switch from gas stove to electric? (heat, stoves, appliance, conversion)

[summers19]

I've had both kinds of stoves and ovens and prefer electric. We are currently looking at houses for sale in the Chicago area and notice that virtually all houses have gas stoves. Is there a way to convert to electric? We want to buy an electric stove for the house we purchase. Would the gas company just come out a cap the line? Does anyone know how this would work?
Thanks.

[escapetacoma]

Originally Posted by summers19

I've had both kinds of stoves and ovens and prefer electric. We are currently looking at houses for sale in the Chicago area and notice that virtually all houses have gas stoves. Is there a way to convert to electric? We want to buy an electric stove for the house we purchase. Would the gas company just come out a cap the line? Does anyone know how this would work?
Thanks.

If it's a good gas stove give me a shout! I've got an electric that's going to be available - probably worth the trip to Chicago to make a trade. Beyond the fact that I much, MUCH, MUCH prefer gas our electric service panel is pretty much maxed out and the heat pump that we're getting set up for the attic apparently needs 240v so I had the bright idea of ditching the 240v line that our current stove is on... not that I was looking for an excuse to go back to gas, you understand

[wastina]

We're also doing the conversion from gas to electric, but working backwards from the difficulty of finding the gas line, my sense is that your understanding is correct. Have the gas company (or perhaps just a very good handyman) disconnect the line, find an electric model you like, and Plug and Play (or cook!)

[motormaker]

Originally Posted by wastina

We're also doing the conversion from gas to electric, but working backwards from the difficulty of finding the gas line, my sense is that your understanding is correct. Have the gas company (or perhaps just a very good handyman) disconnect the line, find an electric model you like, and Plug and Play (or cook!)

Only if you have the proper electrical service the stove requires.

[NorthmeetsSouth]

Pull the stove out and look behind it. Depending on how old the house is, most builders put a 220 line behind the range just in case. Also, the gas line behind it should have a cut-off valve right on it, so there is no need to have it capped. If you haven't picked a house yet and are still looking, try looking at the electric service panel. Some homeowners might get a little funny about you pulling their stove out. If they have a double breaker in the service panel and if it is labeled "range" then there is most likely a line there and all you have to do is plug in your new range.

[RoaminRed]

Originally Posted by NorthmeetsSouth

Pull the stove out and look behind it. Depending on how old the house is, most builders put a 220 line behind the range just in case. Also, the gas line behind it should have a cut-off valve right on it, so there is no need to have it capped. If you haven't picked a house yet and are still looking, try looking at the electric service panel. Some homeowners might get a little funny about you pulling their stove out. If they have a double breaker in the service panel and if it is labeled "range" then there is most likely a line there and all you have to do is plug in your new range.

Darn, I keep getting beat to the punch today! LOL Yes, what this poster said is exactly right. And if you do pull out the stove and there is NOT a cut-off valve, it's a code violation (at least, everywhere I've lived it would be).

[Ultrarunner]

To be safe, code requires a cap on the outlet side of the valve.

In CA, PGE will provide the cap for free or you can get one from your hardware store for a couple of bucks.

As long as you have room in the electric panel to add a 220v 50 amp breaker... the rest is just running the cable and adding the proper outlet.

The last one I did cost about $125 in materials... (Circuit Breaker, #6 Romex Cable, Cable Clamps and 50 Amp Outlet)

[RoaminRed]

Originally Posted by Ultrarunner

To be safe, code requires a cap on the outlet side of the valve.

In CA, PGE will provide the cap for free or you can get one from your hardware store for a couple of bucks.

As long as you have room in the electric panel to add a 220v 50 amp breaker... the rest is just running the cable and adding the proper outlet.

The last one I did cost about $125 in materials... (Circuit Breaker, #6 Romex Cable, Cable Clamps and 50 Amp Outlet)

Ah, thanks for that tip about the cap. I just disconnected a gas appliance last weekend and thought that the inline shutoff valve was sufficient. Easy enough to rectify, thanks again!

[summers19]

Thanks to everyone for their sage advice. We are in the beginning process of looking to buy a house. We have a few more months to make a decision. We just sold our house in Virginia and are renting now in the Chicago area so we can get a good feel for the area before we buy.