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Hello, Well I had that home I have since closed on tested for radon level and it was 7.something and I was able to prevail upon the seller to correct this. Now I need a tenant month to month until my daughter at Vanderbilt can move from her current residence. So thanks for the info re radon and Tennessee!
I bought a house outside of Nashville. I have been here around 8 months. The former owner paid for a remediation of radon when I had the house tested and it came out at 18. An industrial hygenist that had done a mold test for me in a rental ended up doing the remediation. He promised to have the level below 4 in two weeks. Six months later he still didn't have it down. He suggested I get his air purification system, and after I did it went way down, to 1.8, over the summer. Recently it went way back up as the weather changed. The thermostat on the heater was broken (after he set it) and I had a heating company send a guy out. He saw the the radon remediation came from the crawl space, through the wall right under my bedroom window and then the intake for the 'fresh air,' for the air purification system and the whole system was 20 ft away from where the radon was being pushed out. When I spoke with the project manager, he told me that radon is like helium that it just goes poof, but he agreed with the heating professional who told me he always saw radon being vented up the side of the wall and onto the roof. A home inspector told me the same. I am having a lot of trouble with knowing if I should trust this company since they should have known and done that from the beginning. The level is at 9.7 and has been gradually going up. I have been coughing and my lungs have been hurting but they tell me that it isn't the radon. I have turned off the heat and the fans and tonight after reading up, I know that radon is heavier than the 'expert' told me. I presently have the doors and windows open....
I just need some guidance!
aspen
I'm not quite sure what was done but ventilation alone is not a good stand alone technique with a level of 18pCi/L. My rule of thumb is you might get a 50% reduction with an air exchange system.
Radon levels will almost always trend downward in the summer months. And will rise in the winter months which is consistent with your situation.
The best way to reduce radon in a building is to remove it before it enters the building. This involves sealing crawlspaces with a membrane and sealing penetrations and cracks in your cement floor. Then a fan is used to suck from beneath these areas through a vent system that exhausts the soil gases safely above the roof line.
Radon gas is not like helium which rises. Radon is heavier than air and is almost always more prevalent in lower levels of a building. But in the cooler months your furnace will distribute the radon more evenly throughout your home. Your symptoms are not from the radon gas but are consistent with some type of mold issue in the furnace ducts.
Unless the air quality guy was a certified radon mitigation contractor, he probably did it wrong. Sounds like even if he was, he did it wrong.
There are very exact measures that need to be done to install a radon mitigation system properly.
A system should bring the levels down to around 2 picocuries/liter
Location: Franklin, TN, Nashville, Spring Hill, Brentwood, Nolensville, Mt. Juliet, Middle TN, Williamson Co.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barking Spider
Unless the air quality guy was a certified radon mitigation contractor, he probably did it wrong. Sounds like even if he was, he did it wrong.
There are very exact measures that need to be done to install a radon mitigation system properly.
A system should bring the levels down to around 2 picocuries/liter
Obviously they try to get it down as low as they can, but 2 is a level that most mitigators shoot for. It's not a "cast in stone" number.
When I do tests on homes after a mitigation, the installer will usually tweak the system some if the EPA average is close to 4. My monitor takes readings every hour, so we look at the entire range of results as well as the final number.
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