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Old 10-27-2016, 04:40 PM
 
Location: Southwest Washington State
19,039 posts, read 12,606,588 times
Reputation: 24670

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_Geek View Post
I decided I'm going to start buying one new item every week or two and slowly build up my wardrobe over time. I'm going to start with a couple of nice pairs of shoes (at least 1 black and 1 brown pair). I'll buy quality and not spend $50 like I did in the past. Then I'll work on nice flat front pants and button up shirts. I also plan on having clothes tailored for the first time in my life.

Since I plan on getting clothes tailored do I just buy the size closest to what I think I am or do I buy one size bigger since I don't want to get too small and not be able to tailor it?
For dress shirts, you fit your neck size, because you have to button the top button to accommodate a tie. For casual shirts, I think I would fit the shoulders. If the shoulder doesn't fit, the tailor has a harder time. Don't buy a shirt with sleeves that are too short. You can lengthen, but you cannot shorten.

Actually, you might call the tailor and talk to him or her before buying the first shirt. Or, you could buy one, take it to the tailor, and find out if he/she can fit it, and if it is a lot of trouble, and there is a better size for you, you can return it. You can see why it isn't cost effective to take a cheap shirt to a tailor.

I don't know if I mentioned this before, but Lands End shirts tend to fit a bit narrower than some other shirts. I don't know enough about other brands, but I imagine there are other brands that fit the same. You are embarking on a learning experience.
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Old 10-28-2016, 12:10 AM
 
Location: Vallejo
13,487 posts, read 15,125,332 times
Reputation: 11957
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_Geek View Post
I decided I'm going to start buying one new item every week or two and slowly build up my wardrobe over time. I'm going to start with a couple of nice pairs of shoes (at least 1 black and 1 brown pair). I'll buy quality and not spend $50 like I did in the past. Then I'll work on nice flat front pants and button up shirts. I also plan on having clothes tailored for the first time in my life.

Since I plan on getting clothes tailored do I just buy the size closest to what I think I am or do I buy one size bigger since I don't want to get too small and not be able to tailor it?
If you're going to splurge on anything, shoes. I graduated in '08 and got a pair of Allen Edmonds that's my normal shoe, so probably wear that thing three days a week from 2009 to present. I went through three other dress shoes that were my alternates. They maybe last a year and start looking bad. You kick something with your toe and scratch through the 2 millimeters of split leather and that's it. I mean, I really like the Ecco semi-dressy blutcher for being comfortable to walk in for miles but if you need something that will look great for years they are not it. For a $180 shoe (on sale for $70), they've got pathetic uppers. For $70 I can't complain.

Shirts, fit the shoulder. Seam should line up with the top of your shoulder. It's relatively easy to dart the shirt and/or take in the sides so it's less of a parachute. Also pay attention to armhole size and flying squirrel arms. If you dart/take in a shirt with floppy arms... yeah, not a good look. They can cut the sleeves off and slim them down so it's not a HUGE issue but how much do you really want to spend altering a shirt? You're better off going MTM at that point and spending the typically $100ish

Last edited by Malloric; 10-28-2016 at 12:22 AM..
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Old 10-28-2016, 09:55 AM
 
Location: Los Angeles County
11,100 posts, read 9,079,225 times
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Thanks everyone. I still have a lot to learn. I'll do some more research on how shirts are supposed to fit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by silibran View Post
Don't buy a shirt with sleeves that are too short. You can lengthen, but you cannot shorten.
Can you clarify what you mean here? Did you mean to say you can't lengthen but you can shorten?
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Old 10-29-2016, 10:49 PM
 
Location: Southwest Washington State
19,039 posts, read 12,606,588 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_Geek View Post
Thanks everyone. I still have a lot to learn. I'll do some more research on how shirts are supposed to fit.



Can you clarify what you mean here? Did you mean to say you can't lengthen but you can shorten?
Yes. It is impossible to lengthen shirtsleeves after the shirt is made.
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Old 11-01-2016, 06:36 PM
 
Location: Vallejo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silibran View Post
Yes. It is impossible to lengthen shirtsleeves after the shirt is made.
Cut cuffs off. Attach longer cuffs. You'll end up with "banker" shirt (aka contrast cuff/collar) shirt though.
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Old 11-01-2016, 07:20 PM
 
Location: all over the place (figuratively)
2,657 posts, read 2,132,903 times
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That's only a realistic option for a dress shirt, and with the collar not matching the cuffs the end result might look weird. Just return. If clearance cannot be returned, it needs to fit well in the store.
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Old 11-01-2016, 10:50 PM
 
Location: Southwest Washington State
19,039 posts, read 12,606,588 times
Reputation: 24670
Quote:
Originally Posted by Malloric View Post
Cut cuffs off. Attach longer cuffs. You'll end up with "banker" shirt (aka contrast cuff/collar) shirt though.
This is an adjustment a tailor would be best making. I think they might be able to do it at the shoulder.

Also, for thin builds, darts can be made in the back to slim a shirt down.
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Old 11-02-2016, 09:41 AM
 
Location: Los Angeles County
11,100 posts, read 9,079,225 times
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If I go into a Macys or something similar will they be able to measure me so I know what size dress shirts to buy? Or is there a store that is better for this? I have been buying the same size for many, many years. While I am still the same size as then I wonder if I was ever measured correctly?
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Old 11-02-2016, 04:54 PM
 
Location: Vallejo
13,487 posts, read 15,125,332 times
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There's really not much to "measure" for dress shirts.

Neck should fit comfortably but not loosely. You should be able to get a finger or two between the collar and your neck with the top button done, not an entire hand. If you'll never wear the top button buttoned, you can go snugger if that's your preference.
Sleeve length should not restrict your movement or have excessive pooling of fabric along the sleeve

You can have Macy's measure you. They'll simply measure your neck size and then sleeve (center of neck along the shoulder and then down your arm). It really isn't necessary though. It's always a good idea to try on dress shirts anyway. If you want to go into made-to-measure, (modern tailor, proper cloth) they'll have a list of measurements to take.

Last edited by Malloric; 11-02-2016 at 05:06 PM..
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Old 11-02-2016, 08:50 PM
 
Location: all over the place (figuratively)
2,657 posts, read 2,132,903 times
Reputation: 1689
That said, in many stores the dress shirts are sealed and cannot be tried on there. They, however, usually can be returned.

I think the variance in fit (regular, slim, extra slim, and so on) is the bigger minefield than basic size. My head was spinning the last time I tried on dress shirts, just from the variety in one brand. If a dress shirt is going beneath a buttoned jacket, then a slim guy probably can get away with almost anything. Excess fabric isn't hard to hide.
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