Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
How do I attach a 4"x4" wooden support to a concrete slab (our porch)? It’s load bearing because it has the porch roof/overhang on it. We’re changing the front of the porch so removing the middle support and putting once to each side (changing where we enter the porch). Questions: Can I secure the galvanized metal bracket in the bottom of the 4” x 4” with just a few Tapcon screws alone or do I have to drill into the slab and thread a bolt into the slab too? Thanks in advance.
You can use a Simpson ABU44 post base which will keep the post off of the concrete. You can fasten it with 4 tapcons or one single lag screw in the middle. You would drill the slab and hammer in a lead anchor and screw the lag bolt into it. The single allows you to move it around while installing the post so you can get it perfectly plumb. Once plumb, take a wrench and tighten it up. It's the easiest to install and get right. I would suggest screws rather than nails to secure the post to the flanges on the post base. We still install our post bases on a square of roofing felt to keep it semi-dry and so far haven't had any rust out. ABA/ABU/ABW Adjustable and Standoff Post Bases
You can use a Simpson ABU44 post base which will keep the post off of the concrete. You can fasten it with 4 tapcons or one single lag screw in the middle. You would drill the slab and hammer in a lead anchor and screw the lag bolt into it. The single allows you to move it around while installing the post so you can get it perfectly plumb. Once plumb, take a wrench and tighten it up. It's the easiest to install and get right. I would suggest screws rather than nails to secure the post to the flanges on the post base. We still install our post bases on a square of roofing felt to keep it semi-dry and so far haven't had any rust out. ABA/ABU/ABW Adjustable and Standoff Post Bases
This is a good post, I concur with this assessment. Whether you choose the drop in, or just a wedge anchor would be personal choice. I wouldn't build a dog house with Tapcons, but that's just my preference always having a Rotohammer available.
You can use a Simpson ABU44 post base which will keep the post off of the concrete. You can fasten it with 4 tapcons or one single lag screw in the middle. You would drill the slab and hammer in a lead anchor and screw the lag bolt into it. The single allows you to move it around while installing the post so you can get it perfectly plumb. Once plumb, take a wrench and tighten it up. It's the easiest to install and get right. I would suggest screws rather than nails to secure the post to the flanges on the post base. We still install our post bases on a square of roofing felt to keep it semi-dry and so far haven't had any rust out. ABA/ABU/ABW Adjustable and Standoff Post Bases
Good reply indeed.
NO Tapcons, use single lag and large washer. The strongtie has a little play(hole in the center is bigger than the lag bolt) so you can get it all lined up before the final tightening. Use a Plum-bob to mark the spot for drilling the lag hole.
Use screws, stainless ones preferred where weather is concerned. But they do break easily so if you use them be careful.
Hammer drills are fairly cheap to buy. If you need to do more than a few look into an SDS drill. The Harbor Freight version used to be available for around $50 and got excellent reviews online.
Will the ABW Simpson series work on a porch with a slight angle for shedding water? Will I need to cut the post at a slight angle to get maximum fit or will the Simpson handle a small amount of angle?
Will the ABW Simpson series work on a porch with a slight angle for shedding water? Will I need to cut the post at a slight angle to get maximum fit or will the Simpson handle a small amount of angle?
In your case, the ABU would be the better choice.
When you cut the post to match the angle of the sloping concrete you elongate one axis of the post. That will not allow an ABW to close around the post properly. Cutting the post to match the slope will give you a full bearing surface of the post to the connector.
Hammer drills are fairly cheap to buy. If you need to do more than a few look into an SDS drill. The Harbor Freight version used to be available for around $50 and got excellent reviews online.
I bought the Harbor Freight hammer drill because reviews were good, but the drill bit got stuck at about the third use. Didn't bother to replace it, because I didn't want a replacement crummy drill. I've had great luck with a reciprocating saw from Harbor Freight, though, so sometimes you can get lucky.
I ended up getting a Bosch hammer drill after that one, and I LOVE that thing. Wish I'd had it when I owned a slab on grade/cinderblock house, although it might have led me to drill ill-advised holes.
Oops. There I go replying to an old thread. Oh, well, people will read in the future.
Looks like it's best to rent a hammer drill and drop a lag bolt.....
You can get a Skil 1/2 hammer drill for about $60. My Brothers had one a for while now and he used it a lot. I bought one too and it's a done what I needed.
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.
Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
