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Old 08-19-2009, 09:22 AM
Location: Manitoba
20 posts, read 77,783 times
Reputation: 13


hey everyone!

i just bought a 7 weeks puppy just wonder if any of you can gave me any help with like food intake, potty training, chewing, biting ect...

i have an other dog but he is 5 years old i got him too when he was a puppy but i never had that much problem with him like this one...lol... that ok do i love dogs just wonder if anyone can gave me some tips...

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Old 08-19-2009, 09:37 AM
Location: Lemon Grove, CA USA
1,055 posts, read 3,589,586 times
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7 weeks? When did you get him? Seems early to be away from the litter/mom. That is where they do a lot of their early learning about socialization and etiquette.

Biting/mouthing you can yelp then pull away and ignore the puppy for a while. He should learn to control his mouth pretty quick. Well that is what they tell me anyway but my new dog still gets over excited sometimes and mouths, lol. It is much better since I started conditioning him though.

Chewing is a boredom thing usually. Toys, training, playing/walking, etc will help reduce that.

The other puppy stuff like potty training and feeding is out of my area of knowledge. Never had to raise a puppy. I don't think I would survive it, lol.
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Old 08-19-2009, 11:41 AM
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All puppies chew! That's how they play. You can't stop it but you can redirect it. And at 6 months, when he gets his adult teeth, it'll only increase. Get him some Kong toys and stuff 'em with some plain non-fat yogurt and freeze them. That'll keep him occupied.

As I said, all puppies bite – they explore with their mouths. Often, when a puppy goes to his home before 10 weeks or so they don’t get to learn ‘bite inhibition’ from their mother and siblings. Thus, you’re going to have to teach him.

Have him in a puppy safe place, where you can leave him, without him getting into trouble and where he can’t see you when you leave (a gated kitchen is ideal). Start playing, and when he nips too hard, YELP! like a puppy and LEAVE. Just for a minute. Repeat while he’s playing with you. He’ll learn quickly that when he bites too hard the game is OVER and he loses you! This really works.

For housetraining - he's still very young and should ONLY be going in your own property because of the danger of Parvo virus. In addition, because he's so young, he won't have much control over his bladder yet: like a human infant, puppies' bladders operate on the mechanism of getting stretched and empyting automatically, without the puppy even realizing it. But here's my housetraining post. You need to follow this TO THE LETTER, as must everyone in the house. Do that and you'll have a trained dog - not immediately, especially since he's neurologially immature and has an 'automatic bladder,' but eventually:

Housetraining your dog (puppy or adult!)

The first thing you need to do is to remember that you’re trying to reinforce a new behavior. That means that the rewards for this behavior must be WONDERFUL. NOT crap from the store. Wonderful treats are poached chicken breast/turkey breast, cheese and steak. And you don’t have to use big pieces. Tiny pieces (about 3mm cubes) are just fine! I poach a whole turkey breast every few weeks, cut it into hunks when it’s cool enough to handle, wrap them well and store them in the freezer. When I need some, I’ll thaw a hunk overnight and cut off pieces and dice finely, storing them in a plastic bag in the fridge. One hunk will last about five days. Cheese is also popular, so variety is fine.

I carry these plastic bags in my jacket pockets in the winter and in a fanny pack in warmer weather. You HAVE to have these with you, or this method won’t work, because you need to reward as soon as the dog finishes pooping or peeing. It’s not going to work if the rewards are in the house.

Remember that you’re trying to change a very ingrained behavior. Some dogs like to feel certain things under their feet when they eliminate, like fabric, or newspaper. This is called a ‘substrate preference.’ What you’re trying to do is change this substrate preference, and to do that you have to make the treats SO wonderful that the dog will change this very well-entrenched behavior. Thus the chicken, cheese, steak.

I love clicker training, but this can be done without clickers. You just need a way to ‘mark’ the behavior you want to reinforce. Use the word ‘YESSSSS!!!!’ very enthusiastically – that works for some.

You’re going to need to GO OUTSIDE WITH your dog and the dog needs to be on a leash. Yes, even in winter. If you don’t reward IMMEDIATELY after the event (when dog immediately finishes pooping or peeing) and wait inside, the dog is going to be reinforced for coming inside, not for doing its business. So, leash up your dog. STAND IN ONE PLACE. Be boring. Bring a book or magazine for yourself.

Eventually, the dog will do what you’re waiting for. The NANOSECOND that the dog is finished, HAVE A PARTY – lots of loud, high-pitched praise, treats and running around. You want to make this memorable for your dog! You’ll find that once the first event is achieved, the others will come more quickly. Keep on treating (you don’t have to throw a party except for milestones – a milestone = if he only pooped outside but now peed, too, or something equivalent to that) until he’s good and used to peeing/pooping outside. Before you know it, you have a trained dog.

Regarding accidents in the house: NO SCOLDING. Just clean them up. If you scold you’ll get the dog to think it’s bad to pee or poop and he’ll do it in places you won’t see. Until you step in it. Invest in a big bottle of Nature’s Miracle or Simple Solution and use it liberally on accidents.

With young puppies, remember they have little control of the muscle that holds the bladder closed. This is something they grow into. Just as it’s not expected that a human baby is toilet trained at six months, don’t expect much from a puppy. Patience, patience, patience!!!! The nervous system in a puppy has to mature, and it won’t have much control over the sphincter (closing muscle) at the neck of the bladder until six or seven months. The same goes for the anal sphincter. Until control is achieved, both of these muscles operate on reflex: there are stretch receptors in the bladder wall. When the bladder is full, it sends impulses to the spinal cord and these, in turn, send signals to the sphincter to open and the dog pees.

In the stomach wall, there are also stretch receptors. So when the dog eats and the stomach is stretched, the impulses again go to the spinal cord, but this time the reflex, outgoing, nerve signals are sent to the anal sphincter, so the dog defecates. This operates in people, too – which is why some people rush to the ‘reading room’ after a meal – especially breakfast.
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Old 08-19-2009, 02:18 PM
Location: South Dakota
400 posts, read 1,106,258 times
Reputation: 514
I always love MD's posts, always lots of great advice and always very easy to understand and follow (if you really mean buisiness).

I would just like to add - your 5 year old dog will help training the little one, even if it's completely unintentional - the pup will learn some things just by watching the older dog.
We had a 12 year old husky/lab when we got our golden (12 weeks). The pup learned going outside, feet need wiping when it rains, and other small things just from watching the older guy do it and get treats and praise.
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