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Old 04-18-2013, 12:07 PM
 
Location: Pie shape
5,700 posts, read 8,296,566 times
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Hello, forum posters - it's time for me to ask another weird question that shows how little I know about my house (bought last fall). Again I'm kind of embarrassed to be asking.

I had an exterminator treat my attic today (begone, smoky brown cockroach...es...) and he pointed out that my bathroom fan vents are improperly vented near my roof, and it's an opening for pests. I have an email out to a handyman, but I'm wondering if you could see what's wrong here (it looks wrong to me too, to have the duct just stop right there) and if this is simply a matter of me buying something at home depot and attaching it, or putting some screening over that hole.

The previous owner replaced the roof in April of last year - it has a ridgeline vent now but I don't think it used to.

Thanks!

One of my previous weird posts had to do with truss uplift - as a follow up now, now that the temps are in the 70s and 80s, my ceiling has lowered back to its prior spot.
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bathroom fan vents improperly placed near attic roof?-img_4436.jpg  
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Old 04-18-2013, 12:58 PM
QIS
 
864 posts, read 3,795,710 times
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Hi Norasmom,
As long as the opening in and above the roof is a proper vent pipe with a cap and screening, you will be fine. The vent pipes are OK the way they are. It kind of looks like a wide open, unflashed opening in the roof with no vent pipe from the picture you posted!
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Old 04-18-2013, 01:09 PM
 
Location: Cold Springs, NV
4,576 posts, read 9,076,201 times
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I disagree with the above post. 100% of the exhuast air should be force outside. As shown in the picture moisture would be allowed into the attic space. Some type of boot, and or plenum should be built, so that all air exhuasts to the exterior. To think adding moisture to the attic that would allow mold to grow is nuts.
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Old 04-18-2013, 10:03 PM
 
Location: Johns Creek, GA
11,877 posts, read 45,676,236 times
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Well, that's truly original!

Here's what you need-
Broan, Roof Vent Kit, RVK1A at The Home Depot - Mobile

If that current roof penetration isn't too big one of those vents can go there, then another for the other fan. With flex duct it should be as short as possible, or replace part of the run with hard pipe.
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Old 04-19-2013, 08:13 AM
QIS
 
864 posts, read 3,795,710 times
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I was posting in regards to the pest intrusion issue(s) in OP. In that regards, I would also add that there are min-max screen size opening requirements that help prevent screen clogging and larger bugs from getting in so it is not practical to try and restrict ALL bugs from entering: some are just too small either full grown or juveniles.
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Old 04-19-2013, 09:34 AM
 
Location: Boston Suburb
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Picture may be misleading, so is it a simple open hole in the roof? I'd think the vent pipes need to connect to the roof opening directly (not passively as it is now).
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Old 04-19-2013, 11:41 AM
 
Location: Texas
5,586 posts, read 11,837,023 times
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You didn't state when the house was built. Years back the bath vent didn't even have a discharge hose running anywhere- it vented straight into the attic. Then we were required to run it to a vented soffit. That caused icing issues up north so in 2006 IRC said it must be direct vented to the outside. Depending on when the house was built or when the fans were installed is what you have. It's not a code violation as the install would grandfathered. Today you would have to use a vent like K'ledgebuilder has linked or a soffit vent that is very similar in design. Here's the code for you:
Chapter 15 - Exhaust Systems

Years back we also had a requirement that the discharge hose length could not exceed 25ft and there was a penalty for any 90 degree turns. IRC now stipulates air volume at the vent so hose length is irrelevant as long as it meets air volume at the vent. Since you've apparently not had any issues with the current install, I wouldn't worry about it. It's been there how many years and it hasn't apparently effected anything....

In regards to the bugs, depending on your weather, it's usually far too hot for most bugs in the attic during the summer. It's not like there an abundance of food/water up there for them either. Most vent stacks like the H/W heater is not a 100% sealed pipe at the roof jack. The pipe pretty much is loose inside of it. It would be the same with a dryer vented thru the roof with metal tubing or a gas fired heater system.
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Old 04-19-2013, 12:58 PM
 
Location: Cold Springs, NV
4,576 posts, read 9,076,201 times
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1991 Uniform Building Code Chapter 12 1205 (c) 4th paragraph

In lieu of required openings for natural ventilation in bathrooms containing a bathtub or shower or combination thereof, laundry rooms, and similar rooms, a mechanical ventilation system connected to the outside capable of 5 air changes per hour shall be provided. The point of discharge of exhaust air shall be at least 3 feet from any opening into the building.

This has been code on the West coast for a long time. Anyone blowing moisture into an attic space that could possibly increase the moisture content above the allowed 20% in the framing lumber is a fool.
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Old 04-19-2013, 11:10 PM
 
Location: Texas
5,586 posts, read 11,837,023 times
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Quote:
Anyone blowing moisture into an attic space that could possibly increase the moisture content above the allowed 20% in the framing lumber is a fool.
You must live on a one man desert at that West Coast you talk about. Or do you have some magical moisture remover on every house. I bet K'ledgebuilder would like to have some of that in Georgia where the humidity stays high. I guess it never rains there either. Wow, what a place! And I thought Texas was hot and dry.
Just so you have a clue so you don't keep making a fool of yerself, most random length lumber is kiln dried at the plant to 21%, studs usually at 19%. By the time it's shipped and travels across the nation it may be sitting in or on a railroad car for 3 weeks, it has gained whatever the average humidity is. Air dried lumber is still being sold in a lot of markets as is green lumber. There is NO 20% allowed BS when it comes to lumber.

This message is being brought to you by the Past President of the Lumbermans Association. Yer welcome.
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Old 04-20-2013, 06:43 AM
 
Location: Cold Springs, NV
4,576 posts, read 9,076,201 times
Reputation: 4997
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrapperL View Post
You must live on a one man desert at that West Coast you talk about. Or do you have some magical moisture remover on every house. I bet K'ledgebuilder would like to have some of that in Georgia where the humidity stays high. I guess it never rains there either. Wow, what a place! And I thought Texas was hot and dry.
Just so you have a clue so you don't keep making a fool of yerself, most random length lumber is kiln dried at the plant to 21%, studs usually at 19%. By the time it's shipped and travels across the nation it may be sitting in or on a railroad car for 3 weeks, it has gained whatever the average humidity is. Air dried lumber is still being sold in a lot of markets as is green lumber. There is NO 20% allowed BS when it comes to lumber.

This message is being brought to you by the Past President of the Lumbermans Association. Yer welcome.
Trapper, I feel no need to berate any individual, but will point out when someone makes an incorrect statement. You were wrong about exhausting to the exterior, and I simply pointed that out.

As for moisture content in framing lumber I will let the industry speak for themselves.

The term "DRY" can be confusing in lumber terminology. In structural grades, "DRY" indicates a product was either kiln- or air-dried to a 19 percent or less moisture content level prior to surfacing. However, in appearance products (e.g. the FINISH and SELECT grades), "DRY" is defined in the Western Lumber Grading Rules as being a maximum of 15 percent MC and in these grades, 85 percent of the items will be shipped with a MC level of 12 percent or less.

Douglas Fir

Bottom line is that it is not wise too add moisture to the attic space when our main goal as builders is to remove moisture from structures. Not to mention that it is also a code violation that dates back more than 20 years at least under the jurisdiction of the UBC. As we know prior to the adoption of the nationwide ICC standard there were different code bodies in the US. I don't what code standard Texas used?
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