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Please explain the CARS program. I drive a 2004 Suburban, a gas hog and big, and I would like to get a car with better mileage, but not too tiny, I have 4 children. Can you explain to me about the CARS program and what I might end up paying for a new Cobalt or G5 with a trade-in on my car?
-Your trade-in must get 18 MPG or less COMBINED miles per gallon. (Look it up even if you think that knocks you out... my car gets 22 MPG regularly, but officially my 'combined' MPG was only 17)
-Your trade-in can not be 25 years old, or older (antique)
-Your trade-in MUST be scrapped. (So you only get the scrap value of your vehicle, not the full trade-in value)
-The trade-in must have been continually insured for the previous year. (So no going to a junk yard)
The goal of this is to get the vehicles which get poor gas mileage off the road while also increaseing vehicle sales. Since you have a newer vehicle, your scrap value should be more than an old clunker, since the parts should be worth more... but you're not going to get nearly as much for it. (Though, are Suburbans getting much at trade-in anyways?)
Now for your new car purchase:
-If the new car gets 5-10 MPG better than your trade-in, you get $3500 off
-If the new car gets 10+ MPG better, you get $4500 off
Since your car must get 18 MPG combined or under to qualify, that means that you're sure to get $4500 off any car that gets a combined 28 MPG or better. And this is for ANY vehicle under MSRP $45,000. It can be GM, Ford, Toyota, Kia, or whatever.
The deadline for this program is November, 2009, or until the funds run out. (So if a ton of people take advantage of this, the money may run out before the deadline)
I mentioned the 2009 Cobalt/G5 since they get pretty good gas mileage (EPA rated 37 mpg highway), they are fairly cheap, AND they have $2500 in rebates right now.
Say you get $1500 for your trade-in, plus $2500 in rebates, plus $4500 CARS program, then you're looking at $8,500 off your new car. You should be able to find a Cobaly/G5 for $14,000 - $15,000. (Maybe less if you get a manual)
So really, you end up paying around $5500 - $6500 depending the trade-in price you get, and the car options you choose.
Location: Visitation between Wal-Mart & Home Depot
8,309 posts, read 38,766,834 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Omaha Rocks
Yeah, but in all fairness, any gas guzzling SUV is going to kill you in a 30 mph, head-on collision with a Semi.
So where do we draw the line?
It's certainly true that you can die in many different and interesting ways when you put the key into the ignition and putter off into the wild, blue yonder regardless of the steed that carries you, but I think the practical line for driver safety (at least to me) is probably at mid-size sedan. I would have no problem getting into a Prius, either. All those batteries weigh the car down quite a bit and inertia comes back into your favor.
I'm just a little bearish on those featherweights and their tiny cages ability to discourage the cranio-steel interface. I want fuel-efficient, but I'm not crazy about trading gas for safety.
It's certainly true that you can die in many different and interesting ways when you put the key into the ignition and putter off into the wild, blue yonder regardless of the steed that carries you, but I think the practical line for driver safety (at least to me) is probably at mid-size sedan. I would have no problem getting into a Prius, either. All those batteries weigh the car down quite a bit and inertia comes back into your favor.
I'm just a little bearish on those featherweights and their tiny cages ability to discourage the cranio-steel interface. I want fuel-efficient, but I'm not crazy about trading gas for safety.
Here's a kicker for ya...
Several years ago, a lady I know was driving her PT Cruiser down the Interstate during one of those "wet slushy snow" days. You know the type.
She lost control, skidded off the road, through the median, and crashed nearly head-on into a big Suburban traveling the other direction.
She walked away from the accident with a few minor bumps and bruises, but it killed the driver of the Suburban.
Several years ago, a lady I know was driving her PT Cruiser down the Interstate during one of those "wet slushy snow" days. You know the type.
She lost control, skidded off the road, through the median, and crashed nearly head-on into a big Suburban traveling the other direction.
She walked away from the accident with a few minor bumps and bruises, but it killed the driver of the Suburban.
Go figure.
It really does depend on the design of the vehicle. Bigger does not necessarily mean safer, unless we're talking about a tractor trailer hitting a VW Beetle, then there's little question.
Location: Visitation between Wal-Mart & Home Depot
8,309 posts, read 38,766,834 times
Reputation: 7185
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lamplight
It really does depend on the design of the vehicle. Bigger does not necessarily mean safer, unless we're talking about a tractor trailer hitting a VW Beetle, then there's little question.
Another major factor in surviveability is what kind of hit you take and what happens after the car goes out of control. Rolling is bad. Really bad. Vehicle rollovers happen in something like 3% of all accidents but account for about 1/3 of the fatalities. That's a rub on SUV's, they tend to be more rollover prone. Newer models have addressed this with some success, but ante-2000 models tend to be pretty unstable.
A hit from 11 o'clock to 1 o'clock is really bad and results in the most rapid deceleration, a side impact localized to the driver's or a passenger's seat is really, really bad (for anyone in that seat) and extremely difficult to defend against, regardless of make or model.
Even so, after watching the head-on collision film of the smart car matched against a Toyota Camry, I wouldn't feel very smart getting behind the wheel of one.
Another major factor in surviveability is what kind of hit you take and what happens after the car goes out of control. Rolling is bad. Really bad. Vehicle rollovers happen in something like 3% of all accidents but account for about 1/3 of the fatalities. That's a rub on SUV's, they tend to be more rollover prone. Newer models have addressed this with some success, but ante-2000 models tend to be pretty unstable.
A hit from 11 o'clock to 1 o'clock is really bad and results in the most rapid deceleration, a side impact localized to the driver's or a passenger's seat is really, really bad (for anyone in that seat) and extremely difficult to defend against, regardless of make or model.
Even so, after watching the head-on collision film of the smart car matched against a Toyota Camry, I wouldn't feel very smart getting behind the wheel of one.
I would think a well designed, lightweight vehicle would also survive a rollover better. I used to own a 1989 Honda CRX and I rolled it off the interstate going 75mph. My only injuries were some cuts on my hand from glass from when I crawled out of my car that had landed upside down. And actually, the only glass that had broken was the windshield. Unfortunately the car was most definitely totalled.
I would think a well designed, lightweight vehicle would also survive a rollover better. I used to own a 1989 Honda CRX and I rolled it off the interstate going 75mph. My only injuries were some cuts on my hand from glass from when I crawled out of my car that had landed upside down. And actually, the only glass that had broken was the windshield. Unfortunately the car was most definitely totalled.
There's so much of surviving an accident that's a pure crap shoot. It's great that you survived your accident, but had there been a steel post in the wrong place, you wouldn't have. And who's to know?
On the other hand, pure physics play into our chances of having and surviving an accident.
It goes without saying that a 4x4 or SUV with a 6" lift kit is going to be more apt to roll over than a vehicle that sits low to the ground - especially if that SUV has a short or narrow wheel base. There's no real way around it.
Also, it goes without saying that if you are in a head-on collision, your chances of surviving are better if you're in a big vehicle. It doesn't always work that way, but the percentages are certainly in your favor.
Really though, it comes down to what chances we're willing to take. I ride a motorcycle. It's undeniable that there is a certain amount of added risk involved. On the other hand, I lower that risk by being careful. My risk is also lowered because I've been riding for about 30 years, and am very experience. I'm willing to take the risk, but I have no intentions of being stupid about it.
The most efficient: live closer to work.
Or, live close enough to walk/bike/take public transit.
That's true. I quit a job that paid quite nicely but was 31 miles from home for a job that paid less that was only 3-4 miles away so I could bike to work. Considering I drove a Dodge Ram at the time, I wound up saving over $3000 a year just on gas. When I sold the Ram I was also saving on all the little things involved in owning a car that add up so quickly, like oil changes, repairs, tags and registration, etc. So with the new job I found I actually had more money.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Omaha Rocks
There's so much of surviving an accident that's a pure crap shoot. It's great that you survived your accident, but had there been a steel post in the wrong place, you wouldn't have. And who's to know?
Oh definitely. I was also fortunate enough to slide and roll OFF the interstate into some brush. Rolling on pavement probably would have been considerably worse. And hitting just about anything head on at interstate speeds rarely ends well at all, regardless of the vehicle.
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