Removing a horrid pointy plaster ceiling... (paint, tiles, sand, ceilings)
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I've seen people remove a popcorn ceiling pretty easily on TV. I think you just spray it with water, then run a putty knife under it. Will the same method work on those pointy plop, plop ceilings which probably have a few coats of paint on them also?
I plan to start with an 11x11' room which has a trey ceiling. I cannot do the whole house, but since I'm doing over this diningroom, I want to try it.
I have the same dilemma. Pointy "plop-plop" ceiling from the 70's probably containing lead...
Awful! Scraping it will probably take forever. What about sanding?? Then covering with ceiling tiles or something like that?? Make sure you wear a mask. I am not joking about the lead...
No, this house was built in 1986, so no lead. I hope we don't have to sand..that would be a mess. I will get a smooth ceiling in there, one way or another.
I'm hoping someone who has done it will tell me it will come off just like a popcorn ceiling.
'86 ... it's not plaster. The biggest aspect is going to be getting the water behind the paint ... you'll prolly need to scrape part of it off first, respray it with water (making sure it does soak in), and then repeat.
You will most likely have be some patching to do afterwards, but it shouldn't be bad.
Unless you're going to spray back some orange peel or knockdown texture afterwards, you'll want to sand it until smooth again.
I am not sure what kind of plaster it is ( picture would be helpful), and most sites recommend to wet it and scrap. Here is some info: Pointy Plaster Ceiling Removal *with pic* - TOH Discussions
Someone said that:
The best way to do it is to apply a think layer of mud with a 10 or 12 inch knife, and fill out the entire ceiling. Then repeat this process 2 more times, and you should be happy. Sanding is not going to remove it, and scraping it off with a chisel will only make you go back and touch up the ceiling anyways.
My other solution, screw in some 1/4" or 1/2" drywall in the ceiling and refinish smooth.
The easiest, fastest, most efficient way to remove "stippled ceiling" (especially if it's been painted)- tear it out and install new 1/2" drywall.
Any other way involves too much physical labor, mess, or both.
The easiest, fastest, most efficient way to remove "stippled ceiling" (especially if it's been painted)- tear it out and install new 1/2" drywall.
Any other way involves too much physical labor, mess, or both.
I don't know about the mess part ... demo work is always messy.
Easy is also relative ... if you have the muscle and the tools, sure. Handling a sheet of 4x8 isn't for everyone, nor is lifting it up to ceiling height without a T or hoist ($$). And after all that, there's still the finishing aspect.
FWIW, my house came with popcorn ceiling too. The bedrooms and hall were scrapped; the family room is going to get new sheetrock. The living room ... the hoist I picked up doesn't go up to 20', and it's awful there with the lumpy tape joints and all.
You can also just overlay the ceiling with firring strips screwed through the existing ceiling into the joists, then 1/4 inch drywall over the top of the strips. You'll lose a couple of inches of ceiling height, but it's a lot less work than trying to remove the texture.
I've seen it done where you prime the existing ceiling, then mud it out until its flat. Which is a very time consuming process, especially to get it nice and smooth so that no shadows show when you have your lights on. Demo is messy, but for the best results if you should tear down the existing and put up 5/8. no 1/2. 5/8 = fire code. But new rock will make a huge difference.
Easy is also relative ... if you have the muscle and the tools, sure. Handling a sheet of 4x8 isn't for everyone, nor is lifting it up to ceiling height without a T or hoist ($$). And after all that, there's still the finishing aspect.
I was speaking strictly from the point of view- easiest, fastest. Two guys could tear-out, rehang, and finish an 11X11 room in a matter of hours. It would be ready for paint the next day. And you'd never use 4X8 sheets for that- it would take (3) 4X12's.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbaker0217
... but for the best results if you should tear down the existing and put up 5/8. no 1/2. 5/8 = fire code. But new rock will make a huge difference.
For interior spaces minimal code requirement is 1/2".
5/8" does not equal "fire code". It equals higher fire rating.
5/8"(type X) equals "fire code".
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