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Old 02-25-2015, 05:50 AM
 
Location: Forests of Maine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NJBest View Post
I guess it depends on your climate. I've been driving around at below zero degrees and never have issues with ice reforming while driving.
While driving, when it is cold, if we shift the cabin air from the 'defrost' setting to 'side vent' and / 'floor vent' for more than a few minutes, our windshield will begin to re-freeze forming a layer of ice on it.
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Old 02-25-2015, 09:43 AM
 
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That is normal for almost any car I have been in when it is really cold out. Your body produces enough moisture to cause frost to form. Rain-X anti fog will help with this. ever wonder why defrost won't let you recirculate air, it is because it is supposed to also remove humidity from the inside of the vehicle. I prefer recirculate as the heater produces hotter air.

When I was driving a Uhaul this winter up to Alaska I had the heat on HIGH, Fan on High (low didn't matter either), and on Defrost and I could only see out of the bottom 1/3 of the windshield. It was so cold and we were going through ice fog. I had to run the windshield wipers and use the sprayers with -20F rated fluid in it to see. Apparently it was below -20F as the blue stuff was freezing to the windshield too. It wasn't a real fun mountain pass that time. It was when I learned about -40F/C rated fluid. (-40F = -40C) Even tricking the defroster to recirculate air only helped marginally.... Seeing how in the teens above the heater would bake us out of the truck...

I tried moving the switch from just defrost to defrost and floor and that was a mistake... It was only like that for a couple of hours.
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Old 02-25-2015, 10:40 AM
 
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If your windshield isn't iced over and the inside of the windshield isn't fogged up then you can start the car and drive off with no problem. Warming up the car with the defog or deice turned on in order to have clear forward vision is a legal requirement. If you have young children or elderly relative or someone with an illness then warming up the car is a health requirement. If your vehicle is very old (pre-electronic fuel injection/transmission control) then you should allow the car to warm-up for a little while before getting on the road.
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Old 02-25-2015, 10:54 PM
 
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This morning my windshield and windows were iced over. I used, an ice scraper, a spray bottle with deicer fluid in it and a paper towel. Took about 30 seconds to clear off the ice... Letting the truck warm up to get rid of the ice on the windows would have taken longer than I had to wait. When it is really cold it will never get warm enough.. The spray I use prevents ice/frost from reforming. It is windshield washer safe too...

I will re-read the Alaska Traffic laws, but I don't seem to remember reading one where I had to use the defroster to keep the windows clear. Yes, you have to have clear windows/windshield, but how you do it I thought was up to you.
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Old 02-26-2015, 09:02 PM
 
Location: I am right here.
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A week ago, we had freezing rain falling during the day. I was at work, so when it was time to go home, all our cars were coated with about 1/4 inch of solid ice. It looked much like that privacy glass found in bathroom windows. No amount of scraping would take it off. So we had a whole parking lot of people sitting in their cars, with engines running and defrost on high, for about 15-20 minutes while we waited for the ice to melt.

Most of this week has been below 0 F in the morning and around 1 for a high...remote start, baby!
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Old 02-27-2015, 08:58 PM
 
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Remote start is awesome....

I carry a can of deicer for those situations. I am not very patient when it is time to leave... Also because my diesel doesn't generate enough heat, even at high idle to really defrost anything. And the wife's battery car does better if the motor kicks on, but if it isn't below 15F it won't...
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Old 03-03-2015, 07:14 PM
 
Location: Louisville KY
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My carbed pick up had problems, my other two efi cars did not, yet my mothers car when I used it for a job, did not like to just drive away once started, it was so sluggish I had to take surface streets, I didn't know a modern efi car could be so cold intollerant.
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Old 03-03-2015, 07:56 PM
 
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You didn't say the year, make, model of the offending vehicle so no way to help you out there. Obvioulsy there is something wrong with the car, most likely a bad sensor telling the compter bad information or a clogged egr valve/throttle body/mass air sensor...

I had a Nissan 300ZX that had cold weather issues in SOUTH FLORIDA of all places. It didn't like to run until the motor warmed up. So I know what you mean there. It was EFI too.
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Old 03-06-2015, 04:03 AM
 
Location: Louisville KY
4,257 posts, read 3,892,643 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dakster View Post
You didn't say the year, make, model of the offending vehicle so no way to help you out there. Obvioulsy there is something wrong with the car, most likely a bad sensor telling the compter bad information or a clogged egr valve/throttle body/mass air sensor...

I had a Nissan 300ZX that had cold weather issues in SOUTH FLORIDA of all places. It didn't like to run until the motor warmed up. So I know what you mean there. It was EFI too.
You mean me, my two were a 91 s10 Blazer, and a 88Bronco. Her car a 05 Neon sxt.
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Old 03-06-2015, 01:51 PM
 
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No experience on Dodge cars - other than at work I drove 2011/2012 Chargers... Seemed like those had issues fleetwide. Always had some CEL on. I was disappointed as there are vehicles in that line-up we like.

Sounds to me like the 2005 had a bad sensor that telling the computer temperatures or air intake was different than what it was... Just a SWAG.

However, up here in AK, Dodge, Jeep, and Chryslers (and I guess now Fiat) vehicles have a bad rep for how well they handle extreme cold temps. Not the kind I get in Anchorage - but the kind you get in Fairbanks and points North. Not bashing a brand, I have had good and bad cars from a bunch of different brands....
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