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Old 12-16-2011, 12:06 PM
 
Location: Sunny SoCal
520 posts, read 3,920,748 times
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Looking to hang up some frames which I'm guessing weigh anywhere from 20-30lbs. For peace of mind, I was thinking about drilling straight into the stud so that I know these things are not coming down. Now if I wanted these frames evenly spaced, I'd need to hang on drywall instead.

Are these heavy duty anchors pretty safe to use? Anyone ever have a problem with not supporting the weight? Pretty much when I need to hang something heavy, I go straight to the studs. If it something light, I'll use a drywall anchor.
Never used an anchor on anything heavy before.

thoughts?
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Old 12-16-2011, 12:18 PM
 
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If you've got solid drywall to secure them in, they should be more than adequate for the task. I tend to "play it safe" too, and use a 50-lb rated anchor even if I'm only hanging a 10-lb item, and I've never had an issue. I've used the screw-in type anchors like EZ-anchors in most cases.
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Old 12-16-2011, 01:33 PM
 
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For "static load" type things (pictures,mirrors, display items) the screw-in devices or expanding hollow wall anchors ("molly bolts") will always work fine.

For any kind of "dynamic load" that involves things move, are tugged at, vibrate or even resonate (like speakers and large clocks) I would only use them as a LAST resort and even then only at about 1/4 of their max rated load. If the object being mounted is breakable or "safety related" in any way I strongly recommend opening up the wall, installing appropriate wood framing members as "blocking" and then re-drywalling.

For a 30 lb framed picture you ought to be OK with a "100 or 150 lb rated" expanding type anchors.


There is a kind of interlocking track-type product I have had EXCELLENT results -- with the "hangman" products they will hold ENORMOUSLY heavy mirrors and similar items: http://www.hangmanstore.com
They also sell a kind of "click lock" device that they call a "security key" that is AWESOME at keeping pictures / mirrors from sliding off kilter when hung. My SIL in CA tells me they have even kept items secure during earthquakes! Well worth the money.
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Old 12-16-2011, 01:55 PM
 
Location: Johns Creek, GA
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If your talkin' picture frames- either large cove/crown type or sculptured gold-leaf type, having this type of hanging hardware on the frame is a very good start-


These allow you to use two picture hooks per frame such as these-


A lot of frame shops and others still prefer using wire/cable for frames (I prefer to use the hooks directly to the frame hardware)- but you still need to use two hooks. I certainly see no advantage to wall anchors or mollies if your intent is just picture/painting frames. But there are several other types of "hanging systems"- like french cleats.
Check out this website for other possibilities:
Picture Hang Solutions: Hooks, Hangers, Wire, Hardware
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Old 12-16-2011, 02:23 PM
 
Location: Sunny SoCal
520 posts, read 3,920,748 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chet everett View Post
For "static load" type things (pictures,mirrors, display items) the screw-in devices or expanding hollow wall anchors ("molly bolts") will always work fine.
This will be a "static load", trying to hang a framed sports jersey.

So I went out and bought these two:

EZ Anchor Toggle Lock 100lbs

EZ Anchor Twist N Lock 75lbs

I should be OK with these, right?
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Old 12-16-2011, 03:39 PM
 
Location: Summerville, SC
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You will be fine with those.

Sent from my autocorrect butchering device.
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Old 12-16-2011, 04:37 PM
 
Location: Grosse Ile Michigan
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How new is your drywall? What thickness is it? Some of the newer houses have 3/8" drywall that I can stick my thumb right through. Those toggle locks will even pull through 1/2" drywall at times. The butterfly type bolt fasteners will give you a larger area to spread the load. These are spring loaded inserts that you push through a small hole and then they spring open inside the wall. You can tighten a bolt to pull them snug against the bac of the drywall. The larger the better. Do not over tighten them.


On the other hand, If you have 5/8" commercial type drywall, you can pretty much just stick screws right in it. With that, the toggle locks are just fine.

Wiht any drywal you need to try to find the seams, you do not want to put any kind of fastener right at, or in a drywall joint. It is pretty much guaranteed to pull out if you do.

If the thing you are haning is dear to you or if you live in earthquake prone place, it is better to remove the drywall, install a board between the studs to hang tou tiem on and replace the drywall. That is a bit extreme, but if it is something impotant to you and will hang there for a long time, it is worthhile to do it right.
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Old 12-16-2011, 04:48 PM
 
Location: Sunny SoCal
520 posts, read 3,920,748 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coldjensens View Post
How new is your drywall? What thickness is it? Some of the newer houses have 3/8" drywall that I can stick my thumb right through. Those toggle locks will even pull through 1/2" drywall at times.
Grrr... This is exactly what I don't wan to happen... the toggle locks pull through the drywall...

This is new drywall in a finished basement... 1/2" I want to say.
You would think I would know this as I put lugged over 80 sheets to the basement, LOL.

Maybe I'll just stick to my original plan then and go straight into a stud.
At least that will give me my peace of mind.
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Old 12-16-2011, 06:19 PM
 
Location: Lexington, SC
4,280 posts, read 12,669,028 times
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I have had good luck with E-Z Anchors. When drilling the pilot hole for such if I "hit" a wall stud then all the better as in use a screw. If a heavy/secure item (secure like wall mounted TV), then I use more E-Z Anchors then called for.
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Old 12-16-2011, 07:15 PM
 
Location: Summerville, SC
3,382 posts, read 8,650,120 times
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I was going to say when I worked commercial jobs, we actually mounted some hand rails with just butterfly style anchors and I have actually stood on them to work on emergency lights. And I am like 340 lbs.

Sent from my autocorrect butchering device.
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