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I have 2 persimmon, 4 mango, 1 starfruit, 6 goji berry, 2 citrus, 2 guava, 2 Barbados cherry, and I pomergrant. all of these are in containers. I am in texas zone 8. you can go well with fig ( not really rare) maybe the Barbados cherry. those are superfruits. 1 small cherry = 15 oranges in vitamin C. but I think they are more tropical and might freeze at 40 degrees. unless you get them indoors during cold spells
I think the persimmons, goji berries, and pomegranate can go in the ground. They can take the cold of San Antonio.
I planted 2 Asian pears last year. One I bought from a local nursery called the Shinseki. The other I had to buy online called the Olympic, a.k.a. the Korean Giant. I learned that I had to "train" the pear branches by bending them, otherwise they grow straight up. No fruits yet though.
Thanks HB2HSV! You are a fountain of knowledge. My pear trees DO grow straight up, which is nice to know if I ever want to plant a fastigiate-type fruit tree...but not so great for reaching the pears.
I got one of those things you use to pick up trash to pick them...but HEY TRAINING! I'll try that. Let me know if you have any tips on how to go about it.
Thanks HB2HSV! You are a fountain of knowledge. My pear trees DO grow straight up, which is nice to know if I ever want to plant a fastigiate-type fruit tree...but not so great for reaching the pears.
I got one of those things you use to pick up trash to pick them...but HEY TRAINING! I'll try that. Let me know if you have any tips on how to go about it.
WOW, a 2 year old thread
A bit of progress report on my asian pear trees. The Olympic has produced lots of pears last year and the Shinseiki is just starting to produce this year. I think it may have to do with the size of hole I dug when I planted them. For the Olympic I dug a 6 foot diameter hole but for the Shinseiki I only dug a 3 foot diameter (I was tired and it was getting dark ). I think I will need to expand it this year for several of my fruit trees.
So "training" the fastigiate-type fruit tree (good word. I had to look it up ). The easiest way I've found for me is, when the branch is still young and easily bendable, I'd loop a string around the branch and weigh it down with a brick at the bottom so the branch spread out around a 45 degree angle. I'd leave it there for several months until the branch hardens, then repeat with other branches.
The other part is about prunning. Basically, the fruits do me no good if I can not reach them. It will be donated to the birds. Also, I'd want to be able physically get in close to the center of tree to pick my fruits without being blocked by lots of branches. There is also a tree-health benefit to prunning as well.
Here a good video on pear tree prunning. He looks a little weird but I actually learn a lot from this video.
Don't you wish I knew? I got them at a big box store, and I don't recall the variety. It was before I wised up and started keeping my plant tags.
if it's from a local big box store, its likely the orient pear which is not exactly the same as an oriental pear. Orient pear (pyrus communis) is a cross between an oriental pear and a common pear
I made a mistake and purchased one of these at the local big box store, but where I live just about everything will succumb to fire blight.
These are said to be very fruitful so you don't need to cross pollinate.
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I planted 2 Asian pears last year. One I bought from a local nursery called the Shinseki. The other I had to buy online called the Olympic, a.k.a. the Korean Giant. I learned that I had to "train" the pear branches by bending them, otherwise they grow straight up. No fruits yet though.
). The easiest way I've found for me is, when the branch is still young and easily bendable, I'd loop a string around the branch and weigh it down with a brick at the bottom so the branch spread out around a 45 degree angle. I'd leave it there for several months until the branch hardens, then repeat with other branches.
