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I lived in a development from the 70s that retained a lot of trees and planted a lot once they had the homes built. It actually turned out to be too much. We had to take a couple of beauties down. One because it was leaning over our bedroom and our neighbor's bedroom. Our neighbor had tried to get the previous owners to take it down, but they refused. But, this lady had already had one tree come crashing through her bedroom and didn't want a repeat. Neither did we and once a particularly violent storm took some other neighbor's trees down, we acted. The other tree we took down looked really pretty, but was quite sick and was leaning over the other neighbor's house. The neighbors to our left said they had cut down one tree that was between our properties about 25 years ago, but it grew back and ended up in our yard. Guess it figured it was safer in our yard. Anyway, the first one was so pretty and I really wish we could have somehow moved it, but we would have had to deconstruct our homes.
problem is when you clear woods a good percentage of large trees left die....then more die later from root compaction and damage caused by heavy machinery(these trees left become a hazzard). Best thing is to just replant with quick growing canopy trees and then lots of ornamentals and understory trees.
Best thing is to just replant with quick growing canopy trees and then lots of ornamentals and understory trees.
....unless you live in hurricane country like I do !
Here, you don't want quick growing canopy trees, they're usually short-lived and come down easy in a storm. The new development builders here usually install at least 1 Live Oak on each property. The Live Oak has a life span of hundreds of years and makes a gorgeous canopy, it's one of the most hurricane resistant trees we can plant here too......it's just a wait of forty years or so to get a good canopy going .
We need to ban clear cutting. I think it is so environmentally irresponsible and ugly to the landscape. I have seen many new houses in the poconos that were fit into the woods without much tree loss. I have also seen though massive plowings down to accomodate new subdivisions. I cannot stand the sight of these communities and wish the builders would think more nature green and not in the dollar green.
remember couple hundred years to a tree is a medium lived tree.....
there are plenty of quick growing canopy trees that live for 200-300 years.
I run a tree nursery. And live oaks dont grow well north of the carolinas....we have them here in maryland but they dont do like they do down south.
CHefkey thats great if it can be accomplished but alot of times those trees in neighborhoods die a slow death and take years to die....hopefully they dont fall on houses or people 3,4,5 even 10 years after construction...happens all the time. Or its an expensive burden to homeowner who have the trees trimmed , trimmed and then removed in an attempt to save the beast. I am forever getting calls from homeowner in newer neighborhoods that want a new tree right where that old tree was....when I tell them it needs to be stump ground(cha-ching) and they have to wait a few years(tic toc) before a tree can be placed there they are disapointed....nearly 10 years can be wasted watching a tree you dont want to die, slowly succumb and then more time waiting for a new one to grow...would have been better off clear cutting and replanting properly.
problem is properly almost never happens like it should. junk contractor grade stuff gets put in to save 100 bucks or less.
Housing developments and loss of habitat are an inevitable reality in this expanding country especially in the east. Do I like it, not at all....is it reality , yes.
remember couple hundred years to a tree is a medium lived tree.....
there are plenty of quick growing canopy trees that live for 200-300 years.
I run a tree nursery. And live oaks dont grow well north of the carolinas....we have them here in maryland but they dont do like they do down south.
Right, different zone. I'm in 9A which is perfect for Live Oak. Some older homes had Water Oaks and Laurel Oaks planted on them when they were developed 50 or 60 years ago, and though those oaks provided quick shade, most of those trees are gone or dying right now.
Big problem I see is developers put in junk trees in junk grades...cheapest they can do.....I forever see them turn down good large size, A grade trees to save 20-40 bucks a tree...silly.
On the other side of the coin, homeowner contiuously complain about the cost of a large A grade tree....
I think they think I oughta be giving them away (heck my daughter doesnt need to go to college) and when gas hits 4 a gallon , planting almost anything goes right out the window...unless its a 40 dollar tree root bound in a pot that only lives for 40 years max.
Tree business can be a rough business.
BTW we up here in 6b-7 dream of being able to grow live oak....
Big problem I see is developers put in junk trees in junk grades...cheapest they can do.....I forever see them turn down good large size, A grade trees to save 20-40 bucks a tree...silly.
On the other side of the coin, homeowner contiuously complain about the cost of a large A grade tree....
I think they think I oughta be giving them away (heck my daughter doesnt need to go to college) and when gas hits 4 a gallon , planting almost anything goes right out the window...unless its a 40 dollar tree root bound in a pot that only lives for 40 years max.
Tree business can be a rough business.
BTW we up here in 6b-7 dream of being able to grow live oak....
I like to buy them small and wait....and wait . Mainly because it's easier for me to position a very small tree.
How will I know what grade I'm buying? Some months back, I purchased quite a few trees from a Greenscape fundraiser event. They were all in 3-5 gallon pots and were grown by reputable nurseries, but would they be of a lower quality??
I purchased 2 River Birch, 2 Saucer Magnolia (Ann), 1 Royal Star Magnolia, 1 Flame maple, and one Holly simply marked "Holly"......all were $10 a piece.
Lately I've been buying citrus, and I can see a difference in quality between the citrus nurseries and the Big Box store .
most small trees are grown in only one grade for the public...large balled and burlap landscape size trees may be graded (A grade, and park grade). Actually different terms may be used for the lesser grade.
main thing with potted trees is to pull the pot off and check the roots to make sure they arent knotted or circled badly. But for 10 bucks hard to go wrong really.
River birch (betula nigra) are nice trees (dura-heat variety) being the best choice for hot climates....river birch are tough.
Saucer magnolia and Ann are two different trees....Saucer gets much bigger (up here in 7 the flowers are sometimes nipped by late frosts).
Ann Magnolia is from a line called "the little girl series" of magnolias, most of which only get 10-12 ft tall. I grow Ann and Betty, I believe there are 8 varieties of little girls. these mags are nice because they flower later and frost isnt a factor.
Star mags are nice but up here usally get nipped by frost a little more than the saucers. Lovely tree tho.
Flame (i assume you mean the variety of red maple)...cant go wrong there.
Hard to say with the holly, I would think one marked just holly would be an American holly (Ilex Opeca) I have a 25 foot one in the front yard, beautiful.
Too far north to speak about citrus.
I grow about 8 different magnolias, Yellow Magnolia x Sunburst and x Elisabeth being my favorite magnolias(20-30 ft). The little girls run a close second. Sweetbay Magnolia is my favorite native mag.
If your young and like to grow things small trees may be right up your alley, if ya want instant impact cant beat a large balled and burlap plant. I always tell folks , we plant trees for the next generation...if we get some enjoyment and satisfaction in the mean time all the better. The nursery trade tends to grow whats easiest and fastest for them to grow not always what may be best. Thats where ya get things like Leyland cypress and bradford pear (junk IMHO).
Enjoy your trees. if I can be of any information feel free to message me. well off to bed I have 7 willow oaks to deliver and plant tomorrow.
most small trees are grown in only one grade for the public...large balled and burlap landscape size trees may be graded (A grade, and park grade). Actually different terms may be used for the lesser grade.
main thing with potted trees is to pull the pot off and check the roots to make sure they arent knotted or circled badly. But for 10 bucks hard to go wrong really.
River birch (betula nigra) are nice trees (dura-heat variety) being the best choice for hot climates....river birch are tough.
Saucer magnolia and Ann are two different trees....Saucer gets much bigger (up here in 7 the flowers are sometimes nipped by late frosts).
Ann Magnolia is from a line called "the little girl series" of magnolias, most of which only get 10-12 ft tall. I grow Ann and Betty, I believe there are 8 varieties of little girls. these mags are nice because they flower later and frost isnt a factor.
Star mags are nice but up here usally get nipped by frost a little more than the saucers. Lovely tree tho.
Flame (i assume you mean the variety of red maple)...cant go wrong there.
Hard to say with the holly, I would think one marked just holly would be an American holly (Ilex Opeca) I have a 25 foot one in the front yard, beautiful.
Too far north to speak about citrus.
I grow about 8 different magnolias, Yellow Magnolia x Sunburst and x Elisabeth being my favorite magnolias(20-30 ft). The little girls run a close second.
At $10, the only reason I didn't buy more was because I couldn't fit anymore in my Honda!
Thanks for the clear-up on Ann.......I think she's definitely Ann - a nice rosy-purple big bloom .
The Star is under a big oak (big oak!), so I think that will help to control the flowering and also give some protection....I think it will fare okay....we'll see.
I am in love with the River Birch and wish I could plant more! They do get big though, so I have to have some restraint .
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. Mainly because it's easier for me to position a very small tree.
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