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I drove from the upper road to Hilo a few months ago and was very impressed with the change from the last time I drove it (several years ago). I didn't find the westernmost section to be too terrible and was thrilled by the newer section. However, I kind of enjoy the roller-coaster sections, personally. (I tend to be a cautious driver though, and don't speed or drive "blind". Also, I was driving in broad daylight on a sunny day. Different conditions would have given a very different experience)
I rented from Budget and specifically asked about Saddle Road - they told me there was no longer any restriction.
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