Cape Coral - Boston Pub and Grille (Fort Myers, Naples: transplants, job)

[Eric Taubert]

Lately, it seems as if every time I turn around there's a new Boston-themed restaurant opening up in southwest Florida.

Our melting pot of ethnic diversity apparently harbors a sizable contingent of starving transplants from places far North of here...people who talk funny, turn up their nose at Florida seafood, and ravenously long for that hard-to-find, authentic, New England-style cuisine. Cold water fish. Thick chowders. Steamed soft-shell clams. Corn on the cob. Maine lobster. Portuguese sausage.

When I heard a new Boston-themed restaurant was opening up in Big John's plaza, utilizing the space which formerly housed the Fitness Grille, I looked forward to trying it out.
In February, an amateurish looking sign went up on the building...Boston Pub and Grille. I stopped in to grab a copy of the menu. It was crowded with standard American fare of the burger and chicken variety. My hopes were squandered. The only New England thing about this restaurant was the word Boston on the sign. There may have been a token haddock dish and some clam chowder...but the big dogs of northern gastronomy were noticeably absent. Where were the lobster rolls, the steamers, the fried scallops, the clam fritters, the scrod?

I put the Boston Pub and Grille on the back burner of my priority list, and moved on to other restaurants.

But, the story did not end there. A couple months went by, and I began to see newspaper ads for the Boston Pub and Grille. "Watch All The Red Sox Games Here! MLB Package" These advertisements mentioned entrees not previously available on the regular menu. Haddock Fish and Chips. Maine Lobster Rolls. Ipswich Fried Clams. This little restaurant was finally coming around, finding and effectively targeting homesick northerners with the kinds of comfort food they can't resist. A small buzz passed along the Cape Coral word-of-mouth infrastructure: "You've got to go try that Boston Pub and Grille".

The time had arrived for me to make my visit.




It was a late lunch, and I easily found a parking spot directly in front of the restaurant. Now, in addition to the one amateur looking sign above the main door, there are two others placed on the plaza sidewalk directly outside the restaurant. The owners, Stan and Mary Nedoff, are both originally from Boston - and they've put enough ugly signs out in front of this place to be certain you won't miss it. Don't get me wrong...when you're opening a new restaurant, fighting for market share is tough. The past couple years have seen SW Florida saturated with new restaurants...and not all of them are doing well. As far as I'm concerned, if it's working for you, then keep at it...ugly signs, or not.

The restaurant is a lot more cozy on the inside than it looks from out front. An attractive bar, from which to watch the Red Sox games, is directly to the left as you enter the restaurant. From there, it is a straight and narrow shot to the back of the building, past a couple high top tables and four or five comfy booths. The interior is quaint, with a definite coastal New England theme. There are some Cape Cod signs and maps. Nautical charts of the Massachusetts shoreline. Framed magazine clippings documenting the ups and downs of the Kennedy family. Plenty of Red Sox imagery, too. At the far end, beyond the last booth, is a door exiting to their thirty-seat outdoor dining patio. The Nedoff's have done a nice job with the space they have.




As soon as we walked in, we were quickly and enthusiastically greeted by the bartender and a member of the waitstaff.

"Grab a seat wherever you'd like, I'll be right over with some menus."

Most of the tables were still occupied by people finishing lunch. We took the last booth on the far right.

The Boston Pub and Grille must still be in transition period, because the menus the young man with the Red Sox cap brought over were copies of the same one that gave me the bad first impression. I had to ask after their newer Boston-themed fare.

"I thought I saw in the newspaper that you had some other menu items?"

"Oh yeah, we're out of a couple of them, so I didn't even think to bring the other menu over."

Now, I never got to see what exactly what was on this other menu...but the few items the friendly waiter rattled off and said they still offered were exactly the kind of food I came here looking for. The Lobster Roll. The Fried Clam Roll. Fried Ipswich Belly Clams. Haddock Fish and Chips. I wonder what the items were that they ran out of?

The waiter took a drink order, and returned practically immediately with our beverages.
"I don't usually work lunch...but they got so busy today that they called me in to help out," he told us. It seems that buzz is starting to spread.
My dining partner ordered a glass of Pinot Noir. I went with a Guinness.

For dinner, my guest ordered the Haddock Fish and Chips. I chose their New England Clam Chowder for a starter and the Ipswich Fried Clams as my main course.

The New England Clam Chowder arrived quickly, with a side of oyster crackers. It was an excellent example of a traditional Cape Cod clam chowder...creamy, but not too thick, just the way I like it. There are some who like their chowder thick enough to stand up their spoon in the middle of it, and on occasion I've tasted a good thick chowder. But I've never had a great thick chowder. The extra thick texture usually comes at the expense of the most important chowder facet: flavor. The New England Clam Chowder at Boston Pub and Grille had an excellent, briny, clam flavor. I'll take medium texture any day, as long as the flavor is there...but it's a delicate balancing act, the flavor cannot be overdone. True clam chowder is about simplicity. Cream, clams, pork fat, celery, onion, potatoes, maybe a hint of thyme and black pepper. That's it. The Boston Pub doesn't use my exact recipe, but it's pretty close and a nice variation. Keep it simple. Readers: How do you like your clam chowder?



Ample time was allowed between courses, as we mentioned we were not in any rush.

The entrees looked excellent as they were placed down before us. The decadent, fried, seafood scented the air around us with the perfume of Main Street in Hyannis on a summer night. I patted myself on the back for deciding to choose this restaurant to review today. I should have come earlier.

My guest's Fried Haddock and Chips were piping hot. The batter was lightly seasoned, crispy...perfectly done. The haddock was moist. The crunchy, fried, exterior provided the perfect counterpoint to the clean, white, flavor of the delicate, flaky, fish. Yummy.




The Ipswich Fried Clams were tempting to look at. What a rare treat in Southwest Florida...not many places serve whole belly clams down south. I am pleased to report that these were as sweet and tender as any fried clams I've ever had from the coast of Maine to the tip of Provincetown. Fried, but not greasy. Once again, excellent batter...that's how you make a name for yourself in fried seafood. It's all about the batter. I feel as though I should sing more praises about the Ipswich clams, but I'm going to take a lesson from the chowder and keep it simple: Job well done, Boston Pub.




Both dishes were served with extra crispy, crinkle-cut, french fries and cole slaw. The fries are just plain, lightly-seasoned, french fries...but that's all these dishes call for. That's how they're served up North. They provide a simple base for the rest of the meal, without getting in the way of the subtle haddock and clam flavors.

The cole slaw was sincere, as well. I've seen many a cole slaw turned into a travesty by well meaning, artistic, chefs in South Florida. Boston Pub and Grille scores extra points on the cole slaw by keeping it traditional. Cabbage, carrots, vinegar, and mayonnaise. The end result is a cool and refreshing palate cleanser offering balance against the heat of the fried food. If it ain't broke don't fix it.

Allow me to proclaim, based on my one meal at Boston Pub and Grille, I heartily Recommend this restaurant.

I am hoping they will do the right thing, and get those new, popular items onto their regular menu as soon as possible. I would go so far as to say that success for this restaurant looks like it's in the direction of catering to Northern palates. Bring in some clam fritters... no one down here has them, and we're growing tired of conch. Add steamed soft shell clams. Hell, do a New England style Lobster Bake. And, get Harpoon IPA onto your beer list. Expat New Englanders need a culinary oasis in Cape Coral. If you build it they will come. They're already here and looking ...all they need is a reason to come. And when they do, I might be sorry I shared my good experience...I've never been one for big crowds.

Readers: Do any of you have any hot tips on where to get good New England style food in Cape Coral or Fort Myers?

Originally Posted at The Cape Coral Barometer!

[jeffabb]

I was there a few weeks ago. I loved the chowder (or chawda as it is pronounced) and the Guiness Crustini. I recommended the place (also, the Sam Adams is served in their Perfect Pint Glasses).

[whippersnapper]

You're making me hungry!

[mawipafl]

Great review technique Cape Coral Barometer! Look forward to your next!

[Tarastomsgirl]

yummmm, thats one thing I will miss living in NE this past year... However we used to frequent Foxboro in Naples. All NE themed and had some really good food! This places looks like its worth trying out though.. Thanks for the post

[mhoward48]

I have not moved to Florida yet! But, one of the best barbecue sandwiches I have ever had, was in Florida!

It came with cole slaw on the barbecue sandwich it's self, and it was so good!

Since then, I make them myself, at home like that. Maybe not as good as the restaurant I ate in, but good enuff

I am going to try out a few barbecue restaurants once I get down there, hoping to find one who makes these great sandwiches.

[NY62]

ughhh. Any New York places ? Tired of Boston already .LOL I got sick in foxboros to many red sox and patriot pics. LOL

[NY62]

But the food was good and the people were great.

[cape cod'er]

hey if you call a place boston pub...you gotta have fresh fish! I love the atmosphere of the place because it felt like home ,but the fish had no taste and any cape codder knows if it has no taste it aint fresh! yeah yeah i know you say what do you expect... were not in boston, but my brother who is a chef has it flown in fresh all the time!