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The most amazing thing I've ever seen is a climber. There wasn't going to be any cherry picker or anything like it. The guy put on spikes and climbed the tree like a chimp. All but one of the upper branches fell where he intended. The earth shook when the trunk sections fell to the ground. He was really good.
I asked him how much to cut down a couple of small trees growing a few feet from the foundation. Forty bucks. Ahhh, English was his second language. Forty bucks it was.
He was not only an experienced tree cutter, he spoke a second language and was an astute businessman.
I've only trimmed some branches with the small electric chainsaw. I'm not going to find another way to hurt myself.
You will not find many today for forty bucks! I don't think forty bucks would pay their insurance. How many years ago was that? At one time I sold a cord of firewood for $35 - that was just a few years ago (+).
I always wanted a set of spikes to climb trees. When I was young I could shimmy up many trees without spikes; now I can only shimmy down trees! When I try to shimmy up I only end up hugging the tree! Of course, if I cut it down, I could walk the tree; instead of shimming the tree!
You will not find many today for forty bucks! I don't think forty bucks would pay their insurance. How many years ago was that? At one time I sold a cord of firewood for $35 - that was just a few years ago (+).
I always wanted a set of spikes to climb trees. When I was young I could shimmy up many trees without spikes; now I can only shimmy down trees! When I try to shimmy up I only end up hugging the tree! Of course, if I cut it down, I could walk the tree; instead of shimming the tree!
I'd guess it was about ten years ago. I think he was an employee and the $40 went in his pocket. The two little trees went out to the chipper. The whole thing only took a few minutes.
I'd guess it was about ten years ago. I think he was an employee and the $40 went in his pocket. The two little trees went out to the chipper. The whole thing only took a few minutes.
Now that is another topic: Chipper Safety. I remember when we had one man in Allentown that rented one and did not wash off the blood before he returned it. I think he was sentenced to life! I guess it always pays to keep your tools clean!
I can't stress enough how dangerous chain saws are when placed in the hands of someone with a "little" experience.
Nevermind the falling limbs, bees nests etc. The saw itself is a death machine. The proof is that in some markets insurance companies will no longer insurance anyone to use one without the full and proper training and testing. Just too many people injurying themselves and others.
About this case I guess it's more important the size of chainsaw. If you have a small one It's easy operate and it's much more save
I've resently bought electric one. It's only 11 pounds. I've tried it and it's very easy nd very safety. Before I worked with Husqvarna so I have what to compare. If once you will need it onse check 4d option (mod cut link)
Fisheye, it is obvious to me that the tree was going to fall in the direction that had the most branches on it in this one... but UGH. I hope that wasn't their house. I'm afraid to use a chainsaw, but I do use a reciprocating saw and cut trees about 6 inches in diameter. *I now use a hardhat and goggles. I cut down trees in the woods.
My questions are:
1. What is the danger of cutting a tree that is rotten or hollow in the inside?
2. Which way is best to cut down trees? - My old method was to look at the tree and see where it will fall: the side with the most branches, where it is leaning etc. Tie the tree with rope in that direction to another tree.
Then cut a notch or wedge in the side where it will fall.
Then do a straight cut on the other side until the tree falls over. With that method, the tree has always fallen in the direction it was supposed to.
But one of my colleagues and somebody on CD suggested I try another method of tying the tree to pull it in the direction where it will fall. Then cutting only on one side and trying to kick the tree over. I've had limited success with this. What is the right way?
Fisheye, it is obvious to me that the tree was going to fall in the direction that had the most branches on it in this one... but UGH. I hope that wasn't their house. I'm afraid to use a chainsaw, but I do use a reciprocating saw and cut trees about 6 inches in diameter. *I now use a hardhat and goggles. I cut down trees in the woods.
My questions are:
1. What is the danger of cutting a tree that is rotten or hollow in the inside?
2. Which way is best to cut down trees? - My old method was to look at the tree and see where it will fall: the side with the most branches, where it is leaning etc. Tie the tree with rope in that direction to another tree.
Then cut a notch or wedge in the side where it will fall.
Then do a straight cut on the other side until the tree falls over. With that method, the tree has always fallen in the direction it was supposed to.
But one of my colleagues and somebody on CD suggested I try another method of tying the tree to pull it in the direction where it will fall. Then cutting only on one side and trying to kick the tree over. I've had limited success with this. What is the right way?
The one problem with your reciprocating saw is that it is hard to see the saw cut closing on your blade. I do see that the electric chain saws are very inexpensive; perhaps you could try one of them? The advantage of chainsaws is that they cut much quicker and, if you keep your eye on the saw cut, you can see the cut closing or opening. The closing cut means that the tree is starting to come back and will pinch the chain/bar/blade and the tree might be heading in your direction. The cut opening means that the tree is starting to fall away from you - the right direction.
Some dead trees can be brittle and snap. Some live trees, like White Pine, can also snap. For those trees I do not like to cut the wedge. I prefer to make one cut from the direction that I do not want the tree to fall and use wedges or simply push the tree in that falling direction. Sometimes I will rope them and pull them with my truck or come-a-long. They make good plastic wedges that will not damage your saw if you hit it by accident with you saw.
The one problem with your reciprocating saw is that it is hard to see the saw cut closing on your blade. I do see that the electric chain saws are very inexpensive; perhaps you could try one of them? The advantage of chainsaws is that they cut much quicker and, if you keep your eye on the saw cut, you can see the cut closing or opening. The closing cut means that the tree is starting to come back and will pinch the chain/bar/blade and the tree might be heading in your direction. The cut opening means that the tree is starting to fall away from you - the right direction.
Some dead trees can be brittle and snap. Some live trees, like White Pine, can also snap. For those trees I do not like to cut the wedge. I prefer to make one cut from the direction that I do not want the tree to fall and use wedges or simply push the tree in that falling direction. Sometimes I will rope them and pull them with my truck or come-a-long. They make good plastic wedges that will not damage your saw if you hit it by accident with you saw.
Thanks fisheye, that does help. I'll keep cutting notches. I bought an electric chainsaw but I was too scared to use it. Maybe I'll just do saplings or go back to girdling trees...
By the way, what do you mean snap. Will the tree explode or something? Is it dangerous to try to cut a notch in a dead or rotten tree that appears to be alive?
Thanks fisheye, that does help. I'll keep cutting notches. I bought an electric chainsaw but I was too scared to use it. Maybe I'll just do saplings or go back to girdling trees...
By the way, what do you mean snap. Will the tree explode or something? Is it dangerous to try to cut a notch in a dead or rotten tree that appears to be alive?
You stated that most trees you cut are under 6" in diameter. Usually you do not have too many problems with the smaller trees (not that you might not). Here, in Northeastern PA, we have many large Oaks that were damaged years ago by, I believe, acid rain. Many of these trees are one and a half to two and a half feet in diameter. You can tell them because the wood smells like it has fermented. Sometimes you even smell that fermentation inside supermarkets that sell small bundles of wood. If these trees are recently dead there are not any problems. However, if their centers have been dead for a long time, carpenter ants have taken a toll on the once healthy wood. Then, the tried and proven cutting wedge method, could fail.
That 'snap' can happen if the wood is rotten inside or when you cut trees that don't flex - like White Pine. Have you ever lived through an ice storm and looked at what happened to the White Pines? Unlike most trees that have limbs that bend; the White Pine limbs simply snap off. For the wedging system to work best; you need some flex.
When I was selling firewood and cutting deep in the woods, without fear of power lines or houses, I would simply look at which way I thought the tree would fall (Like you do), and make one cut starting at the side that I felt was the 'safe' side. I also cut about one firewood log up from the ground - easier on my back and I was in a better position to run if things went wrong.
I know that you are afraid of your electric saw - so be careful. But don't let your fear be a problem; hold the saw securely and follow the manufacturers recommendations. Keep you eyes on the saw cut as you approach the half way mark on your felling cut. If the cut starts to close; it is a good time to pull out the saw before it gets stuck and, at the same time, check to see if the tree is coming back in your direction. With those smaller trees I would usually just stop the saw as I approached the end of the cut and simply push the tree in the right direction - then finish cutting the flap of bark and wood.
Anyway; be safe and happy (safe) cutting!
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When I try to shimmy up I only end up hugging the tree!
Of course, if I cut it down, I could walk the tree; instead of shimming the tree!
