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Thanks for the correction. I really do not use this fuel. I have looked at it in the stores. I have about fifteen different pieces of equipment that has small engines. I also try to keep fifteen to twenty gallons of gas around at all times. I really have not had problems with my 10% ethanol.
I don't store gas if it isn't ethanol-free because it doesn't hold up well in storage. Typically the average recommendation is to store it for no more than 30 days before using it. It will begin breaking down.
I used 10% ethanol in my old chainsaw and my current riding mower for about two years. The fuel lines on my chainsaw dryrotted and became brittle. It also took out the primer bulb and the carburetor. I tossed it and my "new" one has only seen ethanol free. I can start it after 6 mos of no use on the first 2-3 tries and it runs great. My riding mower suffered some similar issues with the fuel filter from ethanol and developed hard starting issues so I have since switched to EF gas and haven't had any more trouble.
At the end of the day, ethanol gas is just harder on components. For the minimal cost savings, it doesn't make sense to use 10% ethanol (for me). Chainsaws are finicky by nature, so if I can avoid dealing with any additional issues on those I tend to steer clear when possible.
If you get a gas one, practice with your saw for a while until you are competent and can deal with kick back etc. Learn to stand and hold the saw properly, wear goggles and ear protection. Then go to a chain saw specialty store and get real chain, not a homeowners chain (which comes on all of the big box store chainsaws, and many. The difference is like magic. Homeowner chains eventually rub the wood away. Real chains cut through most wood like a hot knife through butter. We have a ton of ash in our yard and the homeowner chains take forever to cut through and after a short time, start burning the wood. The commercial chains can sometimes go for an hour if they do not get loose and cut well the whole time.
I don't store gas if it isn't ethanol-free because it doesn't hold up well in storage. Typically the average recommendation is to store it for no more than 30 days before using it. It will begin breaking down.
I used 10% ethanol in my old chainsaw and my current riding mower for about two years. The fuel lines on my chainsaw dryrotted and became brittle. It also took out the primer bulb and the carburetor. I tossed it and my "new" one has only seen ethanol free. I can start it after 6 mos of no use on the first 2-3 tries and it runs great. My riding mower suffered some similar issues with the fuel filter from ethanol and developed hard starting issues so I have since switched to EF gas and haven't had any more trouble.
At the end of the day, ethanol gas is just harder on components. For the minimal cost savings, it doesn't make sense to use 10% ethanol (for me). Chainsaws are finicky by nature, so if I can avoid dealing with any additional issues on those I tend to steer clear when possible.
Unfortunately, ethanol free is not something one can find in the SF Bay Area... unless you are willing to buy the quart cans which makes the price about $30 a gallon...
I don't store gas if it isn't ethanol-free because it doesn't hold up well in storage. Typically the average recommendation is to store it for no more than 30 days before using it. It will begin breaking down.
I used 10% ethanol in my old chainsaw and my current riding mower for about two years. The fuel lines on my chainsaw dryrotted and became brittle. It also took out the primer bulb and the carburetor. I tossed it and my "new" one has only seen ethanol free. I can start it after 6 mos of no use on the first 2-3 tries and it runs great. My riding mower suffered some similar issues with the fuel filter from ethanol and developed hard starting issues so I have since switched to EF gas and haven't had any more trouble.
At the end of the day, ethanol gas is just harder on components. For the minimal cost savings, it doesn't make sense to use 10% ethanol (for me). Chainsaws are finicky by nature, so if I can avoid dealing with any additional issues on those I tend to steer clear when possible.
Yes I have replaced many dry rotted, brittle chainsaw fuel lines over the years. Not so many primer bulbs; but the older equipment did not have primer bulbs. Most of the plastic fuel lines only last 20 or 30 years (at the very best). The weighted fuel filters on the ends of some will crack off in the fuel tanks or the lines will crack wherever there is a bend. They can be a real pain to replace on some saws.
I do not use any ethanol free fuel and I have equipment that starts long after the 30 day storage recommendation. One hedge trimmer I had not used since last year I just started with no problems just yesterday. The one thing I do is to leave all my tanks full when I store them. The very worse thing you can do is to put your equipment away with just a little fuel in the tank. Then that 'little fuel' will evaporate and leave sludge in the carburetor and tank. That was where I made money when I had a shop forty years ago.
As far as how quickly ethanol damages the lines/primer bulbs/carburetor diaphragms/ and O-rings: All of these parts will deteriorate eventually. Yes, ethanol will speed that process. But, depending on the equipment and use; you could pay far more for the fuel than you would for the extra replacement needed on the rubber and plastic parts. To me the jury is still out on whether ethanol 'free' is necessary. As a home owner I currently run three riding tractors, one push mower, three chainsaws, two leaf blowers, one trimmer, one edger, one tiller, one chipper and it has been years since I have worked on the fuel systems - other than adjusting the chainsaws from the vibration.
I do not use any ethanol free fuel and I have equipment that starts long after the 30 day storage recommendation
I have no issues using 10% ethanol fuel either. My current fuel supply was purchased this spring for one of the last uses of my snowblower. I'm still using it for my lawnmower to this day, so it's at least 6 months old now, and the mower still starts up first pull.
The fuel in my weedwhacker's tank is probably a year old as I've rarely used it. I used it maybe 2 weeks ago and it started up and ran fine.
I have no issues using 10% ethanol fuel either. My current fuel supply was purchased this spring for one of the last uses of my snowblower. I'm still using it for my lawnmower to this day, so it's at least 6 months old now, and the mower still starts up first pull.
The fuel in my weedwhacker's tank is probably a year old as I've rarely used it. I used it maybe 2 weeks ago and it started up and ran fine.
If you just Google: "How long can we store ethanol gas" you will get this result:
"E10 Gas has a shelf life of only 3 months. Ethanol alcohol fuel blends have a shelf life of only 90-100 days, under ideal environmental conditions. When exposed to water, E10 gas will contaminate and should be discarded."
If you change the wording and ask: "How long can we store gasoline" you get this result:
"About 3-5 months depending on where it's kept. If you add a fuel stabilizer it'll last 6-8 months. You only have to add a small amount, and it's sold in small bottles at convenience stores, auto stores, etc. Storage of gasoline in the tank recommends a maximum of one year."
Like the plumber with leaking pipes, the roofer with the leaking roof, the carpenter with damaged siding; as a once lawnmower mechanic I tend to totally abuse my own equipment. I guess it is because I do know how to repair it?
I have never worried about how long I store equipment with gas - unless it could be many years. I simply leave my equipment with full tanks when I am done with it for the season. Most of the equipment I have worked on over the years has had problems because people will leave just a little gas in the bottom of their tanks and it evaporates. My thinking on this subject is that the more gas you leave in a tank; the less area that fuel has to evaporate. If you leave your tank filled all the way up to just under the cap; then there is a very small area for evaporation.
One note about the storage of the ethanol blend: Ethanol quickly combines with water as that first Google search stated. I do store all of my equipment under cover and that might also make a difference. Many fuel tanks have small pinholes to let the tank 'breathe' as the fuel is used. So, if you let your equipment outside and exposed to the elements; that could be a problem.
I have one generator that can be stored for many years before it's next use. For that I drain out the fuel and then start it and let it run out of gas. I do not let any gas in the carburetor bowl. All homeowners can protect their equipment by simply running their equipment totally out of fuel on the last mowing or use for that season. So go totally fueled or run the equipment on a level surface until it runs out of fuel - depending on how long you are going to store your equipment.
Very good post fisheye. The only thing I do different is with my generator. Every three to four months I syphon out the gas, and use it in my other equipment that gets more run time. After I syphon I refill with fresh gas, and let it run a couple of minutes to flush the carb. I don't trust running it dry, as it only takes a little condensation to develop rust spots in the carb, and or bowl.
Here in Virginia non ethanol gas is available so I use that with fuel conditioner and be sure to use the fuel within a month or two and if not, I just dump it into of the cars and refill the gas can when needed.
I had a gummed up carburetor on one ocasdion and rather not have one again or have the ethanol eating rubber or vinyl parts.
Just to note that the use of E-10 is mandated in Virginia's more densely populated areas -- the DC suburbs in the north, plus Richmond-Petersburg and Hampton Roads further south.
What type of chain saw should i buy so my son can cut some trees? And how much power/volts? Thanking you in advance.....
How many trees has he cut down previously? I only buy Stihl or Husqvarna. I don't mind cuting branches or trimming or when I go camping to cut some firewood, but to cut whole trees I call my landscaping guy. He's got the tools, safety equipment and labor to do it.
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