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Old 07-07-2014, 02:33 AM
 
Location: Swiftwater, PA
13,148 posts, read 10,574,410 times
Reputation: 9314

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Quote:
Originally Posted by shyguylh View Post
If you're unable to help, it's okay, and I appreciate it just the same.

This one was one that was "ugly but works," and the guy selling it was able to get it working by removing the air filter, spraying the area with starter spray, and it would crank right up. (He said the "primer" bulb was broken and that was the way to get it working otherwise.) I did the same "rinse, lather, repeat" procedure, and it cranked up. Upon getting it home, same thing, it cranked.

Then, my wife hit something, probably high grass (but I don't know for SURE, it MAY have been a tree stump) and it shut off and no matter what, it refused to re-crank when it had on every other occasion that day. Then the starter cord snapped in two from my trying to pull on it so hard.

Someone mentioned how if you hit a root or rock etc then it throws off the flywheel or breaks a shaft or SOMETHING and then it won't re-start until it's fixed. While I myself take pains to avoid tree stumps etc, to me that's still silly. One of my favorite expressions dealing with lawnmowers is "just TAKE it," meaning I don't care if I hit 12 tree stumps/roots in a row (although I don't in reality), no matter, just TAKE it and keep on trucking. It's so easy for something like that to be concealed by grass and really, should that sort of thing just immediately knock you out of commission PERMANENTLY until you get it fixed? I want something that just TAKES it and keeps on going without whining. I've got a job to do and get done, I don't have much inclination to deal with this sort of thing so freaking often.

As cheap as I got this thing for ($10, yes, $10), I tend to think it's not worth fixing (especially with you having to remove the air filter and spray starter chemicals on it everytime you crank it, imagine how irritating that would become when it chokes off a lot in high grass). Then again it's self-propelled and one of those nicer 6 HP big-real-wheel types. Also, before anyone goes "it costs $10 you can't complain," well I'd agree except that it started every time at the guy's place with him AND with me and it started right up here as well before whatever happened, so that sort of set me up for expecting that to continue.
They don't make mowers that can take it and keep on trucking. One good rock or root can put an indentation in the flywheel key of the B&S motors or shatter the flywheel on Tecumseh. Of course that was back in the 1970's when I had my shop - perhaps they have changed? If you want a mower to cut rocks; find an old restored 7.6 hp Gravely walk behind.

Considering the problems you mentioned; I would try to find another one for $10. If, however, your determined to get this one going - first tell us what you have. Since you have motor problems; start off with the make, model and serial number of the motor. It is usually located on the blower housing.

Did you try doing the little test I asked you to do? I have a feeling the sparkplug will be dry; if your primer bulb is ruptured. I see that Googling how much are primer bulbs for lawnmowers; you can find one for between $3 to $6 - but you need the correct one for your motor. The new flywheel key, if needed, is about $2.50 (they used to be a $.25 in my day). But I need more information before we send you out shopping.
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Old 07-07-2014, 04:39 AM
 
Location: Near the Coast SWCT
64,997 posts, read 47,321,826 times
Reputation: 10512
lol. I always wondered why lawnmowers were so easy to crank and glad they got better overtime.

I think I'll contribute it to brand name.

I had a Toro for 7 years & I was shocked when it would start with 1 pull in the spring after it sat all winter. Bought that from Home Cheapo. Another surprise. Finally ended up blowing up.

Now I have a WeedEater I bought from someone. So far so good.

If you have a well known name brand and its hard to crank then it could be a matter of maintenance, age, or defect. Call the manufacturer and ask them.

Same question can go towards BBQs. Why some barbeques don't start when you hit the ignite button. That's just a push and spark thing. There are answers for that too.
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Old 07-07-2014, 05:03 AM
 
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
9,866 posts, read 8,007,103 times
Reputation: 11220
Once upon a time (in the late 50s), I owned a "slightly used" 1926 IH truck, an even earlier vintage magneto one lunger that powered a circular saw on the back of the truck, and and slightly used 1959 (forget the make) Briggs and Stratton-powered, reel lawnmower. The lawn mower was easier to start! But you

But you couldn't make as much money mowing lawns as you could cutting up old snags with a 2-person saw and then sawing them into firewood with the circular saw. Another enterprising 16-year old and I each cleared over $500/year doing that in the summers. (The lawn mower cost more than the truck, the one-lunger, leather drive belt and circular saw at an estate auction!).
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Old 07-07-2014, 09:41 AM
 
3,279 posts, read 3,758,199 times
Reputation: 6149
Quote:
Originally Posted by fisheye View Post
They don't make mowers that can take it and keep on trucking. One good rock or root can put an indentation in the flywheel key of the B&S motors or shatter the flywheel on Tecumseh. Of course that was back in the 1970's when I had my shop - perhaps they have changed? If you want a mower to cut rocks; find an old restored 7.6 hp Gravely walk behind.

Considering the problems you mentioned; I would try to find another one for $10. If, however, your determined to get this one going - first tell us what you have. Since you have motor problems; start off with the make, model and serial number of the motor. It is usually located on the blower housing.

Did you try doing the little test I asked you to do? I have a feeling the sparkplug will be dry; if your primer bulb is ruptured. I see that Googling how much are primer bulbs for lawnmowers; you can find one for between $3 to $6 - but you need the correct one for your motor. The new flywheel key, if needed, is about $2.50 (they used to be a $.25 in my day). But I need more information before we send you out shopping.
The mower is a Poulon, 6 HP and self-propelled with big rear wheels.

Well I don't know if you noticed where I stated this, but the cord also came off, I did manage to reattach it somehow (that itself is a miracle) but I apparently didn't do it properly, as the motor/starter or whatever that thing is on the top underneath the grill/housing didn't rewind and when you pull the cord it hardly spins any. I did somehow "rewind" it once after attaching the cord by using a screwdriver and poking away at it counterclockwise but after that first pull there is no "rewind" left. (I don't know if I'm describing it properly.)

As for finding another one for $10--good luck, heck the one I got 3 years ago for $40, I can hardly find any of those, even on Craigslist. Everyone is asking at least $75 and typically closer to $100.

I sure do wish they DID make a mower that can "just take it." It's very easy for there to be a submerged rock or piece of a brick etc, or root, that you just flat-out can't see. That's a VERY common scenario and hard to totally avoid. Mowers should be able to take something like that which is so common. Asking for a mower to be able to "just take it" with respect to that is not the same as, say, stating that a car should be able to "just take" ramming into a tree etc.
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Old 07-07-2014, 10:22 AM
 
Location: Swiftwater, PA
13,148 posts, read 10,574,410 times
Reputation: 9314
Quote:
Originally Posted by shyguylh View Post
The mower is a Poulon, 6 HP and self-propelled with big rear wheels.

Well I don't know if you noticed where I stated this, but the cord also came off, I did manage to reattach it somehow (that itself is a miracle) but I apparently didn't do it properly, as the motor/starter or whatever that thing is on the top underneath the grill/housing didn't rewind and when you pull the cord it hardly spins any. I did somehow "rewind" it once after attaching the cord by using a screwdriver and poking away at it counterclockwise but after that first pull there is no "rewind" left. (I don't know if I'm describing it properly.)

As for finding another one for $10--good luck, heck the one I got 3 years ago for $40, I can hardly find any of those, even on Craigslist. Everyone is asking at least $75 and typically closer to $100.

I sure do wish they DID make a mower that can "just take it." It's very easy for there to be a submerged rock or piece of a brick etc, or root, that you just flat-out can't see. That's a VERY common scenario and hard to totally avoid. Mowers should be able to take something like that which is so common. Asking for a mower to be able to "just take it" with respect to that is not the same as, say, stating that a car should be able to "just take" ramming into a tree etc.
Even old lawnmower mechanics make mistakes when it come to choosing the right mower. Two years ago I bought an Ariens riding tractor with a 46 inch mower. The very first trip around my yard and I broke one of the deck spindles. It cuts too low and unless I change all of the tires; I can never raise the deck high enough - poor decision. I still use it - but only for flat, stone free, land. I use a 30 year old Gravely for the tough spots.

Here is a link to a YouTube video on how to replace your lawnmower rope:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MDfKXLoj1hM. Hopefully that will help. Let us know more about the motor your working on. Look for that manufacturer's name, model and serial number. That would help me or anybody else give you accurate information.
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Old 07-07-2014, 11:13 AM
 
Location: NE Mississippi
11,363 posts, read 7,408,144 times
Reputation: 16969
It's not a lawn mower, but I'll tell you what I did to my antique, won't-start, 1987 B&S powered chipper/mulcher;

I took off the pull starter. That exposed a 9/16 bolt head. Then I chucked up a 9/16 bit into my variable speed 3/8 inch drill and wound that sucker up to about a jillion RPM! It starts now.

Works so well that if I had a lawn mower giving me a lot of trouble I would use the same approach.
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Old 07-08-2014, 08:04 PM
 
Location: Canada
5,478 posts, read 6,188,133 times
Reputation: 7863
Quote:
Originally Posted by Listener2307 View Post
It's not a lawn mower, but I'll tell you what I did to my antique, won't-start, 1987 B&S powered chipper/mulcher;

I took off the pull starter. That exposed a 9/16 bolt head. Then I chucked up a 9/16 bit into my variable speed 3/8 inch drill and wound that sucker up to about a jillion RPM! It starts now.

Works so well that if I had a lawn mower giving me a lot of trouble I would use the same approach.
I suppose that would be a bad idea for a two year old gas chainsaw I have trouble starting? It seems to require more muscle than I have. In fact, on my own I can't get it started at all. I bought a 14 inch chainsaw thinking if I could get a weed eater running, I could get a chainsaw started. (I'm a woman and I don't weigh very much, hence the small size of the chainsaw).
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