Beginner adult. Best low price road bike

[jade408]

I'd take a step back and think about how you plan to use it. I have a hybrid bike that is basically retired. I didn't ride mountains, but that was the type of bike that you got when I got it. Purchased from a former coworker.

I wanted a bike to ride around town and thought it would fit the bill. I was later was retired from reasons from lack of space to really feeling like I needed to gear up to ride my bike to the store.

I thought the only bikes available were road, mountain or hybrid.

I acquired a new bike just recently. This one is much different that the bikes of my youth (I had mountain, and my dad had a 70s racer I road).

My new bike is a "city bike" with upright seating chain guards and fenders. I added racks, lights and a basket. It is also the first bike I've had without a diamond frame since I was 12, it has a step through frame,

It looks like a cruiser, but I have 7 internal gears. But the biggest thing is the chain guard which protects your clotting from the messy chain. And now I am free to ride by bike in my normal clothing. And by this I mean non athletic gear. With the rack/baskets/bungee cords I can bring my normal purse and attach a load of groceries.

I am not riding my bike for "leisure" but an alternative mode of transportation for my basic errands.

Throwing this out there because I know lots of people get a bike to get in shape....and sometimes it is easier to make time if it is combined with something else. This Saturday I clocked in 8 miles between the library, pharmacy, groceries, coffee, picking up takeout and a little shopping.

You can bike for exercise or even transportation

[Cyborgt800]

I believe there's a law that says if you have grey facial hail you must ride a recumbent bike...

[Linda Richards]

If you're a "mature" adult that is just looking for a very comfortable and stable bicycle, yet inexpensive bike, that you can ride leisurely on the road and anywhere else that has pavement, or paved paths, LOOK FOR ANCIENT USED Schwinn Collegiate FIVE SPEED from 1970, 1971, 1972, 1973,1974,1975, and 1976.

Why a 40 pound Steel Framed, Chicago SCHWINN with One-Piece ASHTABULA Crank, and Steel 26" (37-597) wheels/tire?

Answer: Because the FIVE SPEED Collegiate of those years are UNBREAKABLE, Easy To Grease and Replace The Bearings, and because they feature SHIMANO rear derailleurs (GT-100 Schwinn Approved for the 1970 through early 1974 models) ---- ( GT-120 Schwinn Approved for 1974 - 1976 )

It is extremely simple to adjust those should you need to adjust the derailleur.
Since you have just the single 46 TEETH front chain crank, THERE IS NO FRONT DERAILLEUR.
FIVE GEARS are all you are likely to need.
The gearing on those 1970 and later Schwinn Collegiate FIVE SPEED bikes are excellent.
You have a 26" bicycle wheel and your FIVE rear sprocket gears are 32, 26, 21, 17, 14
and the 46T front crank.

The Collegiate FIVE SPEED was produced in Chicago from 1964 to around 1980.
Collegiate after 1976, lost their classic Schwinn decal graphics that the 1964 -1976 models have.
The 1964-1969 Collegiate is less desireable only because the French made Derailleur isn't as reliable or durable as the Japanese made Derailleur on the 1970 and later Collegiate Five Speed & Suburban Five Speed.
Speaking of the SUBURBAN five speed (1970-1976), it like the Collegiate five speed is nearly indestructible.
Introduced in 1970 the SUBURBAN replaced the Varsity Tourist Model. The difference is that the '70 Suburban like the '70 Collegiate were the first SCHWINNS to have SHIMANO gears and GT-100 derailleur rather than the FRENCH Huret Alvit Schwinn Approved rear derailleur of the Varsity.
The SUBURBAN Five Speed has the same rear sprocket gears as the Collegiate and the same 46 TEETH front crank-------------rear gears 32, 26, 21, 17, 14----------------------The Difference is the SUBURBAN five speed has standard 27" bicycle wheel (32-630 tire).
The Collegiate has a wider tire that gives a very comfortable tire and a 26" wheel that is easier to get going than the 27 inch.
The SUBURBAN has the tubular front fork of the Schwinn Continental, while the Collegiate has the Ashtabula blade fork like the Varsity.
I don't remember any SUBURBAN five speeds of (1970-1976) that had anything other than Upright-North Road handlebars.
The Collegiate SPORT five speed came with racing handlebars, racing saddle, rat traps and no fenders.
The Collegiate SPORT was only available in MEN's frame until the WOMEN's Collegiate Sport became available in 1975 or very late 1974.
The Collegiate was available in men's and Women (step thru) frames in various frame sizes.
The listed frame size in the Schwinn Catalog is measurement from center of the bottom bracket(crank) to the seat post clamp.
SEE:
Schwinn Lightweight Data Book (Detail 1970-1974)
Schwinn Lightweight Data Book (Detail 1975-1979)

You should also find a copy of GLENN'S COMPLETE BICYCLE MANUAL by Clarence W. Coles and Harold T. Glenn (C)1973 printings 1973,1974,1975,1976 (there are many thousands of copies----you likely can find it for about $4 on Ebay)

One important note is that the SCHWINN COLLEGIATE has a unique 26 inch Tire which is 37-597 and it is only made by KENDA. The good news is that KENDA makes both the blackwall and gumwall versions, though gumwall might be more likely to be sold out with those suppliers. Nothing other than the 597mm tire will fit the Collegiate of 1964-1976. These brand new KENDA tires are affordable and can be found online for less than $20.

You will not find a better, general purpose, leisure road bike than the 1970-1976 Schwinn Collegiate five speed. You should be able to find a good, rideable Collegiate for between $35 and $85.
My Local Bike Store will replace a chain for $16 ($!0 for new chain and $6 installation)
We own several Collegiates and Suburbans and keep them at our house and vacation home. We have enough so that friends/guests can ride around. The collection contains the many colors and both women's and men's and tourist and sport models in various sizes. All are five speeds.
We even have a Varsity or two that we swapped to a single 46tooth front crank and a Shimano Eagle or Lark rear derailleur.......eliminated the front derailleur ...converted the varsity to 5 speed, ala the SUBURBAN.

There is no argument that these Lightweight SCHWINN bikes are heavy at 40 pounds but if you don't need to go fast uphill, they will do the job fine for leisure riding. The brakes are fine except in wet weather and then you must anticipate and ride very carefully as steel chrome wheels when soaking wet do not grip the brake pads very well............if dry, braking is very good.
Cables, brake pads and everything is inexpensive. Replacement bearings are inexpensive too.
Simple To Do It Yourself, because if my husband can do it, any numbskull can with that GLENN's Manual or some web link or youtube. Only very basic tools are required on these ancient Schwinns.
You cannot break the solid one piece Ashtabula crank. Heavy isn't all that bad if it's unbreakable and durable.

Now if you're a Greg Lemond or Lance Armstrong wannabee, and wish to wear the latest goofy biking gear and yellow jersey, you do not want to be caught dead on a heavy ancient gaspipe Schwinn because your pals might not want to be seen with you and your Schwinn.

Those ancient 1970-1976 Collegiates and Suburban FIVE SPEEDS are fantastic all purpose leisure bicycles.
They have fantastic durability and are extremely simple for anyone to do it yourself-adjustments.
No new bikes are as durable.
Yes they are 40 pounds of Chicago steel and have simple primitive friction shifting but Shimano built derailleurs are fantastic because they have huge bashguards that keep them protected. A bicycle racer would argue that bashguard protection adds weight to the derailleur and that is correct but what is a 1/4 pound on a non-racer bicycle.

Search and GOOGLE more about these FIVE SPEEDS. They are way better than anything you'll find at Target or Walmart. Five Speed is simple. Five is way better than a fixie or 3 speed! Five is so simple a cave man could do it.

I'm not saying these ancient Schwinn bikes are better than quality new technology lightweight racing bikes because they are not. These ancient Schwinns were significantly heavier than their European competitors in the sixties and seventies, so they were never lightweight speed kings.
The only advantage that these ancient Schwinns had was DURABILITY and RIDE COMFORT.
Even today, there is nothing necessarilly wrong with DURABILTY and RIDE COMFORT if you don't need lightweight for hill climbs, speed and the lastest rage in cool.
If you just need a decent basic bicycle to ride, the ancient SCHWINN COLLEGIATE is a great choice.
If you want something competitive, a Chicago SCHWINN is not for you.

Too many people overlook old Schwinn "lightweights" because of their weight.
They are bikes that will ride and roll.
Durability of new $350 bikes will not come close to that of a 1974 Schwinn.

For around $100 total cost, you can find an old Schwinn Collegiate / Suburban --install new tires, tubes, brake pads, grease................
You can get plenty of exercise on such an ancient "lightweight" Schwinn.
They are good durable basic bicycles. I, like other fellow baby boomers bought them in 1971 after graduating from college. If you need only a basic bike, you won't do any better than a 5 speed Collegiate of the 1970-1976 vintage. DO NOT THINK OF UPGRADING SUCH A SCHWINN! Just use it for what it is. Don't try to have it go on a weight loss plan. If you want a twenty-five pound bicycle, then start with something that could be realistically-cost effectively upgraded to weigh 25 pounds.
Don't laugh because those ancient Schwinn "lightweight" heavies are better bicycles than most folks think. Bicycle riding isn't all about riding a 30 pound or less racing bike, dressed in yellow and black spandex. For some folks an ancient durable Schwinn is all that they might need.

Lastly, LET ME TELL YOU HOW TO IDENTIFY the YEAR model on these 1970-1976 Schwinns:
Serial Number is NEAR THE Oval SCHWINN head tube badge.
Two letters preceed the numbers.
The First Letter is the MONTH that the bike was produced, A=January, B=Feb, etc
The Second Letter is YEAR produced.
F=1970
G=1971
H=1972
J=1973
K=1974
L=1975
M=1976
you'll notice for year code, that I is not used because it looks like the number one.

[RP2C]

Originally Posted by Linda Richards

If you're a "mature" adult that is just looking for a very comfortable and stable bicycle, yet inexpensive bike, that you can ride leisurely on the road and anywhere else that has pavement, or paved paths, LOOK FOR ANCIENT USED Schwinn Collegiate FIVE SPEED from 1970, 1971, 1972, 1973,1974,1975, and 1976....

It's nice to see someone so passionate about the practicality and quality of "classic" Schwinns. I got my "Schwinn Factory Trained Mechanic" status in the "80's - training in their Cranberry New Jersey location. I worked as a mechanic/sales for many years even when going to school. Even by then, however, that "Schwinn Quality" was starting to waver a bit. It was a pleasure to work on the "old Schwinns" (and other bikes) that came in for repair. I was still rebuilding 3-speed hubs! Now it'd be more cost-effective to buy a new wheel or department store bike!

I second the opinion of a solid, maintainable classic. The only problem I might see is finding tires if the bike has the 26x 1- 3/8 S-6 type; although you can still buy them, they might not be as easy to find at your LBS.

Just wondering... did you (or do you) own one of those Collegiates?

[Retired in Illinois]

Originally Posted by huffbufer

I am currently getting up in my age and running is awful on my knees. I used to bike a lot as a young lad but havent had much interest in my adult life. Could someone recommend a good quality /lower price bike for a beginner?

Regards
Huffbufer

Since you don't state your age to get a complete picture of bike choices consider a tricycle (trike) for adults for maximum comfort as well as long term balance solution. It's not wise to limit your choice to a bicycle alone.

I restarted cycling about 15 years ago (age 72 now) with an adult trike then followed that up with a heavy duty cruiser. The trike I use mostly as every day ride cause I have balance issues from time to time. I ride it 'cause its way more comfortable for me when I tool around on a lazy ride. The cruiser doesn't get much use now due to a period lately of balance problems.. I know now that I could never ride a "road bike" again.

So my advice is to start for comfort with a adult trike and move on from there if you want to.

Choosing the best adult tricycle made easy

https://adulttricyclespro.com/

[vladlensky]

Hi OP,

If you're just getting back into cycling, you might consider a hybrid. I don't mean the 'hybrid' that you buy at Walmart or at the local bike stores, but a hybrid in the sense that you buy a good frame which has options to swap out the handlebars, gearing, tire size, etc as your needs and interests change.

Personally, I would recommend getting something like a Surly Crosscheck, which is a cyclocross frame with a lot of flexibility to easily be setup like a road bike with skinny tires and drop handlebars, or, alternatively, you can slap some upright handlebars and fatter city tires/fenders on it for a more comfortable riding position or a great go-getter around town bike. It can even be configured as a mountain/trail riding bike, or if you're feeling crazy, a fat-tire snow bike. The frame is steel and runs about $450; though used frames and complete bikes are very obtainable from sources like Ebay or Craigslist. It has a ton of attachment points to add baskets, fenders and racks front and aft as well as water bottle cages and anything else you ever could want.

One great thing is if you buy the frame, you'll have the option to cut the stem to your preferred riding height. A lot of 'out of the box' road bikes have the stem cut so short that you're forced to adopt a pretty aggressive riding posture, which can be off-putting and uncomfortable as a beginning rider. My spouse and I both have our Surlys setup with longer stems and plenty of spacers, which can be moved around to achieve varying levels of bar height. A higher handlebar on a drop bar bike will also take a lot of pressure off your hands and wrists on longer rides as well. Coupled with a good quality seat and proper adjustments, you'll be able to spend a lot of time riding to and fro if you take the fit into consideration.

I have 3 different bicycles at home (a Brompton folding bike, a 1970's Raleigh roadster, and a Surly Straggler). If I had to pick just one bike and lived in a fairly suburban/open area I would pick the Surly and sell the others.

I've included a couple links below showing some of the configurations that are possible. Best of luck in getting back to cycling, it's a really fun sport!

Signed,

-Someone who owns way too many bicycles


Photos of various Surly Crosscheck configurations as a road/city/upright/touring bike

[turf3]

I definitely would not recommend a 40+ pound Schwinn Gaspipe-inental.

I would second the recommendation of the Surly Cross-Check, but note that by the time you turn it into a complete bike you're going to be spending close to $1000. I expect the very lowest you can get a reasonable quality bicycle for will be in the $400-500 range. From that to $1000 is a pretty big jump.

For what it's worth my main bicycle is a Cross-check and I have been avidly riding for over 40 years; and I have the financial resources to buy a much more expensive bike if I wanted to.

[Pilot1]

Originally Posted by turf3

I definitely would not recommend a 40+ pound Schwinn Gaspipe-inental.

I wouldn't either. I had a 1971 or so Schwinn "Super Sport" ten speed as a youngster. It was like riding a lead torture machine from a Kafka novel. I couldn't believe how bike riding was really fun, and rewarding years later when I got my Cannondale. Night and day.

[vwgto]

Shop around for a gently used bike (an old Trek, as an example) @ 1/3 to 1/4 of new price. The biggest issue, as mentioned here, is the good intentions that never materialize. If you end-up tiring of the hobby quickly, or stick with it and want to upgrade later, you can probably get close to your money back on resale.

[getatag]

I have many bikes. [Schwinn(2), Kestrel(3), Raleigh(2), Cannonade(1), Serotta(1), Santana(3), Klein(1), Franklin(1), Quinn(1), Proflex(1), Trek(1), Performance(1), Mongoose(1)] They run the gamut from very cheap to stupidly expensive. Linda R. is correct about choice of bikes for everyday cruising.

My bikes are well maintained, but if I had to get an everyday cruiser type that would stand the test of time with very little maintenance and be available for short rides around the neighborhood or to the store, then the older Schwinns would be my choice. Built heavy, but built to last.