Painting Technique (counter, paint, ceiling, staircase)

[mrsengle]

Hello everyone.....I'm looking for some help on interior painting.

I need some help with technique. Aside from using painter's tape, is there any method I can use to paint a straight line along the perimeters of a wall? I've used the tape along the ceiling and baseboards, but the tape lets a little paint 'leak' through the edges. I carefully sealed the tape before painting but still encountered the problem. It looks sloppy. I've also used the paint pads with the little wheels - the problem with those is that the paint inevitably winds up on the wheels, and that makes a bigger mess than the tape.

Thanks in advance!

[mbuszu]

Originally Posted by mrsengle

Hello everyone.....I'm looking for some help on interior painting.
I need some help with technique. Aside from using painter's tape, is there any method I can use to paint a straight line along the perimeters of a wall? I've used the tape along the ceiling and baseboards, but the tape lets a little paint 'leak' through the edges. I carefully sealed the tape before painting but still encountered the problem. It looks sloppy. I've also used the paint pads with the little wheels - the problem with those is that the paint inevitably winds up on the wheels, and that makes a bigger mess than the tape.

Along baseboards and all wood trim (doors & windows too), the blue tape is the way to go. You need to pay attention to it's edges when applying the tape, but it should work without leakage unless the wood surface is rough. If the wood surface is rough, then I would say you may need to use the method described below for all wood trim.

Now for the ceiling... that is definitely a potential tough spot. The only solution I have found is to literally hand brush from the very edge (holding the brush vertically with bristles pointed up) to about 3-5 inches down. I wet the brush trip pretty good with paint, stick the tip into the corner and then pull down the paint. After I have done a wall like this then I go back with the paint roller and get as close to the ceiling as possible (usually about 2 inches away) with vertical swipes while I do the rest of the wall. In any close-woodwork situation, this is what I found works best. The roller will get rid of most brush-stroke evidence, but there isn't a good substitute for the brush at the very edge of the ceiling.

[Cosmic]

What you want is what as known as Cutting-In for the painting trade. That is the getting the trim line of paint exactly where it is supposed to be.

The pros rarely use any form of tape. It adds expense and takes too much time. They just about all use some type of brush or pad. My old partner was a super fast cut in guy. Just about all folks can do it in the business, speed is what you want with great accuracy.

Tricks of the trade:

It works best with an older brush that has been well used. They get worn into particular shapes. You are trying to get a small wave of paint to move along ahead of the brush, there are no brush marks left. Not one way to do it, various folks have different techniques. I had a collection of brushes saved for the purpose.


I like a one inch brush like this well worn, two inch work but the one inch is more accurate. Those bristles will be about half that long on a well worn brush. Nice stubby handle is best.





Brushes like this also work well in some areas. I have a bunch of sizes. Again around one inch, a tad worn works best for me.




Something like a striping brush works well. Bon Tool used to sell them in larger sizes. They are expensive but can be super fast and accurate. They are sort of round and have that sword shape.





You just need the right tools and a bit of practice. I also like those bristle pads, (no wheels) about 3 x 4 inches. Works well but you can only use the pad a couple of times. If the edges get ragged they are finished. Most folks use the brush and skill. A good cut in man will be done by the time you have a bit of that tape applied. Pads do not work all that well with oil based paints.

If there is any trick, don't use a new brush for trim cut in. Hold only a small pot of paint, use little weight in the pot, I like a 4 inch or so soup can for the paint bucket, fits easy in one hand. I have some super worn brushes that work the best. If I use any tape at all it is the one with the built in paper shield, only 1/4" or so gummed taping edge. Use that most on baseboards, can do it with newpaper but try to get the paper shield tape on sale cheap and buy a bunch.

With the right eye you can get well worn brushes at yard sales for just about nothing. Good brush care is critical.

[jhlcomp]

Cosmic - nice job!!! I paint a lot and have found the pads with the wheels to do the job perfectly for me. The trick is not to get too much paint on the pad and use a damp cloth to wipe off the residue on and around the wheels.

Happy painting!!

[rubytue]

I don't use tape, instead I cut in with a sash brush like cosmic described. Tape just slows me down for ceilings. I do use it for trim work and to paint lines. Recently, I've discovered the wheeled pads. You have to be careful to just bearly touch the pad to the paint. You can't go dipping it in. While I prefer a sash brush, the wheeled pads are nice for certain applications - like the top of a staircase. You can attach them to an extention pole and its a lot easier than getting out scaffolding.

[Cosmic]

There is a small paint box affair with a big sort of wide toothed plastic wheel in it for applying paint to those pads. The wheel rotates as you drag the pad over it. Puts the right amount on the pad evenly. I got one, works good.

A tad smaller than half the size of a typical roller tray, a maybe twice or so as high. Mine is out of plastic.

[mrsengle]

Hey guys, thanks a bunch for the advice! Guess I better get on the gun and learn some mad skills

[Ohiogirl81]

My experience with cutting in is that the smaller the brush, the lesser opportunity for mistakes. Buy a high-quality brush, too. Those cheapo things shed hair like a cat!