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" MY Reality and my own forty years of direct experience with it." That's what I thought...simply not good enough when there is an issue or a any need for expertise.
The case law has a LOT to do with plumbing and almost all phases of buildings and standards of care.
The OP and the city are lucky that a hose was not blown off an angle stop valve and the house was flooded!
Near the water meter, on your side of the line, there is probably a pressure reducing valve. It will look like a metal bell, something like this: Watts Water Pressure Reducing Valve Series 25AUB-Z3 3/4" (0069717) at PlumberSurplus.com You can examine it for the manufacturer's name or the valve model and look up instructions on adjusting it. It takes a wrench and a few minutes. Or you can call a plumber and have them do the same thing for the cost of a service call, plus whatever parts they decide you need. They can also measure the pressure and set it to exactly the right pressure, but if you do it yourself then you'll have to go back in the house and turn the shower on and decide if that's the right amount of pressure, and possibly fiddle with it for a while to get it just right. There is the chance that the valve needs to be replaced, in which case you would probably need a plumber, unless you're comfortable doing plumbing work yourself.
Whatever you do, don't leave it too high for a long time, it will drastically affect your water bill, and if you're in a winter averaging period, it will give you a higher bill all year long. I learned that one the hard way. Hubby thought it was great when we suddenly had more water pressure and it took two months to convince him it was a problem.
My Static Pressure is 180 pounds and has been since day one... hill area.
None of the homes had regulators at the time of construction... 1950's.
This was also before Water Heater relief valves and plastic plumbing products... everything was metal... mostly bronze or copper.
I've installed several regulators on the block because the new toilet valves, plastic sprinkler valves and fixtures simply cannot take the pressure.
My best guess is your pressure had not changed... instead, air trapped in the system compressed and opening the valves can be like small explosions as the gas escapes.
Pipes rattle, fixtures fail, people have even had heart attacks...
Anything over 70 is considered excessive... I'm perfectly happy with 50 psi and at the home with well water I run 40... everything lasts longer.
As a sidebar... neighbors left for their 50th anniversary trip... water company had a bad leak in a main and did emergency repair work a block away... the couple flushed the toilet just before leaving and thought it was going to explode... plus it shook violently.
Left for a week and returned home to buckled floors and damaged drywall... the toilet couldn't deal with the compressed air and no one was home.
City denied the claim... home owner insurance paid... what a mess.
Hey there - a big thank you to all the replies and the PM.
Our house is about 5 years old, and we live in Miami (so no hills). We live in an older established area where the homes were originally built in the 50's and 60's. City plumbing is old too - we have a septic tank. I thought it was odd that the city worker said that outside our house is the only water valve for the rest of the houses on our block.
I'm not savvy on plumbing or water issues - so thanks for all the comments - I will reread, and try to figure out if we have a pressure reducing valve.....
1) Go to a hardware store to buy or borrow a HOSE BIB pressure gauge LINK
Use that to KNOW what the actual pressure is.
1a) If 70psi or lower... put the shower sprayer back on more securely and take a nap.
1b) If it is higher than 70psi... go deeper.
2) Find the main water valve AT or INSIDE the house.
Nearby it will (should) be a reducing valve if one is there.
If you find it... take a picture and post it here.
If you can't find one... call the plumber your handiest friend recommends.
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