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I have a 1959 Motorola console stereo, 17 tube, would love to have it restored, I'm sure the components weren't meant to last 50 plus years. Don't know where I can have this done...
1. dose it work?, if so, whats wrong with it
2. if it hasnt been plugged in in a very long time -dont do it! it will need a variac transformer power up
The only thing I haven't figured out is how to efficiently support the low end frequency response.. The khorns only go down to about 35Hz.
I need reasonable size, so a VLF bass horn is not really in the picture.
Try a DIY Tom Danley style tapped horn. A couple of pals use them with DIY horn systems and they track the dynamics of the horns. They are very powerful and very clean. Horns in other words. They are big but not as big as a regular basshorn that goes as deep. There's much information about them on the web.
The structure by the window that looks like a bench is my pal's tapped horn. It uses a 12" driver from Parts Express specifically meant for tapped horn use.
Thanks.... That looks like a good subwoofer. I will research it.
I have looked at a few other options, but I haven't done this in years. Another option is to build one. The amps are easy from partsexpress.com
Going with a much larger cabinet (with the appropriate drivers), and then potentially running an active high-pass filter, tuned with an intentional peak below the natural low-end rollof the the system, to boost low-end response. It's been 25 years since I played with this stuff, but I recall that distortion levels go up significantly when trying to drive the system like this, as cone motion becomes very significant. Time to do a lot of reading
Try a DIY Tom Danley style tapped horn. A couple of pals use them with DIY horn systems and they track the dynamics of the horns. They are very powerful and very clean. Horns in other words. They are big but not as big as a regular basshorn that goes as deep. There's much information about them on the web.
The structure by the window that looks like a bench is my pal's tapped horn. It uses a 12" driver from Parts Express specifically meant for tapped horn use.
It's been 25 years since I played with this stuff, but I recall that distortion levels go up significantly when trying to drive the system like this, as cone motion becomes very significant. Time to do a lot of reading
High distortion levels in long stroking subwoofers are arguably less important than they would be in regualar woofers since the subwoofer is usually crossed in the 50-100hz range and distortion from it can't affect the upper bass and midrange, as can happen with a normal woofer that's crossed much higher and IS called upon to reproduce upper bass and midrange.
In my experience the biggest problem with using direct radiating, long stroking subs with horns is the ability of such systems to track the dynamics of the horns, that they keep up. If the subs can't track the mains then as volume grows louder the tonal balance will change when the sub compresses and the mains don't.
I've found that large subs using direct radiators with a great deal of cone area will track horn mains; I used 4 JBL 15s as subs (2 JBL Pro 4648 bassbins) with an Altec A7-500 VOT system. You're back to pretty big boxes but still smaller than a bass horn going as deep. The system shown measured flat to 25hz (with 6db boost at 30hz), kept up with the Altecs and at high levels you could hardly see the cones move.
It's been 25 years since I played with this stuff, but I recall that distortion levels go up significantly when trying to drive the system like this, as cone motion becomes very significant. Time to do a lot of reading
High distortion levels in long stroking subwoofers are arguably less important than they would be in regular woofers since the subwoofer is usually crossed in the 50-100hz range and distortion from it can't affect the upper bass and midrange, as can happen with a normal woofer that's crossed much higher and IS called upon to reproduce upper bass and midrange.
In my experience the biggest problem with using direct radiating, long stroking subs with horns is the ability of such systems to track the dynamics of the horns, that they keep up. If the subs can't track the mains then as volume grows louder the tonal balance will change when the sub compresses and the mains don't.
I've found that large subs using direct radiators with a great deal of cone area will track horn mains; I used 4 JBL 15s as subs (2 JBL Pro 4648 bassbins) with an Altec A5 VOT system. You're back to pretty big boxes but still smaller than a bass horn going as deep. The system shown measured flat to 25hz (with 6db boost at 30hz), kept up with the Altecs and at high levels you could hardly see the cones move.
Seriously. Nowadays, a lot of folks who are fed up with their antics are going to Tapeheads.Net.
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thanks for the heads up, intresting site.
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