You don't need to stagger when you plant the seeds as the plants will produce many more male blossoms than female blossoms.
A couple of things can effect the setting of the punkins.
Although hand pollination is the preferred method to fruit setting, natural pollination by bees will work well. Hand pollination allows for a more controlled genetic cross. Do not begin pollinating until the plant has approximately 200 leaves. Initially it is recommended to allow only 4 to 6 pumpkins per plant. Once pumpkins reach volleyball size, trim back to one pumpkin. The more you reduce the competition for nutrients, the greater your success rate will be for achieving a giant size pumpkin.
PROBLEM: My pumpkins keep flowering and setting fruit, but the fruits (pumpkins) keep withering up when they are an inch or two long. I'vetried putting wood under them, thinking they were rotting, but that hasn't worked. Now I am wondering about soils, too much water,
insects
? Any suggestions?
LIKELY ANSWER: Do you have bees (pollinators)? Sounds like pollination failure. The symtoms are classic. You may need to get bees, or hand pollinate. Your pumpkins are not getting pollinated! The female blossoms are only good for a day or two before they wither. The fruit under the female blossom will start to turn color before it opens.
PROBLEM:
A watersoaked, sunken spot develops on the blossom ends (opposite the stem ends) of squash and watermelons. The spot enlarges and turns brown to black. Mold may grow on the spot.
ANALYSIS: Blossom-end rot
This disorder of squash, watermelons,
tomatoes, and peppers is caused by a lack of calcium in the developing fruits. This lack is the result of slowed growth and damaged roots caused by any of several factors.
- Extreme fluctuations in soil moisture.
- Rapid early-season plant growth followed by extended dry weather.
- Excessive rain that smothers root hairs.
- Excess soil salts.
- Cultivating too close to the plant.
The first fruits of the season are the most severely affected. As the name implies, the disorder always starts at the blossom end, though the rot may enlarge to affect half of the fruit. Moldy growths on the rotted area are caused by fungi or bacteria that invade the damaged tissue.
SOLUTION:
Take these measures to correct the condition or control the problem.
- Maintain uniform soil moisture by mulching and proper watering.
- Avoid high-ammonia fertilizers and large quantities of fresh manure. Water regularly during dry periods.
- Plant in well-drained soil.
- If the soil or water is salty, provide more water at each watering to help leach salts through the soil. Avoid using high ammonia fertilizers and fresh manure.
- Within 1 foot of the plant, do not cultivate deeper than 1 inch.
Cucurbit Family Plant Problems - Blossom-End Rot
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ellwood
Last year tried to plant a pumpkin patch from seeds bought in store with my grandchildren: nothing. Lots of blooms but everything seemed to rot.
We are upstate NY. What is the best way to grow pumpkins? When to plant? Watering? Caring for the patch? Thanks for any advice.
|
