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Old 11-09-2010, 04:50 AM
 
Location: Suffolk County, NY
874 posts, read 2,875,214 times
Reputation: 474

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First of all; the 1993 Accord uses an OBD1 port found behind the right (passenger) side kick panel. To find the codes you would have to jump the wires in the connector, turn the key to the on position without cranking it and then count the amount of times the indicators on the dash flash. The "Check engine" light will flash the codes from the ECU and the "D" indicator for the transmission will flash any transmission codes. We also have to remember that there are many things that can be wrong with this car that will not even kick up codes.
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Old 11-09-2010, 05:14 AM
 
Location: Suffolk County, NY
874 posts, read 2,875,214 times
Reputation: 474
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Bagu View Post
We all have our VICES and do not hesitate to spend the money accordingly.

Seven yrs old and things need to be replaced BEFORE they break down on the road somewhere. Best rule of thumb is to keep a record of what was replaced as to mileage/date as a reference point to narrow down a problem.

A car runs on Gas and Electricity...two main points.

A simple tuneup before really needed (no sense in squeezing a extra 735.5 more miles before having it done) is a good idea. That would be like running a car tire down to the steel belt before buying a new set.

Simple low cost items over time will prevent major expenses down the road.

I'm a retired mechanic and last week crossed the border into SD and within two miles my clutch shaft in the trans broke leaving me stranded at a gas station. This particular part was okay a few months ago on inspection but still things can and will break when least expected. I sat for six hrs waiting for my next door neighbor to tow me back home. Traffic and border crossing times can be a bear.

So you see things can happen when least expected. My car is an old model and not everyone has the knowledge to work on them, besides I have a custom TURBO engine and they do not have the total smarts needed.

A potential VW shop would have been a crap shoot (based upon the various cars sitting in their lot) so I oppted to return home. 2-3 days there and staying at a Motel...no thanks.

Long story for naught here I suppose...just an inkling on what can happen when the electrical or gas part is not replaced until it dies a few times when driving.

My dad was a mechanic of 40 yrs and he always said that it was a good rule of thumb to replace some parts while they are still working...better now in the shop then down on some desolate hwy.

Hope my story has some people thinking a little.

Steve
I try not to be extremely critical of other people's posts but I just could not help myself with this one. First of all, engines need fuel, spark AND air in order to run. Those are the first three things any mechanic will check when confronted with a stalling or cranking but not starting issue.

I do a LOT of side work on vehicles and know many other mechanics as well as a few that work in mechanic shops and one that actually owns a shop. I have NEVER heard an actual mechanic say that changing parts for no particular reason is a good idea. I am not, of course, referring to regularly scheduled, factory recommended maintenance parts such as transmission filters, transmission fluid, oil, oil filters, struts, shocks, plugs, wires, etc.

The post I quoted makes it sound as though he should have changed his clutch shaft in the transmission before he took his ride. For that matter, you should just rebuild your engine every six months just to make sure nothing breaks. As a matter of fact, everyone reading this should go out and buy a new alternator and starter due to the fact that the one you have may eventually break.

Also, I do not see how needing a shaft changed in your transmission has anything to do with a "custom" turbo engine. The person writing the post stated that most mechanics do not have the smarts needed to work on his "custom" turbo engine. If all he needs a shaft changed in the transmission there would be no reason for a mechanic to do anything to his engine. I also do not understand what extra "smarts" would be needed to work on his "custom" turbo as compared to ANY other turbo engine that mechanics work on.
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Old 11-09-2010, 08:19 AM
 
Location: So. of Rosarito, Baja, Mexico
6,987 posts, read 21,927,978 times
Reputation: 7007
Ok...we have a difference of opinion which is just fine with me.

I am a VW mechanic of 28 yrs and have rebuilt engines stock and performance for Drag racing etc. The car is a 66 Bug with a custom Turbo engine. Two mechanics I spoke with did not want to work on the car even if I was to help/direct them.

I had the engine out to change the pressure plate/clutch a short while back. The t/o clutch shaft was just fine on inspection...but they can break.

Experience on side work is okay (we all have started somewhere) but side work does not make a person a PRO when it comes down to making your living each day and the rep your work gives you.

The words of changing parts before they break was an expression mean that a person should not wait until a tire is bald before replacing it.

Many times I have told a customer of a pending repair in the near future whether it be by me or some other shop. Tell tale signs are visible and invisible. See or hear.

My post was not meant as a burn "smarts" but in respect to some who are just knowledged in stock work and are not familiar or desire to work with performance engines etc. Everyone is different. These two guys I spoke with were unusual.

Anyway my engine has to be pulled in order to repair the clutch...which I did already. Have to cross the border this AM for a new part as it is not available here. I retained many parts when retireing from business but used the last shaft on a Ghia I had.

A normal three hr job for me in the past is now going to be a three day job. Heck I'm 79 yrs old and do have a couple medical problems/handicaps to hinder me.
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Old 11-09-2010, 06:39 PM
 
Location: Suffolk County, NY
874 posts, read 2,875,214 times
Reputation: 474
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Bagu View Post
Ok...we have a difference of opinion which is just fine with me.

I am a VW mechanic of 28 yrs and have rebuilt engines stock and performance for Drag racing etc. The car is a 66 Bug with a custom Turbo engine. Two mechanics I spoke with did not want to work on the car even if I was to help/direct them.

I had the engine out to change the pressure plate/clutch a short while back. The t/o clutch shaft was just fine on inspection...but they can break.

Experience on side work is okay (we all have started somewhere) but side work does not make a person a PRO when it comes down to making your living each day and the rep your work gives you.

The words of changing parts before they break was an expression mean that a person should not wait until a tire is bald before replacing it.

Many times I have told a customer of a pending repair in the near future whether it be by me or some other shop. Tell tale signs are visible and invisible. See or hear.

My post was not meant as a burn "smarts" but in respect to some who are just knowledged in stock work and are not familiar or desire to work with performance engines etc. Everyone is different. These two guys I spoke with were unusual.

Anyway my engine has to be pulled in order to repair the clutch...which I did already. Have to cross the border this AM for a new part as it is not available here. I retained many parts when retireing from business but used the last shaft on a Ghia I had.

A normal three hr job for me in the past is now going to be a three day job. Heck I'm 79 yrs old and do have a couple medical problems/handicaps to hinder me.
Okay. First of all; I happen to have worked for an actual shop for four years before taking on a different profession. While keeping the different profession, I still enjoyed working on my own cars as a hobby. I had a 1985 Cutlass in which myself and a friend put a Pontiac 400 from a 1969 GTO in. We rebuilt the engine together (we did everything but the machine work). I also redid the entire suspension with correct springs for the big block, polyurethane bushings, boxed rear control arms, a Cheetah shifter, Auto Meter gauges and many other modifications.

I currently own a 1968 Chrysler Newport with a big block 383 on which I installed Edelbrock aluminum heads, an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, a Speed Demon carb., MSD 6AL box with an MSD coil and MSD billet distributor, TTI headers, a pretty radical Purple Cam, etc. All of the body work is complete and I am currently getting the money together for supplies to paint it.

One of the side jobs I have is a neighbor's 1949 F1 pick up truck. I already completely disassembled the nose and pulled the 351 engine someone else had installed out of it. The engine cross member was a mess and the engine did not sit correctly in the car so I did a bit of measuring and test fitting and welded in a tubular engine cross member with my Lincoln mig welder. I also began welding in plates to the frame in order to box the frame in to stiffen it up. I have already disassembled and painted the front axle, springs, spring mounts, shock mounts, brake cable mounts, etc. I will be assembling this within the next few weeks along with a front disc brake conversion.

I am now retired on disability from my other profession and have been since 2006. I have been doing nothing but working on cars since. Today I repaired a ball joint and sway bar bushings on a 1997 Grand Marquis. In the next few days I will begin changing a catalytic converter on a 2002 Audi A4 Quattro with a 3.0 six cylinder engine. This entails removing the drive shafts, engine cross member, transmission cross member as well as numerous other parts since the only way to get at the catalytic converters is to lower the sub frame. I say this only to show that a mechanic who does side work nearly each day can be an actual mechanic. It is not as though all I do is brakes and tune ups. And yes, if I want to continue doing side work I do have to be professional and keep a good reputation.

With that all being said I will take back one thing I said in my post prior to this one. I do agree that there probably are a number of mechanics who would not want to work on a 1966 Volkswagen engine with a turbo mated to it. There are probably a number of mechanics who would not want to work on that engine without the turbo on it. I am sure there are a number of mechanics who have never worked on them before.
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Old 11-09-2010, 07:52 PM
 
Location: Eastern Washington
17,216 posts, read 57,072,247 times
Reputation: 18579
Quote:
Originally Posted by Egobop View Post
Okay. First of all; I happen to have worked for an actual shop for four years before taking on a different profession. While keeping the different profession, I still enjoyed working on my own cars as a hobby. I had a 1985 Cutlass in which myself and a friend put a Pontiac 400 from a 1969 GTO in. We rebuilt the engine together (we did everything but the machine work). I also redid the entire suspension with correct springs for the big block, polyurethane bushings, boxed rear control arms, a Cheetah shifter, Auto Meter gauges and many other modifications.

I currently own a 1968 Chrysler Newport with a big block 383 on which I installed Edelbrock aluminum heads, an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, a Speed Demon carb., MSD 6AL box with an MSD coil and MSD billet distributor, TTI headers, a pretty radical Purple Cam, etc. All of the body work is complete and I am currently getting the money together for supplies to paint it.

One of the side jobs I have is a neighbor's 1949 F1 pick up truck. I already completely disassembled the nose and pulled the 351 engine someone else had installed out of it. The engine cross member was a mess and the engine did not sit correctly in the car so I did a bit of measuring and test fitting and welded in a tubular engine cross member with my Lincoln mig welder. I also began welding in plates to the frame in order to box the frame in to stiffen it up. I have already disassembled and painted the front axle, springs, spring mounts, shock mounts, brake cable mounts, etc. I will be assembling this within the next few weeks along with a front disc brake conversion.

I am now retired on disability from my other profession and have been since 2006. I have been doing nothing but working on cars since. Today I repaired a ball joint and sway bar bushings on a 1997 Grand Marquis. In the next few days I will begin changing a catalytic converter on a 2002 Audi A4 Quattro with a 3.0 six cylinder engine. This entails removing the drive shafts, engine cross member, transmission cross member as well as numerous other parts since the only way to get at the catalytic converters is to lower the sub frame. I say this only to show that a mechanic who does side work nearly each day can be an actual mechanic. It is not as though all I do is brakes and tune ups. And yes, if I want to continue doing side work I do have to be professional and keep a good reputation.

With that all being said I will take back one thing I said in my post prior to this one. I do agree that there probably are a number of mechanics who would not want to work on a 1966 Volkswagen engine with a turbo mated to it. There are probably a number of mechanics who would not want to work on that engine without the turbo on it. I am sure there are a number of mechanics who have never worked on them before.
Well, in fairness to both you guys, while no doubt Steve's turbo bug is well-done, most modified cars out there are hacks, and if you are trying to make money turning wrenches, *in general*, you are better off sticking with dead stock cars or at least cars that the mods are not going to bother your work, like rebuilding the carb on a car that has headers (Although even here you can't count on the stock jetting to be right - but you could just rebuild it using the jets that are in the carb when it shows up at the shop...) I mean if you are trying to "make rate" it's easier to do with stock cars than someone's hot rod. Even I know that and I have never worked as a professional mechanic - worked for a while as a "rat" in a body shop, more to gain experience and learn than for the money...Getting back to the Honda, yeah, the point that trying to milk the last mile out of fuel filter and plugs is nuts is a good one. But at the same time stuff like transmission input shafts don't have a fixed service life so if it breaks you just replace it when it breaks.
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Old 11-21-2011, 08:24 PM
 
2 posts, read 5,490 times
Reputation: 10
My 93 Honda Accord stalls while driving. What caused this to happen?
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Old 11-21-2011, 08:27 PM
 
2 posts, read 5,490 times
Reputation: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by guimont View Post
My 93 Honda Accord stalls while driving. What caused this to happen?
After it stalled it wouldn't restart. very frustrating...Please help a single mother in need thank you
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Old 11-26-2011, 07:58 PM
 
Location: Chicago
38,707 posts, read 103,176,801 times
Reputation: 29983
Quote:
Originally Posted by guimont View Post
My 93 Honda Accord stalls while driving. What caused this to happen?
Quote:
Originally Posted by guimont View Post
After it stalled it wouldn't restart. very frustrating...Please help a single mother in need thank you
It could be anything from a bad battery cable connection (cheap/easy fix) to a bad fuel pump (not a cheap/easy fix). You'll need to have it looked over by a professional or someone with equivalent skill and resources. Your symptoms are too broad to get even a hint of what you're up against by asking on an internet forum.
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Old 11-28-2011, 01:15 AM
 
1 posts, read 2,721 times
Reputation: 10
Another great news about Ford is when Ford recently unveiled the 2013 Escape. The popular crossover SUV got a major update. Sleek new looks and more economical motor choices were among the highlights. To read more on the story, you can check it out here:
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'93 Honda Accord LX dies while driving-ford-kuga.jpg  
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Old 11-28-2011, 07:22 AM
 
Location: Chicago
38,707 posts, read 103,176,801 times
Reputation: 29983
Quote:
Originally Posted by joannaM View Post
Another great news about Ford is when Ford recently unveiled the 2013 Escape. The popular crossover SUV got a major update. Sleek new looks and more economical motor choices were among the highlights. To read more on the story, you can check it out here:
spam fail
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