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Old 03-16-2016, 04:12 AM
 
Location: Zone 6B ~ Northern VA
1,401 posts, read 2,044,218 times
Reputation: 392

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Sounds like you didn't use crabgrass preventer then?

Quote:
Originally Posted by fresnochili View Post
sorry, just now chking back in.

I used Scott's Turf Builder. Winterguard. Weed n Feed control.

Some guy at Home Depot recommended it to me.
And you know what I do, and it's prob wrong... have my gardeners mow and just leave the clippings on
the lawn. Not to catch them.

So, I'm prob spreading those seeds ALL over the place. Geez.
My lawn looks so bad, I'm embarrassed, but it's GREEN!!

How much is artificial turf? I'm gonna say my lawn area is abt 1000 sq.ft.
Does that sound like alot?
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Old 03-16-2016, 10:16 AM
 
1,026 posts, read 665,821 times
Reputation: 1116
Quote:
Originally Posted by fresnochili View Post
sorry, just now chking back in.

I used Scott's Turf Builder. Winterguard. Weed n Feed control.

Some guy at Home Depot recommended it to me.
And you know what I do, and it's prob wrong... have my gardeners mow and just leave the clippings on
the lawn. Not to catch them.

So, I'm prob spreading those seeds ALL over the place. Geez.
My lawn looks so bad, I'm embarrassed, but it's GREEN!!

How much is artificial turf? I'm gonna say my lawn area is abt 1000 sq.ft.
Does that sound like alot?

You don't need turf, you just need the correct information. The guy at homedepot gave you the wrong information, or he gave you the right information but at the wrong time of year. If your lawn is that small you should have no problem getting a beautiful lawn with minimal expense or work.

You can rent a dethatcher from homedept for $40 and rip everything up. Go over it with a mower and bag everything to dispose of as it'll be mostly crabgrass and their seeds (Your lawn will look like junk for 3-4 weeks after this). The trick after thatching is to pick a grass seed that will grow FAST so it chokes out the crabgrass from getting sunlight, perennial rye is one of the fastest growing, it also happens to be cheap. Put down the seed with a starter fertilizer and water it often, some say 3 times a day, others say once a day for a long time. I usually did twice a day for 15 mins a zone then a quick 5 min blast each zone before bed. My results were truly amazing.

The following year put down your crabgrass preventer early spring (stops any leftover crabgrass seed from growing), weed and feed late spring (kills any weeds that were able to grow) and over-seed with your grass of choice and fertilize in the fall (Gives a thick full lawn that prevents weeds from growing).

You probably wont have to use the thatcher ever again so long as you put down the preventer early spring, use a weed and feed if you ever do notice weeds popping up, and overseed and fertilize in the fall.
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Old 03-16-2016, 11:24 AM
 
1,228 posts, read 789,970 times
Reputation: 1876
Quote:
Originally Posted by gunslinger256 View Post
usually the guys at the big box stores dont know what theyre telling you.

i try to avoid the weed and feed because i dont want to fertilize the weeds because it feels wasteful and counter-productive

just walk the lawn with a sprayer and kill the weeds. use roundup on dormant bermuda or 2,4-d on green grass

Good idea abt the Roundup. I was going to buy some anyway. Thx.
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Old 03-16-2016, 11:27 AM
 
1,228 posts, read 789,970 times
Reputation: 1876
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericp501 View Post
You don't need turf, you just need the correct information. The guy at homedepot gave you the wrong information, or he gave you the right information but at the wrong time of year. If your lawn is that small you should have no problem getting a beautiful lawn with minimal expense or work.

You can rent a dethatcher from homedept for $40 and rip everything up. Go over it with a mower and bag everything to dispose of as it'll be mostly crabgrass and their seeds (Your lawn will look like junk for 3-4 weeks after this). The trick after thatching is to pick a grass seed that will grow FAST so it chokes out the crabgrass from getting sunlight, perennial rye is one of the fastest growing, it also happens to be cheap. Put down the seed with a starter fertilizer and water it often, some say 3 times a day, others say once a day for a long time. I usually did twice a day for 15 mins a zone then a quick 5 min blast each zone before bed. My results were truly amazing.

The following year put down your crabgrass preventer early spring (stops any leftover crabgrass seed from growing), weed and feed late spring (kills any weeds that were able to grow) and over-seed with your grass of choice and fertilize in the fall (Gives a thick full lawn that prevents weeds from growing).

You probably wont have to use the thatcher ever again so long as you put down the preventer early spring, use a weed and feed if you ever do notice weeds popping up, and overseed and fertilize in the fall.

Good advice. I'll keep it in mind. Thx.
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Old 03-16-2016, 12:35 PM
 
Location: Zone 6B ~ Northern VA
1,401 posts, read 2,044,218 times
Reputation: 392
Do not care for so called Weed & Feed due to the particles have to stick to the leaves of the weeds. Also features generally too much nitrogen that time of the year.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ericp501 View Post
You don't need turf, you just need the correct information. The guy at homedepot gave you the wrong information, or he gave you the right information but at the wrong time of year. If your lawn is that small you should have no problem getting a beautiful lawn with minimal expense or work.

You can rent a dethatcher from homedept for $40 and rip everything up. Go over it with a mower and bag everything to dispose of as it'll be mostly crabgrass and their seeds (Your lawn will look like junk for 3-4 weeks after this). The trick after thatching is to pick a grass seed that will grow FAST so it chokes out the crabgrass from getting sunlight, perennial rye is one of the fastest growing, it also happens to be cheap. Put down the seed with a starter fertilizer and water it often, some say 3 times a day, others say once a day for a long time. I usually did twice a day for 15 mins a zone then a quick 5 min blast each zone before bed. My results were truly amazing.

The following year put down your crabgrass preventer early spring (stops any leftover crabgrass seed from growing), weed and feed late spring (kills any weeds that were able to grow) and over-seed with your grass of choice and fertilize in the fall (Gives a thick full lawn that prevents weeds from growing).

You probably wont have to use the thatcher ever again so long as you put down the preventer early spring, use a weed and feed if you ever do notice weeds popping up, and overseed and fertilize in the fall.
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Old 03-16-2016, 12:44 PM
 
1,026 posts, read 665,821 times
Reputation: 1116
Quote:
Originally Posted by movin2Reston View Post
Do not care for so called Weed & Feed due to the particles have to stick to the leaves of the weeds. Also features generally too much nitrogen that time of the year.

Water the lawn just before applying to get it to stick to the weeds and make sure there's no rain the the forecast for at least 24 hours. If the bag says it'll cover 10,000sq/ft and you have a 10,000sq/ft lawn just put your spreader to a lower setting and only use 3/4 of the bag. You'll kill off a good percentage of the weeds without overdoing it. Whatever is left over you can pull by hand or hit with a little sprayer to kill the weeds off.
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Old 03-16-2016, 03:15 PM
 
23,772 posts, read 30,665,081 times
Reputation: 28259
I bit the bullet last year and hired a landscaping company to do all the various applications of lawn stuff, and also the fall aeration and seeding. Costs me twice as much as doing it myself, but the time and stress it saves me is just so worth it!
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Old 03-16-2016, 07:52 PM
 
Location: Zone 6B ~ Northern VA
1,401 posts, read 2,044,218 times
Reputation: 392
Guess I have never had more than a weed here or there so much easier just to spot treat.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ericp501 View Post
Water the lawn just before applying to get it to stick to the weeds and make sure there's no rain the the forecast for at least 24 hours. If the bag says it'll cover 10,000sq/ft and you have a 10,000sq/ft lawn just put your spreader to a lower setting and only use 3/4 of the bag. You'll kill off a good percentage of the weeds without overdoing it. Whatever is left over you can pull by hand or hit with a little sprayer to kill the weeds off.
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Old 03-19-2016, 08:49 PM
 
Location: Zone 6B ~ Northern VA
1,401 posts, read 2,044,218 times
Reputation: 392
Cooler temps this weekend for those that might have missed their crabgrass preventer.
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Old 03-20-2016, 07:29 PM
Status: "Tw_tter Disabled My Account...and I'm a real user" (set 16 days ago)
 
Location: Land of Free Johnson-Weld-2016
6,454 posts, read 13,224,646 times
Reputation: 6367
As much as I hate crabgrass, it is preferable to using chemicals on my grass. Thank GOD my contiguous neighbors feel the same about this.
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