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btw i thought it would be easier and faster to prepaint the casings/baseboards, then touch up after install. plus would be a bit easier on my back when doing baseboards.
I used a $7 or $8 brush that was made in the U.S. 2" angled. The lines aren't too bad on small pieces of trim, but they were horribly noticeable on the door.
btw i thought it would be easier and faster to prepaint the casings/baseboards, then touch up after install. plus would be a bit easier on my back when doing baseboards.
Here's the reason not to prepaint casings. The 3' rule says people only see between 4' to 7'. Only putting one coat over the casing will create a different sheen at the putty where the mitre's and nails are. Allowing two coats you have a better chance of hiding this. No one puts their head on the floor to care about the base. The three rules of construction, the right way, the wrong way, and a way to make it look good. We only care about the third rule.
I used a $7 or $8 brush that was made in the U.S. 2" angled. The lines aren't too bad on small pieces of trim, but they were horribly noticeable on the door.
An angle brush is referred to as a Sash brush. I used to have a boss who got excited when a new wax ring came out. Been in the trade more than 25 years before he taught me this.
I used a $7 or $8 brush that was made in the U.S. 2" angled. The lines aren't too bad on small pieces of trim, but they were horribly noticeable on the door.
What paint did you use, and did you overwork it?
Decent paint (ie not Glidden) will self level. Behr and above is decent mid-priced paint that will completely self level and not leave any strokes unless you overwork it.
btw i thought it would be easier and faster to prepaint the casings/baseboards, then touch up after install. plus would be a bit easier on my back when doing baseboards.
If you're going to paint before install get an airless and spray them if you have a lot of trim. HD sometimes runs 50% off sales on their sprayers. Only do this if you have a lot of trim though, as it requires almost a quart of paint to prime the lines.
I probably did overwork it, but that's why I like the roller better. I can get the paint on every bit of surface without overworking. My own brush work is bad enough that I can't cover all the spots in a couple of passes. That's also why I've learned to be careful not to put too much paint on at a time.
I won't mention the paint by name since I think it is more likely an issue of my own skill/taste in finish.
If you can get two 6 foot long tables together for painting it helps. I painted first then cut and nailed it in place when I had replaced the baseboards in the house. I would put the door casing in place first and then the baseboard however I wasn't confronted with that issue on my project. I did have to do two coats of paint however so those tables helped prevent bending over to paint on the floor of the garage.
I probably did overwork it, but that's why I like the roller better. I can get the paint on every bit of surface without overworking. My own brush work is bad enough that I can't cover all the spots in a couple of passes. That's also why I've learned to be careful not to put too much paint on at a time.
I won't mention the paint by name since I think it is more likely an issue of my own skill/taste in finish.
Look up "Flotrol" as well, that will help with leveling.
I replaced all my trim in my house years ago. Yes, do the casings first. You can also buy very long lengths of trim so that you have fewer joints. It's a hassle to get 16' pieces back from the store, but it's sure nice to eliminate joints in many rooms.
I supported the trim on top of saw horses for the paint job. I applied the paint quickly with a small foam roller then brushed it out with a small brush. Trim can be subject to a lot of abuse, so I like a rugged trim paint with at least two coats.
There are a variety of 'trim' paints on the market that self-level and it's easier to have them self-level when the trim is horizontal, prior to being installed. I've had great luck with Sherwin-Williams trim paint. As mentioned by someone else, Floetrol is a nice paint additive that helps with leveling too.
Yes, you still have to do touch up work, but I find it's easier to touch up my small patches over the nail holes than it is to initially paint all the trim when it's on the floor.
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