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Surely you have twenty or so OTHER things to do...
things that actually *need* to be done... right?
I know this was (is) a harsher than usual winter, but I'm uncomfortable with the ice-damming, and want to avoid leaks if I can. So, this project climbs the list a little bit. But, even if I'm not going to tackle this project immediately, that doesn't mean I can't start gathering ideas ahead of time.
Quote:
Originally Posted by K'ledgeBldr
2X6 is pretty standard.
The thing with insulating sloped ceilings/walls is not only having enough insulation but also enough room for an air baffle. So, you have to add a 2" rip to all rafters that will be part of the finished area. Install baffle, R-19 batt, then d/wall. If you want to squeeze a little more R-value in with some better air tightness- apply 1/2 foam board BEFORE the drywall, tape all the seams, and caulk all the bottom plate.
Kneewalls should have at least R-19, but R-30 is better. Any area that will remain "attic"/unfinished or unconditioned will need insulation on the "floor"- the ceiling of the space below. If there is flooring, it will need to come up.
This is what was so attractive about the spray foam insulation; the higher R-value per inch. (for those who don't know, look at the graph at the bottom of this page: Insulation R Value Chart -)
Instead of taking up the floor in areas that would remain unfinished, to insulate between the joists of the ceiling/floor, why not just lay insulation on the attic floor? (as long as I have an air baffle where that insulation meets the roof)
Quote:
Originally Posted by QIS
Hi JR_C
Are you SURE that's paneling? I looks like some sort of thin button board or something with wall paper over it. Drywall and insulation will add a LOT of weight to that old framing!!!
I'm calling that stuff paneling in a generic way; I don't know what it is. (I do know it's not wood) I think you make a good point about weight, though. I'd be just as happy using some of that thin bead board paneling you can get at the big box stores, instead of fully finished drywall.
This is what was so attractive about the spray foam insulation; the higher R-value per inch.
As perviously mentioned- expanding foam and skip decking roofs don't really go together. The expanding foam can expand right through the gaps and push the shingles up. And if you have ice damming, and other weather related problems with your roof being able to spot them relatively quickly is a good thing- if the rafter cavities are full of foam you may not know you have a problem for months, even years.
Instead of taking up the floor in areas that would remain unfinished, to insulate between the joists of the ceiling/floor, why not just lay insulation on the attic floor? (as long as I have an air baffle where that insulation meets the roof).
Insulation has to be AGAINST the surface (ceiling) of the conditioned space. Your scenario would leave an air gap (the joist cavity) and that gap is "connected" to the exterior wall (intersection of wall, joist, and rafter). This is the critical area that needs insulation to help prevent and or eliminate ice damming.
You might tackle this in phases. I assume your local building codes call for at least R-32 in the roof, and of course you won't get that inside without lowering the ceilings. Insulation is also problematic in buildings not designed for it. If you chill the shiplap layer, you might get condensation that will rot your attic framing. The photo of the uninsulated room doesn't show any roof pots for ventilation, and you will need to add those. The rule is: seal the warm side and vent the cold side. Every rafter space will need a vent at the eave and one at the peak, which pretty much means a continuous vent at the peak.
The suggestion to add a couple inches to the wood and install R-19 (6" batt) would work. That would get you started and is better than nothing. When you replace the roof, plan on adding insulating sheathing. 4" or 6" of bead board under the shingles would get you there. I would have to think hard about how that would work with the ventilation. With that much insulation outside the framing, condensation might not be a problem. Of course, you would need new trim boards at eaves and gables to cover the bead board.
Inside, take the wood down and replace it with drywall. Un-backed wood paneling is a fire department's nightmare. Drywall is very flame retardant, and would give them a fighting chance at saving the house in case of fire. Also, plan your wiring before the insulation goes in. Install plenty of wall plugs, light fixtures, and a circuit for summer AC if you want it to be habitable. If you want to rent the space out, think about a small bath. I couldn't tell where the vent stacks from the main floor come up, but usually you install the second floor bath right above the first floor bath.
You also need to replace the windows with energy efficient units. That will be expensive if you want to maintain the period look of the existing windows.
Ah, the joys of home ownership. I just finished updating my house, which is only 40 years old. It was quite a project.
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