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Old 12-07-2006, 02:19 PM
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Default Just Moved to Denver Area, Need Help Please!!!

My wife and I just moved to the Denver area after leaving our Manhattan Greenwich Village apartment for a five-month European backpacking trip. Now, we're settling in the Denver area and need help!

Though we don't know where we'll be working yet, and we don't know if or when I'll be starting grad school (probably in Boulder), we are having a difficult time figuring out an area in which we want to live. Our first year we plan to rent, and then eventually buy once we figure out the lay of the land.

So, does anyone know of the best areas for us to rent? We are looking to spend around 1000 a month, will only have one car, and NEED to be in an area where we can walk to coffeeshops, bars, restaurants, bookstores, a bakery for fresh bread, etc. This is the number one priority. We need a neighborhood with character.

Here are the areas we have looked at so far with what we know about them. Any other suggestions or any additional information would be helpful:

The Highlands - We are beginning to look at places around the Highland Square area near 32nd and Lowell. We really like this area with all of its restaurants, coffeeshops, taverns, etc, but seem to be having a somewhat difficult time fining places to rent. Most places seem to be for sale. We would like a two bedroom place, or at the very least, a large one bedroom.

LoDo and downtown Denver - While this area is certainly walkable, it is too urban for us. We are moving from NYC, and not to offend anyone, don't really feel like taking a step down in an urban environment. Once you've lived in Manhattan, it's hard to move to another downtown environment w/o it feeling like it's lacking something. We realize the Denver area is not and never will be NYC, but are looking for some similar attributes.

Boulder - Originally this was our number one choice, but a few things might be leading us away from moving there. Number one is the commute to Denver if one or both of us winds up working in Denver. Number two is the Republic of Boulder mentality, which many have warned us against. Others have said it has an NYC mentality, so I'm kind of confused. We are 100 percent grade A bluestaters, so any sort of liberal vibe is not only OK with us, it would be welcome. What I don't and won't deal with, though, is pretension and the I'm-more-physically-fit-than-you crap. Being healthy is fine. That's why we're moving to Colorado, to change our way of life. Boulder also seems like it might offer a more artistic scene. I am a painter and writer, and will more than likely go to grad school for an MFA in creative writing, so an artistic and literary scene is also important.

Golden - I absolutely love the main drag in Golden. It has a unique feel that is 180 degrees from NYC. As I said above, we're not really looking for another NYC, but something that has unique character and attributes. People tell me that Golden, being only a short ride from downtown Denver, is an up and coming area. I've heard Goldenites don't like to be considered a suburb, but it seems like such an original-type place that is within suburb distance from Denver. I've also heard that it is a good place to buy since it seems to be up and coming. Can anyone confirm the investment potential? We're probably looking to buy after our first 6-month to 1-year lease expires.

Stapleton - We are currently staying in Stapleton while we make our decisions on where to live. I like the fact that there is a nice walking distance type main street, but this is the exact opposite of the type of place we'd like to live. The houses all look the same, and the only options for retail and dining in the area are all chains. We are definitely mom and pop type of people, and will actually drive out of our way to visit places like the Tattered Cover.

So, can anyone please suggest some other areas where we might feel comfortable. I've heard about Bonnie Brae, more specifically the area around University and Exposition. I've also heard there is another neat area a few blocks to the south on Gaylord street. I think we are going to investigate the housing options in between these two strips, but don't really know much about them...

Thanks in advance for all the help...
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Old 12-07-2006, 02:39 PM
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There are two things that Denver has that you didn't in the city: Cars (ones that aren't yellow) and parking.

If you do get a parking ticket, it's not like 65 bucks or 115 per. So that should save you some money right there.

I'd suggest the Washington Park area maybe. That way you can get a dog to take on walks and maybe take up volleyball if some granola chick starts giving you a bad time. If I was to move back to Denver, I'd have to live south and west of Belleview and I-25. You might check out that light-rail. That might give you the option of living in Littleton or Englewood and being able to get into the "city" in a hurry.

If you are looking for a Liberal environment, then Boulder is your place! Being from the City, you ought to be able to afford it. Seriously. If you can afford the City, you ought to be able to buy a place in Boulder County, or Westminster, or maybe Broomfield.

You're gonna have to be close to the airport, though. You are going to have to fly back to JFK and zip over to Brooklyn to get a slice of pizza.

One thing about the Front Range that you won't like much is that you can't swing a dead cat without hitting the side of a WalMart. If you like good shopping and want to be away from the chain stores, you might have to live near Cherry Creek.

I haven't been to Denver much lately. How's that Interlocken area between Westminster and Broomfield? You might also consider Arvada or Wheatridge.

Good Luck!
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Old 12-07-2006, 02:41 PM
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I think you covered a lot of the places that first came to mind when I read your post. It seems that you are leaning towards Golden over some of the other options. Golden is a great place, but I would also consider the commute. If you are commuting to Boulder, the most direct road between Golden and Boulder is Highway 93, which is never more than a 4-lane, curving road that would not be fun to drive in inclement weather. I don't know what commute time you want, but that would be something to consider. Other places you mentioned are a ways from Boulder, but most have easy access to highways so commute time wouldn't be substantially longer. Boulder I think definitely has what you are looking for, but it also would probably be much more expensive. I'm not familiar with Boulder real estate prices, so hopefully somebody else will be able to give you more info on that.
Bonnie Brae and old Gaylord Streets are two locations to consider, they would have what you are looking for in terms of smaller shops, walkability, etc. You could also look at the Washington Park area, which is a little west of Bonnie Brae and Gaylord. In all three of those areas, you are also close to Cherry Creek, which has the arts, small shops, etc that you are looking for.
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Old 12-07-2006, 05:20 PM
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I say live in Boulder. Yes, it's a bit pretentious at times, and it's expensive by Colorado standards, but it's manageable especially if you don't harbor dreams of white picket fences and big new houses. The rents aren't THAT much more than the rest of the area, and if you're looking to own, condos are about on par with Denver proper (though quite a bit more than the suburbs). Forget about owning a single family home up there though.

I consider myself kinda moderate politically (though by Boulder standards conservative), and I got along fine there in Boulder. The whole Republic of Boulder thing is a little overblown.

But I would never recommend commuting from anywhere in Denver or even the 'burbs up to Boulder on a daily basis. If you're doing that, I say try to tighten your belt and live in Boulder. If you just can't afford it; you might be able to try someplace like Gunbarrel or Louisville, though those areas are nothing but bedroom communities.
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Old 12-07-2006, 05:20 PM
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Boulder is pricey.
Golden, Wash Park (you might find cheaper rent in West Wash Park) or Bonnie Brae. Also Alamo Placita (Off Speer, south of 6th Avenue).
There are sometimes rentals that open up in Country Club North, which is walking distance from Cherry Creek. If you do a bit of patrolling between 6th and 3rd and York and Logan you might find a sweet little spot.
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Old 12-07-2006, 09:29 PM
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Thanks for everyone's help. We visited the Bonnie Brae and South Gaylord areas today, and to be honest, weren't too thrilled. We did, however, find a great suprise in South Pearl street area west of I-25. Does anyone have any information about this area?

One other thought. I had someone today tell me that "you will see a black face" in the more ecclectic South Pearl area, and not in the South Gaylord/Wash Park area. Is this type of phrasing prevelant? Also, would he be correct in saying that South Pearl is a more diverse / ecclectic type of neighborhood. If so, it's stock just went up a bit more...

Any other thoughts would be greatly appreciated...
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Old 12-07-2006, 09:45 PM
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btw, McGowdog, I was laughing out loud at the dead cat hitting a Walmart line. Unfortunately, I've also discovered that you aren't kidding when you say it. East Denver seems like chain restaurant hell. Maybe that's why we like South Pearl so much. Not one Starbucks. Not one Chipotle. They did have a great independent coffee shop there, and it looks like there's an area there under construction on the east side of South Pearl. anyone know what's going in there?
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Old 12-07-2006, 09:57 PM
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>>>One thing about the Front Range that you won't like much is that you can't swing a dead cat without hitting the side of a WalMart.<<<

This, and the yellow car statement, made me LAUGHOUTLOUD!
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Old 12-07-2006, 10:09 PM
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The Boulder Express bus, leaving from Market Street Station, is probably the least stressful way to get between Denver and Boulder. It also stops at Union Station. If you live somewhere within easy striking distance, like parts of the Highlands, you might find that a good option. From parts of Highlands you could just walk. Otherwise, the #28, #32, and the #44 all go between Highlands and the bus terminal.

Oh, by the way, check out craigslist for Highlands rentals. There are a fair number of them on there.
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Old 12-08-2006, 03:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaddieClaire View Post
....the yellow car statement, made me LAUGHOUTLOUD!
Wife and I just spent 4 days in Manhattan, wow, what a GREAT city. Stood in the rain at Broadway and 52nd to see the Macy's parade, took in 3 shows, all of which you can walk to, walked our feet off, visited one of the greatest buildings ever put up by mere mortals (Grand Central Terminal, where we ate at the legendary Oyster Bar). So I play the Mega Millions and HOPE for millions it will take to have a nice brownstone near Central Park....That sea of yellow cabs in Manhattan is a wonder to behold, we used them often, and found that the fares are very reasonable indeed. BTW, there's a deli on every corner in Midtown and Downtown, the people are very friendly, the food is great, and there's a million things to do. Now THAT's what I call civilization. But unless I hit the lottery, I'm staying here in Colorado....

s/Mike
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