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I think it has to do with the type of car also. You can buy a couple years old luxury car and you know that likely that thing was dealer-maintained, washed, etc. but if you buy a couple year old el-cheapo, chances are a college student or someone may have owned it and not maintained it at all or changed the oil, and beat the snott out of it.
We have had good luck with buy used luxury cars. On our econo boxes we always bought new and kept them til they need engine or trans work, then get rid of them. Then, Sometimes a mechanic will buy them and fix them up if you keep your car looking good.
I bought my 99 Accord approximately 3.5 years ago, for $5400. Have paid out a total of $1100 for 2 minor repairs plus routine maintenance (timing belt change, etc.). I saved up for the car, and I think I could still sell it for $3,800 or so. Just one example, but it can be done. This is how I've bought all my cars; the only time I had bad luck was with a Toyota that had been poorly maintained so make sure the car you choose has been taken care of. Even then the costs were less than having a car note.
I consider finding a good honest mechanic on a par with finding a good doctor! It's tough though. Seems like I have seen mechanic referrals on cartalk.com... you might start there for your area.
The most economical car to drive is a safe car. We buy cars new because we like the new car smell and knowing we are the only people that have owned it. We have two one owners in our driveway right now. We have a 1996 Buick Century (175,000 miles) and a 2002 Buick LeSabre (120,000 miles.) We will probably buy another car this year and I don't think it will ever be an SUV. I have seen too many of that type of vehicle on its top in the ditch. Wrecking is on thing, but rolling the vehicle is another. SUV's are just not stable.
In the past 20 years, I've bought seven cars, prices ranging from $800 to $3,000. Let's say an average of $2,000 per car, or $14,000, and that is probably on the high side. There are only 2 or 3 of them that ever had a repair bill of over $300, but maybe multiple smaller ones, so let's say in an average year, $250, that's another $5,000. TBA doesn't count, I'd have had to replace tires and batteries in cars that I bought new. There was one lemon in there that I turned around as soon as I could, and probably lost a couple of thousand.
So, over 20 years, I figure $20,000, tops, in purchase price and high-mileage repairs to cars, or $80 a month. I don't do any of my own work, so all repairs have been retail.
My current driver is an '01 Nissan Sentra, bought a year ago for $3,000, and the total cost of all repairs so far has been $125, for windshield washer pump and reservoir. The odo has run from 97K to 115K, the tires are running with perfect wear pattern, it doesn't use a drop of oil, I ran an analysis of the used oil and it came back well within normal range for all contaminants. Stick shift, no power anything, all hardware and appliances working fine, no rust.
On my own experience, buying old cars serially with 100-150K already gone has definitely worked for me.
Yes, safety is a big concern for me, as I am a single woman and have no one really to call if something happens or to drive me to work while the car is in shop, etc. That was another reason a decided to buy new.
Location: We_tside PNW (Columbia Gorge) / CO / SA TX / Thailand
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swampbird
Yes, safety is a big concern for me, as I am a single woman and have no one really to call if something happens or to drive me to work while the car is in shop, etc. ....
Good used, one-owner Toyota is my recommendation for you. I have rented several in the last few yrs that get over 35 mpg.
Safety is paramount too, and the Buicks mentioned are good for that.
I spend $1200 - $2000 for some of my fleet of 50mpg+, just to get airbags and a decent sized car "Passat". The VW Passat and Jetta are very good protection in crashes (tho you have to throw the car away afterwards... or do as I, and transplant the 50mpg engines in any number of platforms, as the engines used identical mounts 1976 - 1999.5) BUT... VW have terrible reliability (electric windows and cheesy door handles). I keep a few spares ($6 for door handles).
Cost of repairs.... good point, don't buy a used Jaguar!
All said and done (for me) I prefer my $35 VW Rabbits that get 50 mpg. (no fossil fuel required). I probably spend $500 on parts for every 200,000 miles, and $1500 if I need to rebuild an engine at 500,000 miles (or preferred...just go find another $35 car).
Check you Neighbor's Brier patch, that's a good spot to find Rabbits. (I have found several that way)
I always buy cars that have a full frame under them which means they are larger cars built heavier for a class of people that won't tolerate anything but dependability.
They are also cheaper to buy, cost less to own over the long haul and are easier to get repaired. With care my cars always last us 20 yrs of more which over time makes them cheaper and cheaper to own. BUT YA GOTTA TAKE CARE OF THEM!!
Our current vehicles are both about 20 yr old now and when the time comes I will re-power them at a cost of about $5,000 complete. That's all I will have to pay for what is essentially a "new" car for another 20 yrs. That is cheap for insurance, plates, etc with no loan or loan interest, no depreciation etc.
Do I worry about gas cost? Sure I do, but not much. We plan all trips making sure than none are wasted with willy nilly foolish driving so common among those who whine about fuel cost. In fact, for many of our in town trips we ride bicycles enjoying the air and the ride.
I have to wonder when some so-called brilliant financial "Guru" says 'Pay just a couple of thousand dollars cash for a good used car, don't ever buy a new car...".
Anyone tried to go out and buy a "good, reliable" used car for a couple of thousand dollars these days?
First of all, these days, if someone has a car and it's still good and reliable, chances are they're not selling it, they're going to drive it themselves until it becomes "unreliable"!
Second, there are very few used cars in any condition for under $5,000 out there that don't already have 100000 miles and a lot of problems to come with them.
I should know. I've purchase several such "inexpensive" cars over the past couple of years for my daughter, and every one of them ended up with way more repairs needed than the car was worth. What a pain - calling AAA for tows, cars in the shop all the time, every time a few more hundred dollars.
I'm looking at just ponying up and buying us a couple of brand new cars. Dave Ramsey and Suzie what-her-name don't live in the real world.
Your experiences are interesting since they are the exact OPPOSITE from my own.
My current (And newest) car has been my 'most expensive'
Discounting Oil changes and tires (Which would be the same on a similar vehicle)
I (Including the purchase price and repairs) am coming up on $1,000 per year.
-And this has been my WORST vehicle when it comes to repair cost... I had to get done (I am not a mechanic/inclined, but I cna lay the manual on the block, and bank my head on the block until it's fixed... but I know my limits)
ANYWAY, I had to have a whole axel replaced, and the Tranny redone.
-But this is a 4x4...
Prior to this, I was looking at a maintenance cost of $200 or less per year.
Other details: Even now, that I ride bikes for most of the year... I still drive over the 'average' 10K on four wheels.
At one point I covered 80K in less than 2 years. (IIRC alot less, but that's a safe number)
I AM looking at the future:
Ether a 99-01 Ford 250 Diesel with 100-150K on it. (Crew cab)
Or a similar Yota.
I ran the numbers and believe I'm pretty safe in thinking I'll get 100K more out of her before having many issues more than fuel pump or something I can do myself. (Probably/hopefully alot more)
$10- 12K for the truck... we're looking at $1,000 per 10,000 miles (Average person's year.)
during this time repair costs should be slim (IF you do 'due diligence' when you buy)
SO I think I'll take a 'step up' in vehicles from the 'Under $2,000' that I've driven all my life.
I've guided several women friends of mine to Yota or Nissan cars in the $5K - $6K price range... With one exception (Which was a simple fix of a few hundred bux) they have all got years of trouble free driving out of them.
JMHO that is what I'd put a Daughter etc in.
Final thought... Look at something 2 years old if you insist on 'buying new'... Atleast that way you'll take a lesser hit.
Buddy of mine just missed a Chevy (Cobalt I think)... Not a great car, but it was $13K new, and 3-4 years later the guy who got it picked it up for ~$5K.
I found that "used" resulted in a lot of repair bills and lack of reliability.
"New" (and with a deal on payment plan or with a big down payment and accelerated payment schedule) meant less repairs & improved reliablity (assuming the car or make already had a good rep for reliability...Consumer Reports does or did a good job on giving this info).
The ony issue is the first cost or upfront costs are higher for 'new', which can be an issue if one doesnt have the savings or income to cover that.
Final thought... Look at something 2 years old if you insist on 'buying new'... Atleast that way you'll take a lesser hit.
Buddy of mine just missed a Chevy (Cobalt I think)... Not a great car, but it was $13K new, and 3-4 years later the guy who got it picked it up for ~$5K.
Less than 10,000 miles on it.
Good point, esp on the mileage (though id be careful on that, since someone unloading a fairly new car with low mileage might indicate issues?)
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BUT... VW have terrible reliability (electric windows and cheesy door handles). I keep a few spares ($6 for door handles).
