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Old 02-09-2012, 09:56 AM
 
58 posts, read 5,620 times
Reputation: 17
Default Yorkie Won't Stop Pissing Everywhere!!

I've had my yorkie for almost 4 years and he's never been fixed. We had him trained for about a year but now every time we let him out of his room, he pees all over the furniture and doors and basically anything standing. Our carpet was yellow all over before we had it cleaned out, which is. Expensive so I don't want to keep doing that every month. Anyway, now if we keep him in his room, he just pees on the door or the gate in the doorway. I'm frustrated because I love my dog so much but I can't stand to let him out because I have to basically focus on nothing but keeping him next to me, which is hard because he doesn't want to sit and sleep he wants to run everywhere and pee!!!!!!!!

Help! He even knows where his pee pee pad is and will deliberately pee next to it but not on it every time !!
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Old 02-09-2012, 10:13 AM
 
3,939 posts, read 3,864,497 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ohsnapses! View Post
he's never been fixed.
Well there's your problem.
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Old 02-09-2012, 11:07 AM
 
Location: St. Louis, Missouri
7,548 posts, read 8,078,445 times
Reputation: 6319
Quote:
Originally Posted by kayfouroh View Post
Well there's your problem.

one of them, at least......
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Old 02-09-2012, 11:09 AM
 
Location: St. Louis, Missouri
7,548 posts, read 8,078,445 times
Reputation: 6319
BEST housetraining advice E.V.E.R.


Reposted from an old thread. Someday we'll get a sticky for it.

Here's is the "bible" from an old-time poster here, ViralMD.

Below is my housetraining post. IT WORKS. But you must follow it TO THE LETTER, as must EVERYONE in the house. It's good for puppies AND grown dogs. And realize that some dogs NEVER learn to signal. Neither of my dogs does.

Housetraining your dog (puppy or adult!)

The first thing you need to do is to remember that you’re trying to reinforce a new behavior. That means that the rewards for this behavior must be WONDERFUL. NOT crap from the store. Wonderful treats are poached chicken breast/turkey breast, cheese and steak. And you don’t have to use big pieces. Tiny pieces (about 3mm cubes) are just fine! I poach a whole turkey breast every few weeks, cut it into hunks when it’s cool enough to handle, wrap them well and store them in the freezer. When I need some, I’ll thaw a hunk overnight and cut off pieces and dice finely, storing them in a plastic bag in the fridge. One hunk will last about five days. Cheese is also popular, so variety is fine.

I carry these plastic bags in my jacket pockets in the winter and in a fanny pack in warmer weather. You HAVE to have these with you, or this method won’t work, because you need to reward as soon as the dog finishes pooping or peeing. It’s not going to work if the rewards are in the house.

Remember that you’re trying to change a very ingrained behavior. Some dogs like to feel certain things under their feet when they eliminate, like fabric, or newspaper. This is called a ‘substrate preference.’ What you’re trying to do is change this substrate preference, and to do that you have to make the treats SO wonderful that the dog will change this very well-entrenched behavior. Thus the chicken, cheese, steak.

I love clicker training, but this can be done without clickers. You just need a way to ‘mark’ the behavior you want to reinforce. Use the word ‘YESSSSS!!!!’ very enthusiastically – that works for some.

You’re going to need to GO OUTSIDE WITH your dog and the dog needs to be on a leash. Yes, even in winter. If you don’t reward IMMEDIATELY after the event (when dog immediately finishes pooping or peeing) and wait inside, the dog is going to be reinforced for coming inside, not for doing its business. So, leash up your dog. STAND IN ONE PLACE. Be boring. Bring a book or magazine for yourself.

Eventually, the dog will do what you’re waiting for. The NANOSECOND that the dog is finished, HAVE A PARTY – lots of loud, high-pitched praise, treats and running around. You want to make this memorable for your dog! You’ll find that once the first event is achieved, the others will come more quickly. Keep on treating (you don’t have to throw a party except for milestones – a milestone = if he only pooped outside but now peed, too, or something equivalent to that) until he’s good and used to peeing/pooping outside. Before you know it, you have a trained dog.

Regarding accidents in the house: NO SCOLDING. Just clean them up. If you scold you’ll get the dog to think it’s bad to pee or poop and he’ll do it in places you won’t see. Until you step in it. Invest in a big bottle of Nature’s Miracle or Simple Solution and use it liberally on accidents.

To quote Patricia McConnell, author of “The Other End of the Leash” and co-author of “Way to Go” (a booklet on housetraining), “Once you face the fact that you just have take your dog out every time you turn around, give them the treat immeditely after they potty, and prevent accidents in the house… well, it usually goes so smoothly.”

With young puppies, remember they have little control of the muscle that holds the bladder closed. This is something they grow into. Just as it’s not expected that a human baby is toilet trained at six months, don’t expect much from a puppy. Patience, patience, patience!!!! The nervous system in a puppy has to mature, and it won’t have much control over the sphincter (closing muscle) at the neck of the bladder until six or seven months. The same goes for the anal sphincter. Until control is achieved, both of these muscles operate on reflex: there are stretch receptors in the bladder wall. When the bladder is full, it sends impulses to the spinal cord and these, in turn, send signals to the sphincter to open and the dog pees.

In the stomach wall, there are also stretch receptors. So when the dog eats and the stomach is stretched, the impulses again go to the spinal cord, but this time the reflex, outgoing, nerve signals are sent to the anal sphincter, so the dog defecates. This operates in people, too – which is why some people rush to the ‘reading room’ after a meal – especially breakfast.
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Old 02-09-2012, 11:14 AM
 
Location: Montreal -> CT -> MA -> Montreal
12,133 posts, read 11,056,574 times
Reputation: 15533
Quote:
Originally Posted by latetotheparty View Post
one of them, at least......
I'll bite (no pun intended)...

Is "every time we let him out of his room" another problem?
And perhaps the poor pup senses his person's anger, too?

Sigh...
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Old 02-09-2012, 11:18 AM
 
Location: St. Louis, Missouri
7,548 posts, read 8,078,445 times
Reputation: 6319
Quote:
Originally Posted by DandJ View Post
I'll bite (no pun intended)...

Is "every time we let him out of his room" another problem?
And perhaps the poor pup senses his person's anger, too?

Sigh...
yep and yep .....

and according to another thread in here, the op now wants to add a cavalier king charles spaniel to the mix......
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Old 02-09-2012, 11:21 AM
 
Location: On the sunny side of a mountain
2,074 posts, read 2,603,664 times
Reputation: 3072
I just want to get the time line straight. You've had him for 4 years, he's only been potty trained for the past year and his is now peeing everywhere is a new behavior? If it is a new behavior, have you taken him to the vet to make sure he is physically in good health?
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Old 02-09-2012, 11:26 AM
 
2,228 posts, read 661,956 times
Reputation: 867
You can't keep a dog locked in "his room"! Do you think they enjoy having a room to themselves? Modern Yorkies are BRED FOR COMPANIONSHIP, they need to be with their people. HE NEEDS TO BE NEUTERED. We don't need more people making more puppies that are ill bred and adding to the puppy population. If you aren't breeding, then why in the world would you not have that dog neutered? This is 100% a person problem, not a dog problem. Pay attention to those that gave you good advice for training and spend some time with that poor dog, give him physical activity, walks are required for a well trained dog of any breed, and until you know how to handle this dog, certainly adding another dog to the mix wouldn't be wise.
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Old 02-09-2012, 11:59 AM
 
Location: West Virginia
8,015 posts, read 15,584,648 times
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Hes Marking! And at 4 yrs old nutering not going to help. You need to Catch him in the Act! Then Take him where you want him to pee. You will also need to Clean really really good with spec products to Remove ALL smells [to Him not You!] When you take him out his room No Freedom untill You take him out & Watch to make sure his Empty! & He needs out Often! And adding another dog while this dog is NOT fully House train will only Tripple your problems with the dog you have & Make training the new dog impossible!
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Old 02-09-2012, 12:04 PM
 
Location: Rural Western TN
5,983 posts, read 7,707,970 times
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1: this isnt a housebreaking issue this is a intact maemarkin territory issue.
GET HIM NEUTERED...
by now however given his age this could be "habitual" and even once the hormones are gone it will still require trainign to reslve the situation

neutering will help (and should be done for HEALTH reasons) but it likely wont cure the problem

2: you say you "let him out of the room" so is he eing kept locked up in 1 anrea, an intact aleon hormone overdrive thats suddenly starte peeing on anything verticle is pent up, frustrated and not getting enough attention.

get him nutered, the youll have to start on re-potty training.
and no ne dogs untill the issue is resovled adding a new dog to the mix will only exhasberate this situation.
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