Which breed of small dog is suited for living in a high rise building? (boxer, terrier)

[MerriMAC]

I live in a high rise building that allows small quiet dogs under 20 pounds. I'm interested, but I have never owned a dog.

I am single and live alone. And I work, so the dog would be home alone. I could come home for lunch, but the dog would still be alone for about four hour blocks each day. There is no yard. The dog would be inside my place. I have hard floors.

I could take the dog for a walk outside every day for 30-45 minutes. Maybe that won't make up for all the time it would be alone. And now that I think about it...that's likely lots of messes to clean up when I get home from work. So. it's not looking too good for me and dog ownership, but I'll ask anyway:

Are there any breeds of dogs that would adapt into this situation?

I foresee the snarky and angry replies coming my way. So before that: know that I could save a dog from being put down because no one else adopted it, and I could give it a home. If that's worth anything.

[Katie1]

My corgi adjusted & my pap BUT I litter box trained them. So any small dog would be ok. OR you might consider a cat!

[ArtyGuy]

Based upon your work schedule, I would carefully choose when you get a dog. In addition to different breeds, dogs also have different personalities. I've had three different Boston Terriers and they all have been completely different. My first one, Misfire, had an iron bladder and was incredibly easy to train. She could be left alone all day and not have an accident or get into mischief. Our current one, Allie, has the bladder the size of a humming bird and is not easy to train- though we did train her to use pee pads for those times we know we will be gone for more than 4 hours.

Anyway, my point is don't get a dog over the weekend and go right back into your schedule on Monday. Any dog, and certainly a shelter dog, needs time to adjust and needs their owner(s) to help them adjust. We rescued a Pit Bull a year ago this past Sunday. It took 3 months before she was comfortable. It took her a few weeks before she started to figure out the routine here and that was with our Boston showing her the ropes. Now don't think that you have to take 3 months off but I would certainly plan to take some time off. If not, I think you and the dog will both be unhappy and I suspect you might be inclined to bring the dog back since you're new to all of this.

[MerriMAC]

Thank you for your kind replies. Other posts for advice I make in other sections are sometimes ridiculed.

I checked around my building. Not very many residents have dogs as pets. They are young professionals with no time to care for a pet that needs attention. A few retired couples have little dogs. But they are home most of the time with the dog, or hire "dog daycare" when out. That gets spendy; something I can't do each day.

Since I don't know much about dogs, I will spend a few weeks at the animal shelter to find the right breed.

[runswithscissors]

There is absolutely no problem living in a high rise with a dog if you are the correct type of owner.

I created and managed my dog walking/pet sitting business in a 30 story high rise and servicing the condo next door with 38 floors. I had enough business I never even used my car to go elsewhere.

There is ALOT to consider, though.

The high rise isn't the issue the owner is. (except for other bad owners in close proximity to you).

And your dog will need MULTIPLE walks potentially. I did have plenty who only went out twice but the more commonplace is FOUR times a day. It just depends. And smaller dogs have smaller bladders so train later.

If you are a first time dog owner I don't recommend it based on your post - without help from an experienced owner maybe a foster of a dog who can guide you. NOT a puppy. There are MANY nice dogs past the puppy stage and especially older dogs who are homeless (even though there ARE puppies in rescue).

You could locate a rescue where the dogs are in foster care and the foster knows their personalities and limitations or strengths. Since they are living with them 24/7

The thing would be to find a low energy small dog who would be easier for you to manage. Not a bubbly high energy dog. My best client impeccably trained was a 120 lb Mastiff. I've seen people with small Maltese who just CANNOT understand how to have the dog not bark so it's barking the entire time it's walking through the lobby and at all passersby so ...that gets old fast LOL. I LOVE a Yorkie and they are really funny BUT some small dogs come with health issues and don't get a tiny thing 3 lbs. I'D say get a MIXED BREED at the weight limit.

My favorite client dog was a Rat Terrier and that would be the breed or MIX of dog I'd be getting if I were looking. NOT the energy of other terriers, really sweet, fantastic companions and grateful for everything. They can entertain themselves, too to a point with their own toys. They might drift over the 20 lbs though, I'm not sure.

Someone here just adopted a Rat Terrier from the pound and she is a DREAM. I'll try and post her story later.

ANY breed is fine, however you must consider you will be in close quarters with other owners who may not be as respectful.

Dogs in the shelter are not going to exactly be the same as when you get them home and settle in and they will assume YOUR energy. If you are a nervous type person, they will get nervous. If you are calm they will feel calm. But you need to show leadership while being calm.

Sometimes they annoy people in the elevator. NO you have to put them behind you and sitting or standing calmly. Other dopes enter the elevator with their dog coming in FIRST and end up face to face with your dog which can be a fight.

So NOT carry them all over. It makes them a target and NOT confident. Have them ON A LEASH WALKING like a normal dog. The only time I pick them up is for a very specific reason like if they're going to get hurt because morons pile into the elevator and almost crush them.

They cannot be "protective" or they'll be suspicious of other humans or dogs near you in the elevator.

Some people are afraid of dogs and will be afraid of you.

You have to prohibit acting crazy and barking in the lobby. It's not hard to stop. You just swallow the embarrassment and STOP WALKING and make the dog face YOU and WAIT. Correct them calmly. "shhht" or just with your leash until they stop being excited and look UP AT YOU. THEN the BRAIN is ready to go.

You have to be able to negotiate the doors entering and exiting the building. Same thing they must stand there CALMLY and WAIT for YOU to go first and invite them through the door. They cannot charge out first. This applies to houses not just high rises but everybody breaks that rule EXCEPT A GOOD DOG WALKER haha.

You can't let them out on the balcony barking. Obviously you cannot let them relieve themselves out there and they should't be unsupervised anyway especially a small dog that may squeeze through the openings if you have any.

NEVER EVER use a retractable leash only a 6 foot leather or cotton weave (NOT NOT NYLON)

Some people train them to use indoor potty things HOWEVER EVERY DOG NEEDS WALKS OUTSIDE NOT LIVING IN A CAGE AND A HOME IS A CAGE.

You will need to walk her am before work to get the energy out. PM after work. Probably again at bedtime. And quite possibly at lunch or get a dog walker. YES each walk should be 30-45 minutes if the dog is in shape to do so- it depends. An older dog may not really WALK,WALK but dogs TRAVEL and WANT to walk whenever possible. I think most dogs would be very GRATEFUL and happy to live with someone who did such a generous CARING walking routine even if you worked. Most of the time owners don't even care and run them out until they eliminate and then it's RIGHT BACK HOME. What a boring life.

The fact that you said you sometimes get ridiculed here and thanked people for being "kind" is a clue to me that you may be a soft energy dog owner so you DEFINITELY will NEED TO work on your leadership qualities so your dog has CONFIDENCE in following you and understanding what you want. BEing KIND in dog language doesn't really compute. If you're "too kind" (not helping them with self discipline and boundaries, rules and limitations) it backfires and they will probably walk all over you and try to be the leader but unfortunately they can't drive or write checks.

Dogs follow calm assertive energy not soft energy - they need to feel balanced. In their natural families -PACKS. Some are leaders some are followers but there is one ultimate leader and that is YOU. Same rules for every dog in the pack no dog gets to boss the others too much.

And you can transfer your issues to a dog for example during thunder and lightening some people "CONSOLE" the dog. NO! You're supposed to make it a NON event and if they are freaking out you calmly let them stay in their crate and work it out. YES some people give medication for things like fireworks and I'm simplifying but I'm just giving you an example.

If not you could end up with a dog with personality issues like being nervous or overly PROTECTIVE and paranoid of other people.

You could hire a dog walker with alot of experience at first to help you and if you want to DM me here I may be able to give you a couple of referrals to colleagues I may know or be able to screen in your city.

I guess it's possible that a rescue would allow you a certain amount of time to see if you're a good match.

HOWEVER don't forget you still have things you want to do AFTER work or weekends and now you have essentially a two year old kid at home waiting for you. They will have NO OTHER LIFE but YOU so be "KIND" and don't put them into a situation where they have nothing but a couple quick potty breaks a day and sleeping waiting for their pack to come home for a life albeit it's better than lots of other dogs have it or euthanasia.

[f5fstop]

What's the problem with a nylon leash?

[runswithscissors]

Originally Posted by f5fstop

What's the problem with a nylon leash?

They slip out of your hand. Then can also burn your hand in a powerful breed. Yeah I might grab one of my client's if the dog is easy but I usually bring my own leashes to jobs or my clients end up switching.

Clients ALWAYS have the wrong leash! Those light weight thin pink nylon on like, a 80 LB BOXER LOL.

A strong leash is a tool to absorb the weight of the dog. IF YOU EVER NEED IT. And of course to give you a grasp even though I ALWAYS use a loose leash never tension on the leash. But if some stranger dog is stray and leaps in front of you on the street you have to have tools and techniques.

ALMOST NO dogs get the privilege of retractable LOL. People LOVE them so they don't have to get their feet wet. I hate those things and the dog can't feel your energy down the arm directing them and they're also always TENSE. PLUS they'll slice your arm off haha.

BTW OP always a LOOSE LEASH NEVER TENSION ON THE LEASH - IT TAKES PRACTICE!!

And you have to STOP YOURSELF from getting nervous when someone approaches you do NOT PREDICT a problem with your energy or you will MANIFEST THAT PROBLEM

I always recommend this one - it comes in 4, 6, 10, 15, 30 foot and the standard length is 6:

It may be too heavy for a tiny tea cup dog.

I buy bright colors so I don't misplace them and easy to remember which color is which.


Amazon.com : 30-Foot Cotton Web Lead, Blue : Pet Leashes : Pet Supplies

You can find on the end caps at the stores or on Amazon - Four Paws or Coastal I think.

They are cotton and have a webbing to grip. Like leather you can grip better against skin.

I tie knots in mine. AND my thin leather. Generally...

One knot up by the handle loop.
One knot down by the dog which will keep him 2 ft from me
One knot in the middle that I can keep him about 4 feet from me.

THIS way if they bolt, I can catch the knot and it also gives me immediate habitual place to pull them close, say in close quarters.

Being a dog walker is all about structure and routine and not breaking your own rules that you KNOW work but when you get sloppy something happens and reminds you why you have those rules to begin with.

[runswithscissors]

This is the leash I like for powerful breeds. Weaver Deer Skin. 3/4 inch wide.

http://www.amazon.com/Weaver-Leather...eer+skin+leash

I think this is like my all purpose thinner leather leash I use for anybody.

http://www.petco.com/product/107398/...in-Copper.aspx

If I have a powerful breed that I don't know well and he's not trustworthy at first I use a prong collar with the owner's consent. That's another thing owners buy wrong. TOO LIGHTWEIGHT the dog doesn't even feel it or it feels annoying like needles. Or cheap and the prongs are pointed or too hard to manipulate. I buy heavy weight prongs to match the weight of the dog. It is NOT the right tool for everyone. And by powerful, that can also be a Jack Russell!

I had a 2-3 LB tea cup baby Pomeranian client. I used a tiny lightweight cat leash training HIM. hahaha.

[runswithscissors]

Optionally:

[runswithscissors]

This is what low energy looks like :