank II". Several hundred dollars later in "repairs" and it still comes on. Every mechanic that has looked at the car just ends up saying "I give up, everything is testing fine, I don't know why it keeps coming on!" One even came to the conclusion that the computer was going bad because there was no other explanation. Sure, whatever.
It has been like this for YEARS, but the car still runs strong whether the light is on or off. I gave up too and just don't care anymore, but it's a pain when it's time for inspection. I do have to disconnect the battery to reset the light, and fortunately I can usually drive it several miles before the light comes back, which is enough to get it to pass the inspection.
Ive never heard of a car in the "cycle mood" passing because the computer indicates its not ready . However if you can get it to pass.great
The OBD11 system is standard on all cars made in 1996 and later. It makes all cars uniform which is good. The OBD11 system is simple as long as it is working but can become a big pain in the arse even for a pro to fix sometimes. Alot of people get ripped off paying others to "fix" the check engine light being on and the bad thing about it is the owner of the car almost has to fully understand how the system works to avoid it. Most dont.If I paid for a fix it would be best to ask just what was wrong and to see any parts that had to be replaced. If your CEL is on its best to go to a place like autozone and get a free scan and the code it shows. Then go home and look up the code and the indicators it shows on the net and then google the code and your car model. By doing this you can zero in on what has to be done to fix your car without depending on just the word of some guy at a repair shop. It can save you alot of money.. good luck
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