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Old 05-07-2012, 01:57 PM
 
Location: Lead/Deadwood, SD
948 posts, read 2,394,719 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by howard555 View Post
I thought digital camera prices would have come down, over the years.
My vintage Vivitar cost me around $65.00 on a one day, $20 off sale.

I just glanced at Staples and their lowest priced one is $99.00, Fuji I think.
I would bet good money that the 2002 $85 dollar vivitar is no where near the camera the $99 fuji of today is.

With all cameras when taking closeups you need to find something to stabilize yourself and the camera - the slightest movement will make colseups blurry while having little effect on distant photos. Setting the camera for the fastest shutter rate (most light) that will still work to get the pic will help as well. When taking indoor close-ups instead of adjusting the camera to accommodate for less light, it is wiser to add light so the shutter isn't open too long allowing for motion blur.
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Old 05-07-2012, 02:01 PM
 
Location: God's Gift to Mankind for flying anything
5,370 posts, read 11,272,073 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NHDave View Post
I believe the common term for that is a conditioner.
May well be and I really do not care what the precise name is.
The name on the doohicky, has the word *Cycle* as part of the name on the thingy, and the catalog also calls it a cycler ...
One of the buttons also has the word *Cycle* on it ...
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Old 05-07-2012, 02:06 PM
 
10,752 posts, read 17,997,204 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irman View Post
May well be and I really do not care what the precise name is.
Yes, god forbid you should learn anything
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Old 05-07-2012, 07:01 PM
 
40,161 posts, read 41,766,549 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by howard555 View Post
I thought digital camera prices would have come down, over the years.
My vintage Vivitar cost me around $65.00 on a one day, $20 off sale.
You need to compare apples ro apples, Best Buy has a 7MP Vivitar listed for $40.

Vivitar - 7.0-Megapixel Digital Camera - Black - V7020-BLACK (http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Vivitar+-+7.0-Megapixel+Digital+Camera+-+Black/2220042.p?id=1218315026063&skuId=2220042 - broken link)

If you look at the reviews it has some very poor image quality which I would tend to believe. Frankly I'd spend a little more and get a decent camera. Research for best bang for your buck.

Me personally since I've had so much luck with their other products I'd be looking at Canons.

Canon - PowerShot A2200 14.1-Megapixel Digital Camera - Black - PowerShot A2200 Black (http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Canon+-+PowerShot+A2200+14.1-Megapixel+Digital+Camera+-+Black/2044265.p?id=1218306949830&skuId=2044265 - broken link)
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Old 05-07-2012, 09:54 PM
 
Location: God's Gift to Mankind for flying anything
5,370 posts, read 11,272,073 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NHDave View Post
Yes, god forbid you should learn anything
Uhuh, maybe you are right ..
But apparently a conditioner does a different job on a battery then what a cycler does ...

The *cycler* I have just applies a load on the battery to a certain preset level, then charges it again to the maximum capacity.
Nothing more nothing less.
A *conditioner* on the other hand does a hell of lot more than just what that thingy does that I have ...

So now what ???
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Old 05-08-2012, 06:10 AM
 
10,752 posts, read 17,997,204 times
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If that's the case then I have learned something.
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Old 05-08-2012, 06:42 AM
 
Location: God's Gift to Mankind for flying anything
5,370 posts, read 11,272,073 times
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I read up some more about *conditioners*.

Apparently as usual, one has to watch when investing in one of them ...
===
There are several types of battery conditioners on the market, so be sure to read the fine print. Very inexpensive models might be marketed as battery conditioners when they are actually simple trickle chargers, some of which even lack the built-in feature of switching off when the battery is fully charged. Others might lack the ability to recondition a moderately sulfated battery, and are better suited to using with a newer battery that has not yet been compromised by sulfation.
===

Am I right in assuming that Conditioners thus only work on lead acid batteries, i.o.w. , *wet* ones ?

On my Ultra Light (uses a regular lead acid battery), I do use a rather inexpensive trickle charger, which *according to the specs* only sends a very small amount of power to the battery, but I can see that after a while it does turn off. Light is red when I first turn it on, and then turns green after about 1/2 an hour or so. I doubt if the thingy is really a Conditioner, although it was advertised as a *Battery Tender* (another term to deal with ...)
<<<Battery Tender makes a less expensive, comparable model without the reconditioning feature.>>>
A good Conditioner is about 50 green ones, and mine (Battery Tender) was just a bit over 10 dollars.

The whole *Cycler mania* in the RC world comes from the *fear* of running out of juice during flight. So any time when the needle on the battery meter moves towards red, we change battery packs.
From several sources, we have-learned/are-warned about Battery memory, and thus are *steered* to Battery Cyclers which discharge the battery first and then send a controlled low voltage to recharge the batteries again to full capacity.
When I still had my bulky old digital, I *invested* in 2 good sets of NimH rechargeables, and bought a small *case*, which could hold all four of them at once. Then used the cycler I have, to recharge them when they ran out of oomph . My cycler uses either a 12 vdc or a 110 vac input. Why these buggers are so expensive, who knows ...

My recent camera uses a LiIon battery which has its own charger. I have an extra one for that camera, but use the external power source for filming during flight.

In the RC world, we have gone to Lipo batteries, again with their own chargers and *explosion proof* holding cases during charge. What we like about those is the fact that their size is small (relatively), and can hold their charge almost indefinitely.

My apologies for going a bit off topic here.
As a matter of fact, those who use a laptop, are often adviced to *re-calibrate* (yet another term for something akin ...) their internal batteries.
Check you manual for that function, and if it is not there, then what it entails is using the laptop after it is fully charged, just with the battery power only, without having the wall-wart plugged in. Then use it like that, until it goes to sleep to *save* the battery. Then plug it in again until it is again fully charged (one can still operate the laptop while it recharges !)
In my book, I call that cycling manually (making sure it drains to the lowest possible safe level of power available).

So now we have *Cycling*, *Conditioning*, *Tending*, *Re-calibrating*.
All related to keeping your battery at its peak of operating power !

Last edited by irman; 05-08-2012 at 07:33 AM..
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Old 05-08-2012, 07:37 PM
 
10,953 posts, read 15,236,538 times
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Here is an interesting comment:

Your best bet is a camera that interchangeably supports rechargeables and long-life disposables.

It gives the advantages and disadvantages of disposables, rechargeables, and model specific.

Digital camera buying guide - CNET Reviews
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Old 05-08-2012, 10:45 PM
 
Location: God's Gift to Mankind for flying anything
5,370 posts, read 11,272,073 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by howard555 View Post
interchangeably supports rechargeables and long-life disposables.
Sadly, because of the physical size of that kind of batteries *AA* (I have not seen cameras that take AAA size batteries, which does not mean they are not there), the more modern small one can not use those.

I also have not seen that many modern small cameras that have an external power source option.
When I shopped for mine, that was one of the features I insisted on !

LBNL, the small thin size of the newer cameras, also eliminated any view finder, and only have the preview window, which often is hard to see in bright sunlight ...
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Old 05-30-2012, 10:17 PM
 
Location: Wyoming
9,573 posts, read 17,747,372 times
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You're using it for eBay selling. You need a new, better camera. Vivitar is one of the worst brands you could pick. Read up on those buying guides and select a decent brand -- Canon, Nikon, Sony, Panasonic, etc. Expect to pay $150 or so for a good, inexpensive camera. Most will focus down to an inch or two. Contrary to an earlier post, for closest focusing, you'll want a zoom lens set to wide angle, but if you don't need to be that close, lighting is easier if you step back and zoom in.

I prefer cameras with proprietary batteries. Their price is higher, but it includes a rechargeable battery and a charger. You may want an extra battery, and eventually the batteries wear out and will need to be replaced, but most are not terribly expensive. I had to replace the original one for my professional grade SLR camera last fall. It was 7 years old and had recorded 30-40,000 images by then. When new it would last for 1000+ images on a charge, and that included swinging a big mirror and shutter open and closed for each shot and often zooming a large lens. Of course it's also a big and rather expensive battery (around $100).

The smaller batteries for point and shoot cameras cost much less but vary in price, and the cameras also vary in how many pictures they'll record per charge, but most all that information should be readily available to you. All of them should make hundreds of exposures per charge, however, or last for a few weeks before they run down.

It doesn't sound like you need this, but if you want a little camera that'll fit a shirt pocket, think proprietary battery. Cameras can be slimmer and lighter without a pair of AAs for power.

There are advantages to the AA-powered cameras, such as always being able to find a battery for it. They're also normally a little cheaper, mainly because they don't include a charger and battery.

As others here have already posted, for extreme close-ups you should have a small tripod to set the camera on. Holding it in your hands for macro photography just doesn't work, but if you're only needing to get within 12" of your product, you might get by. Good lighting is also essential.

I haven't been on eBay much lately, but you used to be able to get excellent advice on the photo chat board there, from recommendations on camera models to technique.

Good luck!
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