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In theory, an electrical outlet should be dropping little if any power. But the truth is, all of those connections at the outlet, and the actual load that is plugged into the outlet, will cause a power drop.....this is converted to heat....enough heat will end up melting things. With a defective outlet, you really would not need an overload for it to get hot.
If the wire is running horizontally through the wall, go back to the next stud, install junction box on stud, run new length of wire. Put blank plate on J-box.
Great advice! I cut back to the next and installed the junction ran new wire and capped off
box with blank just as you said and it worked out perfectly. Look very professional and I feel
good knowing it was a safe repair.
I had the Arc-Fault breaker install on that particular circuit. He performed the megger test on the insulation
and he said it was within specs (whatever the heck that means). Something about Mega Ohms. Anyway,
thank you for the great advice. Two about post saved me a bunch of time and money and gave me a sense
of accomplishment knowing I effected a professional and safe repair!
How do you identify AFCI vs non AFCI? My primary residence was just completed last November, so I assume it's got AFCI. My winter house was built in 2005, so not sure about it.
Some of the discussion is off a bit. This outlet almost certain had an internal flaw. Something left in it that provided a conductive path. May or may not have involved an arc. It therefore may not trip an AFCI breaker. This is a rare but certain possible failure. The only real defense is to have it contained in a fire proof enclosure.
We like to believe all things are protectable but it is simply not true. Sometimes you are down to the flammability of the circuit box.
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