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Old 08-28-2016, 05:05 PM
 
2 posts, read 3,109 times
Reputation: 10

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Hello Environmentalists,
I'm in Southern Pennsylvania, in an old Victorian with radiators. While I love the heat, I hate the idea of using fossil fuels.
My old house is shaded with old trees, so solar is out...
So far my solution has been keeping the thermostat low, installing a wood burning stove, converting my PECO to wind electricity, and using electric heaters in whatever room I'm in. It's been a way of keeping my oil costs down, but now my daughter is living with me, and she's not going to put up with a thermostat at 55!
I'm a History major, now a Therapist, so Engineers - please forgive my ignorance... But what can I do that's green? Can I use geothermal with oil to get the temperature at least up to the 50s before kicking in oil? Can I use electricity to fire the burner that heats the water that heats the radiator?
Please advise!

Thanks, Susan
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Old 08-28-2016, 06:14 PM
 
Location: Billings, MT
9,884 posts, read 10,972,072 times
Reputation: 14180
Just fire your existing boiler with bio-fuels, the more bio the better.
Doing so may require burner/furnace modifications or upgrades.
Bioheat is a currently available home heating fuel. google it.

Yes, it is possible to convert your existing system to electricity, but I don't recommend it, due to the ongoing expense.

It is also possible to install a wood-fired boiler or forced-air furnace outside the house, and connect it to the house heating system with insulated pipes or ducts, IF you have a nearly inexhaustible supply of wood. However, such a burner generates massive amounts of carbon dioxide, water vapor, and particulates, so it isn't really "green"!
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Old 08-28-2016, 08:36 PM
 
Location: Florida
7,774 posts, read 6,383,187 times
Reputation: 15782
I would not put up with the thermostat at 55 either. Our solution was to move to Florida back in 1972, no snow, no bitter cold and the trees are green all year around.
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Old 08-28-2016, 08:52 PM
 
Location: Bend Or.
1,126 posts, read 2,925,932 times
Reputation: 958
If its an old Victorian It is probably poorly insulated. Start there.
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Old 08-29-2016, 01:45 AM
 
Location: We_tside PNW (Columbia Gorge) / CO / SA TX / Thailand
34,705 posts, read 58,031,425 times
Reputation: 46172
Brew your own fuel, no furnace mods required.

~$100 in parts and you can make a bio- d processor

Appleseed 2.0 Biodiesel Processor Plans | The Appleseed Biodiesel Processor

Electricity production in PA is not green
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Old 10-29-2016, 12:24 PM
 
14 posts, read 13,783 times
Reputation: 41
Love those drafty Victorian houses! Mine was an Eastlake Victorian, built in 1871.. orginal wood work, floors, stairs, molding, can't make quality like this anymore.

Your best bet is to weatherize, insulate, look here Energy Efficiency | Department of Energy. I could write a 70 pages book on what to do. FOr us, weatherize and isulate gave us a 30% reduction is consumption, all stuff I did myself , with an occasional reluctant help from hubby ( I'm the engineer... )

1. Caulk, plug, seal, all building envelope openings. Water, cable, any foundation entrance, and through the building. Check all doors, windows, seals for tightness. Any good carpenter or handyman can do the work for you. DO you have storms everywhere, but at a minimum on the winter wind side of the house ? do all the windows and doors close seal well ? THe house will be more comfortable without raising thermostat if cold drafts are stopped. Curtains help too.

2. After you've weatherize everything, insulate : Attic, portion of the foundation above ground and under first floor. I love poly iso, it seals infiltration and insulates, in one step. Needs to be covered with gyprock in most counties . Have any old chimneys ? are they all sealed or does heat escape ? These should be sealed shut.

I could write the book for hours....nuf , good luck
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Old 10-30-2016, 04:20 PM
 
Location: Eugene, Oregon
11,119 posts, read 5,587,588 times
Reputation: 16596
You mentioned a wood stove-------are you not using that? Maybe get another one of those and use the dead limbs you could trim off all those trees for fuel. I have just 1/4th-acre, but it's covered with trees. I could supply 2 or 3 homes with enough wood for heating, from what I trim off them.

Here's what I cut off them in just two busy weeks of pruning:

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4002/5...70fb13ae_b.jpg
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Old 10-30-2016, 05:10 PM
 
4,314 posts, read 3,995,499 times
Reputation: 7797
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve McDonald View Post
You mentioned a wood stove-------are you not using that? Maybe get another one of those and use the dead limbs you could trim off all those trees for fuel. I have just 1/4th-acre, but it's covered with trees. I could supply 2 or 3 homes with enough wood for heating, from what I trim off them.

Here's what I cut off them in just two busy weeks of pruning:

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4002/5...70fb13ae_b.jpg


That small amount of limbs might heat her house for 2 for 3 days in a Pennsylvania winter.
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Old 10-30-2016, 06:20 PM
 
16,825 posts, read 17,728,104 times
Reputation: 20852
While this is a resurrected old thread, before you get everything all sealed up nice and tight get your furnace and entire system tuned up and checked for CO leaks. Then once that is done do all the sealing.
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Old 11-01-2016, 06:27 AM
 
17,342 posts, read 11,274,075 times
Reputation: 40962
Quote:
Originally Posted by isamom View Post
Love those drafty Victorian houses! Mine was an Eastlake Victorian, built in 1871.. orginal wood work, floors, stairs, molding, can't make quality like this anymore.

Your best bet is to weatherize, insulate, look here Energy Efficiency | Department of Energy. I could write a 70 pages book on what to do. FOr us, weatherize and isulate gave us a 30% reduction is consumption, all stuff I did myself , with an occasional reluctant help from hubby ( I'm the engineer... )

1. Caulk, plug, seal, all building envelope openings. Water, cable, any foundation entrance, and through the building. Check all doors, windows, seals for tightness. Any good carpenter or handyman can do the work for you. DO you have storms everywhere, but at a minimum on the winter wind side of the house ? do all the windows and doors close seal well ? THe house will be more comfortable without raising thermostat if cold drafts are stopped. Curtains help too.

2. After you've weatherize everything, insulate : Attic, portion of the foundation above ground and under first floor. I love poly iso, it seals infiltration and insulates, in one step. Needs to be covered with gyprock in most counties . Have any old chimneys ? are they all sealed or does heat escape ? These should be sealed shut.

I could write the book for hours....nuf , good luck
IMO, don't ruin beautiful old functional fireplaces by sealing them up. What a waste of beauty and functionality. Get the fireplaces to work and be as efficient as possible. Have them inspected. Add a blower or insert. Do what it takes to maintain the original aesthetics while making the old Victorian as energy efficient as possible.
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