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A few months ago I started this thread How to cover ugly chainlink fence and all of my plans were basically destroyed when I discovered just how much poison ivy I had in the area along my fence. I think I finally have it under control after multiple applications of spray. There's still a few poison ivy seedlings that sprout here and there, though, as well as some other weeds that I can't identify.
So now the issue is that I have a 3 foot wide, 100 foot long strip of land that used to be covered in brush as tall as me, and it's trying to head that way again. When I first cleared it I put down some paper weed block, bark mulch, and leaf mulch. That's definitely helped, but I still have to spot spray every week or two. I'm thinking I should intentionally plant something low maintenance so that it can police itself; I was thinking of creeping thyme or microclover. Are those
resilient enough to block out weed seeds? Would they even grow in the leaf mulch/real mulch combo layer I have? Also It's already July and I'm in zone 6b, so is it even sensible to seed now?
Maybe I should just apply some Preen and worry about what to plant there next spring?
Those are good choices, microclover and creeping thyme. The thyme may take a few years to really take off though. I have a patch that is beautiful, and it really is dense enough to suppress weed growth. It's a lot better than vinca groundcover for that. I would leave the project until fall, but between now and then, how would you apply Preen if you have already put down paper weed block and mulch?
It's too hot for anything to germinate and it's too hot to plant now.
But...are you sure you want to put low growing groundcover along that ugly chainlink fence. Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't this the opposite of what you were wanting to do in your original thread?
Those are good choices, microclover and creeping thyme. The thyme may take a few years to really take off though. I have a patch that is beautiful, and it really is dense enough to suppress weed growth. It's a lot better than vinca groundcover for that. I would leave the project until fall, but between now and then, how would you apply Preen if you have already put down paper weed block and mulch?
It's too hot for anything to germinate and it's too hot to plant now.
But...are you sure you want to put low growing groundcover along that ugly chainlink fence. Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't this the opposite of what you were wanting to do in your original thread?
Leave it until the fall hmm? Interseting, I would not have thought that would be a good time. Is the goal just to get the seed in place to over winter, or to actually have it grow a little bit in the fall and come back next spring?
The reason I mentioned Preen is because I really don't know if the weeds are growing from the dirt below the mulch layer, or if they were transported along with the mulch or through bird droppings. I also don't know if it is new seeds germinating, or the same root growing back over and over. Since I've been spraying round up, I've been assuming it's newly germinated seeds. My neighbor suggested I pave the whole thing over with concrete .
And yes, this really doesn't accomplish my goal for the fence, but right now blocking out future poison ivy and brush is the main goal. It's along a street where children play a lot. This isn't just crabgrass and dandelions either, I can't really identify most of them, but they are pretty "brushy" looking if you know what I mean. Definitely more of an eyesore than regular weeds if left unchecked. Long term I'm thinking I can still have vining plants on the fence along with the creeping thyme or microclover. Of course, simply replacing the fence is beginning to look more attractive, too.
If you are still dealing with poison ivy regardless of where it's coming from, runners or seed, don't do anything to that area. You need to get as much as you can up before you plant anything cause trying to kill something with desirables planting interspersed is a nightmare.
Preen will help with new seeds but most ivy comes from underground runners. Are you sure you got the roots. poison ivy has a fibrous root system and even the roots can cause rash, burning gets poison in the lungs but it must be dealt with before you plant anything.
And yes fall is the best time to plant EVERYTHING except annuals. Roots have a good mild time to get established and by spring top growth will be better.
Just reread your OP. "Plant" and "seed" are not the same. Plant means dig a hole and plant something already growing while seed means scatter seed down. Some plants do actually call for fall seeding but I'm not sure of the things you mentioned as I've always seen them in 6 paks at the nursery. 100 ft is a long area so planting might be too expensive. You might start your seed inside late winter and then plant after last frost. or only do a small section this year to see how it works out for you. Personally if I had a 100 long fence I would want a beautiful mixed perennial border with daylilies, clematiS) (especially
Sweet Autumn Clematis,) other desirable vines like Amethyst Falls Wisteria, canna lilies, sunflowers and other tall flowers like Joe Pye Weed which can be tied to the fence for support.
Till that whole area up to bring up dormant seeds, kill those and till again and then by fall you will be ready for a beautiful perennial border and mulch. You should also consider this area for a vegetable garden. or mix the perennials with veggies.
By the way, if no trees are around and you still have weeds and woody shrubs you didn't get, use a brush killer to make sure nothing comes back from roots. It's the best way to prepare a really weedy and brushy area for new plantings.
Sorry for mixing up planting vs seeding. I meant seeding as I don't think I have the budget to plant anything, and I can't imagine planting microclover (creeping thyme might be a different story though?).
I'll just be honest and admit that I'm not going to till it. I'd rather continue to spray than attempt to till it. It's strewn with stumps and I'm sure there are thick roots underground. It's technically the city's property, between the street and my fence, but they aren't much for doing anything other than cutting down the brush every few years from what I've heard (haven't lived here long). Since it's the city's side, that's why I wanted something that looks roughly like grass (I'd hate to come home one day to find out they cut down some beautiful perennial garden I've been working on!). I haven't sprayed for maybe two weeks now and I counted just 3 poison ivy plants out there today, all under 12 inches, so I would think tilling isn't called for.
Sorry for mixing up planting vs seeding. I meant seeding as I don't think I have the budget to plant anything, and I can't imagine planting microclover (creeping thyme might be a different story though?).
I'll just be honest and admit that I'm not going to till it. I'd rather continue to spray than attempt to till it. It's strewn with stumps and I'm sure there are thick roots underground. It's technically the city's property, between the street and my fence, but they aren't much for doing anything other than cutting down the brush every few years from what I've heard (haven't lived here long). Since it's the city's side, that's why I wanted something that looks roughly like grass (I'd hate to come home one day to find out they cut down some beautiful perennial garden I've been working on!). I haven't sprayed for maybe two weeks now and I counted just 3 poison ivy plants out there today, all under 12 inches, so I would think tilling isn't called for.
Definitely wait until you have dispensed with the poison ivy before planting anything. I would definitely NOT till if there's poison ivy as that is likely to break up the roots into more roots. Keep using weed killer on it.
Some no-mow ground covers you might consider are variegated bishop's weed, lamium, ladies mantle, and various low growing sedums. You can also use the more common hostas, either the plain green ones or the striped ones. Another possibility is "ditch lilies", the orange daylilies that grow wild along country roads. Usually, these plants all spread easily, so anybody who has some of these probably has some they need to get rid of as well, and gardeners tend to be generous in sharing plants. Around here, it's not uncommon to see containers of hostas by the curb with "free to good home" signs on them!
As for planting on city property, it all depends on your municipality. My city is really proactive in encouraging gardening. The city has turned over numerous empty lots created by demo'ing slummy houses over to various groups for community gardens. They'll plant a tree in front of your house gratis if your street is on their "re-tree" list, and they encourage people to put gardens in the tree lawns (the strips between the sidewalks and the streets).
After I got my pink flowering crabapple from the city a few years ago, I started a garden around it. It now takes up about 2/3 of the tree lawn. It's cost me very little, mostly just some mulch and the labor for it, because I filled it with "extra" perennials from my other gardens. It's full of hostas, columbines, daylilies, peonies, iris, lady's mantle, garden phlox, missouri primrose, and rudbeckia. I've bought a couple of plants like achillea, allium, and campanula to fill in. Mostly, I scatter cosmos and cleome seeds around it to provide color later in the summer and fall. Every year, there's more garden and less grass (I don't mow my front "lawn" at all any more, it's all garden).
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