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Old 12-16-2011, 11:36 AM
 
Location: Durham UK
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We're having a very mild winter here and the temps are remaining in the mid 50s during the day and (apart from a couple of 29s) well above freezing for the next 10 days.
I aerated and overseeded in October and Fescue germinated and is still growing. Unfortunately the "Spring" weeds are very apparent and also growing-particularly chick weed.
Can I put weed and feed on now? I prefer this to using liquid spray on weed killer which seems to take 3 applications to kill the weeds.
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Old 12-16-2011, 02:44 PM
 
Location: Sherwood
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I hope you're not too close to "Lake Normal" while spraying all these chemicals on the lawn. The fertilizer and herbicide may run off into nearby natural areas and waterways, especially if misapplied. If you have the package, I would refer to the label for instructions or contact the manufacturer for guidelines. Bulldogdad is a landscaper and he may come along w/ other suggestions.
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Old 12-16-2011, 04:11 PM
 
Location: Durham UK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kinkytoes View Post
I hope you're not too close to "Lake Normal" while spraying all these chemicals on the lawn. The fertilizer and herbicide may run off into nearby natural areas and waterways, especially if misapplied. If you have the package, I would refer to the label for instructions or contact the manufacturer for guidelines. Bulldogdad is a landscaper and he may come along w/ other suggestions.
Across the street actually.
I do try not to use chemicals and use organic where possible, but I cannot stand having a lawn full (and I mean full)of weeds.
The first year we were on our hands and knees and we pulled out bag fulls of weed over the space of 3 weeks, but to no avail.
I also used an organic fertiliser for the lawn-milorganite, which was pretty useless . I don't use chemical fertiliser on the plants or veg garden, or weed preventers.
If it was up to me I'd get rid of most of it (we have an acre of which 1/3 is laid to lawn-rest is equal soil beds and natural woodland) and have more shrubs and plants and gravelled areas. Unfortunately not in the budget at the moment. I like my architectural plants /succulents / rhodos and azaleas far more than the d--- lawn.
Hoping that next year (having used penningtons super seed) we might end up with a nice thick lawn at least until June and the weeds will have a harder time.
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Old 12-16-2011, 04:44 PM
 
Location: Sherwood
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whatsthenews View Post
Across the street actually.
I do try not to use chemicals and use organic where possible, but I cannot stand having a lawn full (and I mean full)of weeds.
The first year we were on our hands and knees and we pulled out bag fulls of weed over the space of 3 weeks, but to no avail.
I also used an organic fertiliser for the lawn-milorganite, which was pretty useless . I don't use chemical fertiliser on the plants or veg garden, or weed preventers.
If it was up to me I'd get rid of most of it (we have an acre of which 1/3 is laid to lawn-rest is equal soil beds and natural woodland) and have more shrubs and plants and gravelled areas. Unfortunately not in the budget at the moment. I like my architectural plants /succulents / rhodos and azaleas far more than the d--- lawn.
Hoping that next year (having used penningtons super seed) we might end up with a nice thick lawn at least until June and the weeds will have a harder time.
Be careful w/ the fertilizers as well. I used Milorganite and I got algae in my pond about 30 feet away after the next rain. There was apparently significant runoff ever over grass. Excess nutrients can be just as bad for waterways. I learned a hands-on lesson about applying fertilizer responsibly.

Actually, my grass is full of weeds, too. LOL I actually throw down extra grass seed in Fall...and I converted a lot of the lawn to garden areas because I think it is prettier, and I hate mowing.

As long as you use the minimum of the chemicals needed, and apply as directed you can reduce the amount that gets into the lake. Good luck.
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Old 12-17-2011, 11:02 PM
 
Location: Durham UK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kinkytoes View Post
Be careful w/ the fertilizers as well. I used Milorganite and I got algae in my pond about 30 feet away after the next rain. There was apparently significant runoff ever over grass. Excess nutrients can be just as bad for waterways. I learned a hands-on lesson about applying fertilizer responsibly.

Actually, my grass is full of weeds, too. LOL I actually throw down extra grass seed in Fall...and I converted a lot of the lawn to garden areas because I think it is prettier, and I hate mowing.

As long as you use the minimum of the chemicals needed, and apply as directed you can reduce the amount that gets into the lake. Good luck.
Thanks- some of my spring bulbs are through, vinca is flowering (I think maybe it's not vinca actually-ground cover with pale purple flowers),some of summer annuals still flowering and I think my camelia flowers may be going to open
Just never been cold enough to kill off the annual weeds or stop the lawn from growing.

I agree that garden areas look nicer and are FAR easier to maintain if you get the right plants.
We have spent $$$$ on the lawn and fescue just doesn't like the clay soil or the hot dry summers.
I think I may overseed with bermuda next year (or year after?-I guess it needs to be done in the Spring). Would be happy to have a brown lawn in winter than one that needs constant attention.
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Old 12-18-2011, 12:03 AM
 
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Read the label on the weed control. Usually you can't apply anything within 100 of open water. But it is spelled out in the label.

Fescue in the transition zone, I'd check the soil temperature. If the soil temp is in the 50s spraying and fertlizer applications would be effective.
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Old 12-18-2011, 05:20 AM
 
Location: rain city
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whatsthenews View Post
,some of summer annuals still flowering and I think my camelia flowers may be going to open
It has been a mild winter so far.

Your camellias will probably begin to bloom in February. The buds get bigger and swell and swell--for a long time. They look like they're going to burst into bloom any day. But they won't.

February.
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Old 12-18-2011, 10:05 PM
 
Location: Durham UK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SD4020 View Post
Read the label on the weed control. Usually you can't apply anything within 100 of open water. But it is spelled out in the label.

Fescue in the transition zone, I'd check the soil temperature. If the soil temp is in the 50s spraying and fertlizer applications would be effective.
Thanks!
Yes -this transition zone is rather problematic!
We aren't within 100ft of open water-I think the neighbors across the street on the water must just ignore the 100 ft rule.

Emm-how do I check the soil temp? I have a meat thermometer-


Our Camelia does usually bloom in Feb/March but at this time of the year I can't usually see any pink at the tip of the buds like I can at the moment.
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Old 12-19-2011, 09:37 AM
 
Location: Durham UK
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Here we go.
Agree?
How to Measure Soil Temperature for Planting | Danny Lipford

According to this map we are probably just below 50F-but I know a lot depends on exposure etc so I will go and get me a thermometer!
http://www.greencastonline.com/SoilTempMaps.aspx
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Old 12-20-2011, 07:03 PM
 
Location: Florida
644 posts, read 672,454 times
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When you go putting poisons on your lawn do you consider that your neighbors may have water wells that will be affected, not to mention your own?
Green is green, why not just get used to it?

I think ALL lawn poisons should be outlawed.
We have enough artificial chemicals to contend with in our lives that we have no control over.
There are already 100 thousand chemicals in our environment.
Hundred Years of Lies about food and chemicals

Why would any sane person want to deliberately add more to our already polluted environment?
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