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Old 09-19-2016, 03:20 PM
 
Location: Cypress, CA
936 posts, read 2,081,618 times
Reputation: 1162

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I installed a 72W LED light into a ceiling light fixture that is connected to a sliding dimmer switch that has no on-off switch. Initially it worked but after turning it off, I can't turn it back on again. Sometimes when I turn it on there is a very quick flicker of light but it doesn't last more than a second. Do you think the switch is the issue? I am thinking about changing the switch to a simple on-off switch.

The LED light has its own remote control where you can changing the color and/or intensity so I don't really need the dimmer switch.

The LED light is shown without the cover.

Thanks,

Attached Thumbnails
LED and sliding dimmer switch - compatibility issue?-led.jpg  

Last edited by jimmybirdie; 09-19-2016 at 03:30 PM..
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Old 09-19-2016, 03:28 PM
 
106,654 posts, read 108,810,853 times
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leds can not use a conventional dimmer
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Old 09-19-2016, 03:34 PM
 
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As MJ107 said, you need dimmers that are compatible / designed to do LEDs. Dimmers older than about 5 years won't work very well if at all.

If you go to your local hardware supplstore / lighting store, the dimmer packaging should say if the dimmers are LED compatible or not.
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Old 09-19-2016, 04:08 PM
 
6,738 posts, read 2,908,672 times
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The lights are 12v and require a 12v dimmer switch after the power supply, or after the voltage has been reduced to 12v. If you want to use a 110v dimmer on the wall, you must use a special power supply, called a dimmable driver(power supply), that will works on 110v and reduces it to 12v. Then you can use a 110v wall dimmer switch, but not with a fixed power supply.
I would have to know how you have it wired but it appears you are using a 110v dimmer switch on the wall, and attempting to lower the voltage to your fixed power supply. That won't work, to do it like that you must use either a dim-able driver, or a 12v dimmer installed after the power supply. One or the other, they are mutually exclusive..
Check with hitlights...

Last edited by Grumpy ol' Man; 09-19-2016 at 04:18 PM..
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Old 09-19-2016, 09:33 PM
 
Location: Wasilla, AK
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You need to ensure your LED lights are dimmer compatible. It will tell you right on the box. I have some bulbs that are dimmer compatible and some that aren't.
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Old 09-19-2016, 10:19 PM
 
6,738 posts, read 2,908,672 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlaskaErik View Post
You need to ensure your LED lights are dimmer compatible. It will tell you right on the box. I have some bulbs that are dimmer compatible and some that aren't.
You are correct if talking about LED light bulbs, but the OP pictures LED light strips and all are dimmable, just depends on if you are dimming them at the 12v side or the 110v side of the power supply.
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Old 09-20-2016, 07:00 AM
 
28,455 posts, read 85,361,596 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grumpy ol' Man View Post
You are correct if talking about LED light bulbs, but the OP pictures LED light strips and all are dimmable, just depends on if you are dimming them at the 12v side or the 110v side of the power supply.
GOM is probably correct, if the OP wishes to have a hardwired wall switch they would need to splice the wires after the LED driver into a 12V dimmer and then run wire from the switch back to the LED wiring. Such dimmers do exist -- 12V PWM Dimmer with Slider & On/Off Switch

Since the OP already has a remote to control the fixture I have to wonder if perhaps the driver has already been damaged by misuse of a 120V dimmer. Sometimes supplying insufficient power to such a driver will kill it ... Such changes are not generally recommended without consultation with the manufacturer.

10 things you MUST know before you dim LED lamps | Lux Magazine | Luxreview.com | Americas | Home page

https://www.1000bulbs.com/pdf/unders...ed-drivers.pdf
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Old 09-20-2016, 12:32 PM
 
Location: Cypress, CA
936 posts, read 2,081,618 times
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Hi All,

The seller thinks that the LED driver is bad and offered to send me a replacement. She told me that if the LED light fails, it is usually the driver 90% of the time. I told her to hold off until I figure out what is actually wrong. The seller says that the LED driver mounted in the fixture should reduce the 120V power to 12 V and I don't need a special dimmer. Is this true?

Since my Dimmer Switch is probably over 5 year old. I bought a new LED compatible dimmer switch shown in the image and installed it. The lights were on immediately but then went off by itself after one minute and can't be turn on again. 10 minutes later, I flipped the switch about 10 times and then the lights went on again only to went off about 1 minute later.

Since the lights come on intermittently, can I assume that the driver is not burnt?

Should I try the 12V PWM Dimmer with Slider & On/Off Switch? Against the advice of the seller, I am not sure how technical she is. I can't find this Dimmer at Home Depot so I will have to buy it online.



Thanks,
Attached Thumbnails
LED and sliding dimmer switch - compatibility issue?-switchpost1.jpg   LED and sliding dimmer switch - compatibility issue?-lightpost1.jpg  
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Old 09-20-2016, 01:02 PM
 
6,738 posts, read 2,908,672 times
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Again, I go back to the fact that your driver does not appear to be a dimmable driver, so it can't work with the 110v dimmer. The new dimmer you picture looks to be the same one I am using, but it must be used in conjunction with a dimmable driver, it won't work with a fixed power driver.
"The seller says that the LED driver mounted in the fixture should reduce the 120V power to 12 V and I don't need a special dimmer. Is this true?"
Yes your driver will reduce the power from 110/120v down to 12, but if you want to use that driver, you have to use a 12v dimmer installed after the power supply, not a 110v dimmer before the power supply.
I wanted a dimmable driver for my under cabinet sights, so I had bright lights for food prep, and then turn them dow lower for mood lights after dinner. My over cabinet lights are not dimmable because I just wanted a pleasant glow about the cabinets. My over cabinet lights are Lumina5, not real bright, my under cabinet lights are Lumina 10HD, the HD meaning twice as many LEDs per foot, really bright, so the dimmer was ideal
Call your supplier tech support and ask them if that driver is designed to work with a 110 dimmer switch.
My parts were supplied by a different company, and I had the same problem originally, they send me a fixed voltage power supply that looks like the one you have. It wouldn't work until they send be a dimmable driver. They look completely different and the dimmable driver is several times more cost.
From the company that supplied mine;
Dimmable Drivers
LED power supplies are used to power LED light strips, LED light bars, LED modules and LED lighting products in general. Picking the correct LED power source for your products is very important. Our 12V LED Dimmable Drivers allow you to install up to 150 watts of our low-voltage LED light strips while using a common 120V dimmer switch.
Need help selecting the perfect power source for your LED light strips, bars or modules? Contact customer service directly, customerservice@hitlgihts.com, and they would be happy to assist you in your selection process.
Our American Made Dimmable Drivers replace traditional 12V Power Supplies when you plan on using a 110V Wall Dimmer Switch. They provide elegant and reliable dimming to our single color LED Light Strips and are available rated up to 300 Watts.
Hooking up a Dimmable Driver is a little more involved than using a regular power supply. Our Customer Service team is available to answer any questions you might have at 1-855-768-4135 or customerservice@hitlights.com

Picture of fixed voltage P/S


Picture of dimmable P/S


I would imagine the look may vary depending on the company that made them, but probably not too far off.
I was unable to find anyone anywhere in my area who had a clue about such things, so I learned everything the hard way..
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Old 09-20-2016, 01:45 PM
 
Location: Cypress, CA
936 posts, read 2,081,618 times
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Thank you for your detail explanation. I think I have a dimmable driver, since I was able to dim the lights with the remote control when it was on for about one minute.

Sorry but my understanding of electronics is very weak. But I am confused with:
Quote:
Yes your driver will reduce the power from 110/120v down to 12, but if you want to use that driver, you have to use a 12v dimmer installed after the power supply, not a 110v dimmer before the power supply.
If the driver can use a 120V input, why do I need a 12V dimmer between power and driver?

Here is my driver:

Input AC 180-240V, IS THIS THE PROBLEM HERE? Did they sent me one designed for 220V areas?
Output: DC 96-123V - Why is it so high? Much more than the 12 V you typically see?

I contacted the seller, in China, asking her to send me a driver that can handle 100V to 240V input.

My wife, at home, told me that the lights came back on and have been on for 30 minutes. Very bright. Weird stuffs.

Thanks.
Attached Thumbnails
LED and sliding dimmer switch - compatibility issue?-driver.jpg  

Last edited by jimmybirdie; 09-20-2016 at 02:29 PM..
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