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Old 02-18-2008, 07:42 AM
443 posts, read 1,560,138 times
Reputation: 369


For the last few months now I've been having problems with my Automatic Garage door. The door closes about the 3/4 of the way and then pops back up.

I have cleared the sensors and made sure they were aligned properly and it seemed to get better but then the problem seemed to come back. I normally have to hit the button to close the door about 3 to 4 times to get it all the way down. Also the problem seems to be when its a little cooler outside.

I have read where RPM sensor could be the problem. Anyone know how I can check this? Is there anything else that I can check as well?
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Old 02-18-2008, 09:00 AM
Location: Holly Springs
3,842 posts, read 9,080,394 times
Reputation: 2939
there are down force adjustment knobs on the back of the unit. it may be set too sensitive causing it to revert back to open when it meets some minor resistance on the track. adjust the knob and have someone at the button until it is dialed in.
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Old 02-18-2008, 09:11 AM
782 posts, read 3,395,211 times
Reputation: 398
Try to use wd40 on the track also.
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Old 02-18-2008, 09:18 AM
Location: South Dakota
733 posts, read 4,002,807 times
Reputation: 706
For now adjust the closing force so it goes down and stays down - as noted by the previous poster. The underlying problem MAY be somebody over lubricating the tracks with grease that gets stiff when it gets cold. Or doing the same to the drive chain [if you have an opener with a drive chain]. When it warms up, the grease/lubricant becomes softer and things work fine. So, in the spring clean the tracks/chain etc. well, get the old lubricant/grease out, and relubricate with whatever the manufacturer recommends - usually white lithium grease which remains more "pliable" at low temperatures.
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Old 02-18-2008, 11:00 AM
25,073 posts, read 48,047,727 times
Reputation: 18197
Default Check Door Movement with Operator Unlatched.

It's a common problem to have in the wet rainy season where I live... the door frame and/or the door (if you have a wood door) is affected by the moisture.

Moisture problems can be the result of the wood swelling and therefore binding or the door may have absorbed a lot of water increasing the weight.

Have you tried unlatching the door from the operator track? The door should move easily throughout the full range of motion without binding or feeling extremely light or heavy...

Adjusting the motor to overcome problematic door operation is only a temporary fix at best...
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Old 04-25-2010, 02:07 PM
1 posts, read 45,882 times
Reputation: 16
There are two sensors, one on each side, below the door. Check carefully that lense/sensor is not blocked by its holder. Keep that lens/sensor clean and unobstructed. That is what we had. I had to close garage everytime manually. We cleaned the garage two week earlier. By reading some of the posts here I gotsome idea. May be during cleanig we hit the sensor and it got obstructed by its own holder? That is what exactly was the problem.
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Old 04-25-2010, 02:45 PM
Location: Knoxville
4,096 posts, read 19,110,842 times
Reputation: 4648
You can check to see if its a tracking problem or an opener problem very easy.
Pull the emergency disconnect cord to release the door from the opener track. See if it goes up and down easily. You can also check the door spring tension by closing the door to about 3 feet from the floor, and let go.
If the door is properly balanced, it should pretty much stay where you let go. It might drop an inch or two, but if it stays in the same position without going back up, or crashing down, then its balanced. If the door crashes down to the floor, then you need to have the spring tension adjusted.

OK, so if the door tracks smoothly, then the problem is with the opener. Most of the time, the sensors will not stop it part way down.

The downforce adjustment is the first place to check (as someone else suggested).
Sometimes its the circuit board in the opener thats gone whack, and it then needs professional help. If you have had thunderstorms and lightning, it may have got to the circuit board.
Try the downforce first.
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Old 12-04-2011, 06:29 PM
1 posts, read 36,093 times
Reputation: 20
Additional info requested on garage door not closing. I have the same problem with door not closing. I can only close the door if I am in the garage and continuously hold the garage door button until the door is completely closed. In the past I have noticed that one of the lights on the sensors was not illuminated. After jiggling the wire to the sensor the light would come back on and problem solved. Now I have noticed when I have the garage door does not shut that both sensor lights are on and if I try to use my car remote all I here is a clicking noise coming from the garage door opener. So, my question is can the problem still be in the sensors or is the problem in the main unit of the garage door? Any help is greatly appreciated.
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Old 12-05-2011, 07:15 AM
Location: Johns Creek, GA
11,391 posts, read 43,817,961 times
Reputation: 12204
Openers don't have a reset button- unplug the unit and leave it unplugged for 15-20mins. Then plug it back in. Sensors do go bad and all the major manufacturers sell sensor kits.
The one with the red light is the transmitter, green is the receiver. So, a simple troubleshooting diagnoses- if the red one is the one that not illuminated it could possibly be the circuit board in the motor unit. If the green light is out- more than likely it's the sensors.
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Old 12-05-2011, 05:35 PM
Location: Lexington, SC
4,281 posts, read 10,009,315 times
Reputation: 3695
My advice (and much outlined by earlier posters):

1. Lubricate the garage door runners. WD-40 not the best as it can eat paint if not used properly. Buy a spray garage door lubricant runner product at local hardware place.

2. Disconnect the garage door from the automatic opener and be sure it easily sildes up and down manually.

3. Check the balance at various points.

4. If all the above are OK, then adjust the downward pressure switch.

As aside story but might be relevent.

After much discussion (husband and wife, as in her bytching at me that the garage door opener was not working properly), we figured out that the remote auto garage door control in my car (original with the garage door system) works just fine. I only have to press once and it works as it should.

The remote control in her car (after market) must be pressed and held down for a bit for it to work. If hers is pressed quickly (as in not held down briefly) and released, the door will start as it should (up or down) then reverse.

The garage door control wall switch in the garage (original equipment) works perfectly.

I swapped remote controls with her and "my problem" went away.....LOL
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