Another question... sod

[pepe1]

Originally Posted by Driller1

Always?? No, it would depends on how deep the wells are in the area, screened or not, and how far the property is from the road, or waterline. I have drilled many wells were city water is available.

I have no doubt that there are instances where a well system is a more economical system to operate considering life cycle operating costs - But those are the exceptions and not the rule and I'm sure the original poster doesnt want to hear about the one in a million case sceanrio.

[Driller1]

Originally Posted by pepe1

I have no doubt that there are instances where a well system is a more economical system to operate considering life cycle operating costs - But those are the exceptions and not the rule and I'm sure the original poster doesnt want to hear about the one in a million case sceanrio.

Since I do not know the specs., I could not attest to the odds. I will assume you can.

[kcam213]

Originally Posted by K'ledgeBldr

Pricing of an irrigation system is different across the country- you may want to post your question(s) in your local forum. But I can tell you this- your system would be more $$ than the same system here in the south because your system requires stem valves (or the like) for evacuating the system in the winter. And possibly an initial deeper install depth. That's not a requirement here- frost line is 6".
Installing sod is nothing more than back breaking physical labor. It's the prep work needed for the site that can kill you.
Overall, I'd say you were quoted a very reasonable price.

Thanks
I will post in local forum. sounds like I made a mistake. I just signed purchase agreement this weekend and I may not be able to add this option even though they I am sure haven't even pulled permits. My contigency is still pending.
nearly 4k added to the price of the house seems so steep. I thought I could do some of the no brainer (albeit physically taxing) work myself to save a few bucks. It sounds like the sprinkler system itself will cost almost 4k.

[Driller1]

Originally Posted by kcam213

Thanks
I will post in local forum. sounds like I made a mistake. I just signed purchase agreement this weekend and I may not be able to add this option even though they I am sure haven't even pulled permits. My contigency is still pending.
nearly 4k added to the price of the house seems so steep. I thought I could do some of the no brainer (albeit physically taxing) work myself to save a few bucks. It sounds like the sprinkler system itself will cost almost 4k.

In Michigan you have three business days to withdraw on any contract. Check in your state.

[achtungpv]

When I bought St Augustine sod last year it was $125 a pallet - I think ~400 sq ft per pallet. Install was I think $50 more a pallet but seriously there's nothing easier than laying sod if you don't mind getting dirty. Delivery was a flat $75 for however much I bought.

[jenn02674]

I have a pretty small lot but my dad layed down my sod. I think it took 2 pallets if I remember correctly and we ended up seeding two small sections on the sides of the house. It is backbreaking work but certainly doable. The individual pieces of sod is pretty heavy.

My only advice is to do lots and lots of research on laying sod in your area BEFORE you do it. I know so many people that lose about 3/4s of their sod even when layed by professionals simply because they haven't prepared the ground underneath properly.

[kcam213]

thanks for your help. I was able to add sod and sprinklers to my options.

It seemed to me that sprinklers with the different zones would cost nearly 3k and then with the sod... I am sure I would be up to 3700 or over.

The builder will then have to guarantee the sod for a period of time provided that I water it properly... which is another good reason for the sprinklers.

I never realized how time consuming it would be to have to move the sprinklers to different areas of the lawn... etc.

With a sprinkler, I can set the timer for 3 x per week for about 10 minutes during the night hours and water the lawn. If I install a separate meter (which I plan to do), it will save on water since I will pay lower rate that will exclude the unneeded sewer charge.

I picked up a part time job to save for the extra options so that my payments will remain a payment that I am confortable with.

[golfgal]

Originally Posted by kcam213

thanks for your help. I was able to add sod and sprinklers to my options.

It seemed to me that sprinklers with the different zones would cost nearly 3k and then with the sod... I am sure I would be up to 3700 or over.

The builder will then have to guarantee the sod for a period of time provided that I water it properly... which is another good reason for the sprinklers.

I never realized how time consuming it would be to have to move the sprinklers to different areas of the lawn... etc.

With a sprinkler, I can set the timer for 3 x per week for about 10 minutes during the night hours and water the lawn. If I install a separate meter (which I plan to do), it will save on water since I will pay lower rate that will exclude the unneeded sewer charge.

I picked up a part time job to save for the extra options so that my payments will remain a payment that I am confortable with.

A tip from our lawn guy, you are better off watering for a longer time less frequently, so a half-hour once/week is better then 3 blasts for 10 minutes each. It helps the root system develop better or something along that line. I know that we took his advice last summer and our lawn looked GREAT when all of our every other day watering neighbors had burned out lawns in August.

[K'ledgeBldr]

Originally Posted by golfgal

A tip from our lawn guy, you are better off watering for a longer time less frequently, so a half-hour once/week is better then 3 blasts for 10 minutes each. It helps the root system develop better or something along that line. I know that we took his advice last summer and our lawn looked GREAT when all of our every other day watering neighbors had burned out lawns in August.

DITTO!
1" per week. Do the tuna can thing. Save 4-5 tuna cans and place them in several different areas of the yard. Run the system until the tuna cans are full- That's your running time, once a week (during the growing season).
The deeper the watering, the deeper the roots. The deeper the roots, the more drought tolerant the grass.
If your shrubs are on a zone alone- they should only need about 1/2" per week.